urgent: chevy brake bleeding question
 

Girlfriends '97 chevy malibu is leaking brake fluid from the left rear drum's bleed port. There is no bleed nipple just a rubber plug. I did not remove the plug but I am curious as to how its removed so I can I guess go buy bleed nipples for it.

anyone? The plug doesn't unscrew and I don't want to yank it out unless someone else can verify that is how its removed. You never know with these things.

thanks guys

Not familiar with the Malibu, but typically the bleeder is located on the backing plate next to where the brake line enters.

Rubber plug lower on the plate should be a cover for the adjustment wheel.

If it's leaking fluid, chances are it needs a new cylinder.

I took the wheel off and the drum and the rubber plug I found was just a plug. The bleeder is where you said it would be.

I had Megan pump the brakes and fluid squirted out of the wheel cylinder. So I think I found the problem. I think I am going to have to replace both left and right rear(this is on the right)

Plus might as well do the pads and drums since they probably have never been done.

I've never worked with drum brakes.... help?

Always do one side of a drum brake a a time. You need the other as a guide on how to put it back together. I've done a lot of drums, they're a PITA - may as well put in new shoes while you're at it as you have to disassemble most all of it to get at the cylinder.

It's all pretty straightforward, but do yourself a huge favor and complete one side before taking apart the other. Really helpful to have one that is still complete when you start reassembling.

Shoes, drums, cylinders and even a spring kit if they have one should be pretty reasonable on that car. Definitely do both sides.

I was going to do the following since they probably need to be done

Shoes
Drums
Wheel cylinders
springs
Fluid change

Of course one side at a time


It doesn't look straightforward to me but its a drum brake, they should all be very similar so a google search should help.


the website for advanced doesn't show any sort of spring it. Just a drum brake bar.

The special tool for reattaching the springs is useful. Can be done with pliers but it's harder.

I just saw that. Well I guess I shall pick one up too, its like $5 at the store

$136 for parts, $30 off code.. done! Just need fluid, hose for the bleeder nipple, and line wrenches.

Wear safety glasses. The springs like to go flying sometimes.

Check.

So I have no idea which bolt is the primary spring keeper. Pic coming soon

So there are these weird bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in place and I'm guessing the return spring for the shoes. It's a star shaped thing and the bolts for the wheel cylinder are stupid hard to get to. Attachment 106384. I think that bolt you see is what holds the return spring in place. Its the only bolt in the whole drum system

its an effing e-torx


and it looks like the only way to remove the wheel cylinder is to after removing the brake shoes and etc is to remove 4 bolts that the whole assembly bolts to the carrier with (including the hub) and then I can remove the wheel cylinder while on the bench and replace it and go from there. I really hate wasting my time getting tools.

I don't even need the line wrenches, the brake line has a banjo type fitting with a regular bolt.

Is this your first brake drum job TheDon? You will be ready to get rid of the Chebby after you do 'em. I hope it is a strong relationship:).

Ah, they're not so bad... My first car had drums all the way around...;)

Tips or tricks on this?

Only thing I know that will make it easier.

Which tool?

The tool that helps out during removal/installation of the spring. You will have to look through to find your particular application.

tools for Chebbies

it looks like the only thing holding the spring in place is that one bolt and then it should just come out.

I found this on an AR15 forum of all things?

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...01.jpg/1.image

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rooDs_KyLUk&playnext=1&list=PLACB00D5A5940D65B&feature=results_video

ding, chevy venture van uses the same rear drums. This should be very helpful

Make sure that it's unloaded before disassembly...

Turn the adjuster all the way in or you will never get the drum over the new shoes.

I have done a few drum brake jobs, not really that hard. Most Mercedes have them for the parking brake...

Ahhh yes! Good ol' Chevy pricing! :)

The little round metal thing to the far right in the graphic for 'brake hold down spring kit' is pushed in with the tool, then it's turned, and it realeases from the 'brake hold down pin' on the other side of the brake, to the left in the graphic.

The tool:

http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/gra...1/otc-4591.gif

This spring holds the shoes firm against the back stop steel, whatever that's called.

Darn, I returned that tool because it looked like it wasn't going to be needed.

Remember, "Short shoe forward"
Also remember that each side is a mirror image of the other --emergency brake hardware always pulls the same way. Pay attention to the direction of the E. Brake connecting link ( if there is one)-the slots are different.
Don't mix adjusters--one side has left hand threads---if you reverse them ( side to side) the automatic adjusters will loosen them rather than tighten them. Another reason to do only one side at a time.

The pad with the e brake bracket is held on with a non regular cotter pin. So I think I will just re use the pads since they are fine.

I am a bit hung up on removing the wheel hub. I removed the 4 bolts and hoped it would just pull off but nope its on their tight. Its FWD so there are no axles or anything to have to use a hub puller on to pop it off. ... hammer solved that issue. now having a fun time getting the adjuster back on

(I have the parts laid out and put together how they should be so to not screw it up. one side at a time)

A vice grip can be used in place of the pictured tool. Hold the pin from behind with one hand compress the spring with the washer gripped at the end of the vice grip and once thru the slot, turn it.

drums are pretty easy - I did them quite a no. of times, getting the parking brake cable clipped is an upward battle sometimes and so is the retainng pins system.

Otherwise its pretty simple, be sure to use some sealant on the back of the cylinder before mounting to the backing plate so it becomes moisture tight, you dont want it corroding off from salt, dirt and other nasties.

And as the saying goes - one wheel at a time and be sure the auto adjuster is correctly installed and working.

Go to YOUTUBE.COM

Search for -> EricThe CarGuy

He has a good video on rear drum brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA

I actually found a video by 1aauto.com that covered the shoes for a chevy venture van and the brakes were exactly the same as the malibu. Good job chevy! It's actually the 3rd or 4th video from 1aauto.com I've used, very useful place for domestic stuff.

Anyways it took me about an hour to figure out the passenger side and then 15 minutes for the driver side. The shoes are adjusted so that the drum doesn't have play and spins with some resistance. Brake lines are reattached and now I just need to bleed the brake system. I wish I had a power bleeder at this point but my room mate is home to do it the old school way.

Fill the master, loosen the cap, crack the bleeder screws and let gravity bleed the system for you. God didn't give us gravity for nothing.

It wouldn't hurt at all to replace or at least rebuild those wheel cylinders. This is BRAKES we're talking about here, so don't cut corners.

I have successfully rebuilt wheel cylinders over the years, but kind of know by looking if they are worth trying to save. If the pits are very light, you can hone them and rebuild them. The ONLY way to be successful with this is to get ALL of the pits out. Even the least little trace of a pit, will most likely end up in an unsuccessful rebuild.

Best of luck with it and get the brakes in top shape whatever it takes. The safety of you and your family is above saving a few bucks or saving a few hours.

$15 for new wheel cylinders... why bother rebuilding

Anyways, bled the rears. Since I did not crack the front brakes open I wouldn't have to bleed those, correct?

I do need to figure out how to remove the stupid float for the brake fluid reservoir so I can properly drain the reservoir and do a flush because some crap did come out when I bled the rears.

Took it for a spin and it stops like it previously did. I can hear the rears grabbing when I back up, so I guess I am good to go?

Don,

Yes, it's always best to replace the wheel cylinders unless they are only lightly pitted.

You might get by with not bleeding the fronts as long as the master cylinder is in good shape. That said, I would flush them thoroughly. Brake fluid is cheap and as I said before, brakes are important.

Did you snug up the adjustment on the shoes while you were back there?

Glad you got it back on the road and in safe condition.:)

I adjusted them to a point where they rubbed while spinning the drum and apparently they will self adjust after then. There is no adjustment window on the backside of the drum housing so if I wanted to adjust more I'd have to take the wheel off.

I think I will do a proper flush next week when I have the weekend off (new job has weekends off). I wanted to get the rears good to go before doing the fronts, I do not want to snap off a bleeder today

thanks for your help guys


saved a ton of money. The wheel cylinders, a liter of brake fluid, and 2 feet of clear tubing came to around $50. I just have to return the new rotors and pads I bought as insurance should I have needed them.

One tip I might offer to those doing drum brakes in the future: Put masking tape on the shoe surfaces FIRST THING out of the box - take it off last thing, before putting the drums on. Keeps them nice and clean.