I use to have an odd vw kit car with dual weber carbs I tried to get them adjusted and it made me so mad that I punched myself in the face.

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I've never messed with DCOE(or whatever that famous letter combination is) Webers, but have always wanted the opportunity. They are very tunable.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

It's always fun resynching the 4 carbs on my 1975 Kawasaki 900 Z-1B.

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Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"

When my Dad passed away almost three years ago, I came across his apparatus he made and used for synching the four carbs on his Honda 750. He always had it running spot on.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

Let me guess, a couple of vacuum gauges on a board so he could compare readings more easily.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

One of the reasons I finally parted with my 87 Subaru wagon and went diesel back in 05 - it had a two barrel factory carb - and it was getting damn near impossible to get parts for the carb and the car locally, much less find someone that knew how to PROPERLY rebuild and tune the carb on it.

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Just say "NO" to Ethanol - Drive Diesel

Mitchell Oates
Mooresville, NC
'87 300D 212K miles
'87 300D 151K miles - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD 67K miles
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club

Oooh, could be a Carter or a Quadrajet. Good luck!

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

I had EXACTLY the same issue with my '87 Loyale (loved that car, manual Hi-Lo range selector rather than a push button). It would either start fine, idle & run clean with no power or run rich, be a b!tch to start, foul the plugs with plenty of power (until the plugs were sufficiently fouled). I rebuilt the carb once with no improvement, sent it to the dealer who couldn't find the issue and rebuilt the carb again figuring I must have missed something but it was no better.

Near as I can tell it was some electronic bugaboo since there was a plug on the carb, which when disconnected, would allow the easy start/clean running/no power scenario and when plugged in would allow for hard start/plug fouling/plenty of power scenario. After awhile I got tired of unplugging to start, plugging back in, cleaning spark plugs, smoking like a diesel, etc.

Looking back now, I wonder if it was an electric choke control of some sort?

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

No, it was a four cylinder. There were four very high quality, large dial vac guages.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

I have fiddled with carburettors a lot, but my experience is limited to japanese Aisan and KeiHin carburettors, I also had a VW bug that I had to troubleshoot and got it running really sweet.

I was taught by a very oldschool guy and also learnt a lot from experience.

In first adjustment before the carburettor is bolted to the engine a few parameters are checked - so we know that only the carburettor is in question.

1 - overhaul/grease the distributor centrifugal advance, check clearance of rubbing cam to heel of CB points, make sure the points are good, make sure the quench capacitor is good, make sure the ignition coil is correct for application. Make sure the manifold has got some heat supply to it, It helps draw mixture from the carburettor - dont know how or why - but it really improves port vacuum. Also use a brand new air filter. It is also vital to ensure the valve clearances are correct and that the engine can pump good compression and you have no leaks in the intake manifold.

at first install after verifying float level, screw in the idle mixture fully and out about 2 or 3 turns as a base point, fill the bowl and operate the throttle lever, if there is a pump in it you should see it pee or squirt a stream of fuel into the primary throat. If its not flooding over through the emulsification circuits - your needle valve is ok.

attempt to start the engine - use choke or keep it pushed depending on what your engine is doing - it would catch rough but you would need to start adjusting the main idle lever to keep it running. Let it warm up and then start to adjust the idle mixture and idle speed stop screw so that you have the smoothest idle at your recommended idle speed.

Now - stop and let it cool down, after its cool - check the choke operation and cold start idle speed raise systems - what you want to adjust is the cold idle setting and see it transition into hot idle setting.

Now it comes to the big fuelling part, ideally this is checked with a exhaust analyser but you can check the color of your spark plugs (if they are correct heat range and your engine is in good health) to fine tune this.

All the above would be invalid if something like your throttle shaft being worn or having leaks in the system.

The hot intake manifold was put because in my VW - it had heat riser pipes on it that were heated by the exhaust gases, these get blocked over time. For the longest time I would fight with cutting out issues after a long drive or overfuelling on deceleration. Once I decoked the heatriser pipe, the intake manifold would be frosted over at the base from the low pressure zone under the throttle blade. I then dialed down the idle mixture and had to change out the carburettor pump jet to original spec. The car never stalled or cut again, power was restored as well as the fweem sound.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Yes, it could be, and I'm not around boats that much, but the few American V8 powered ones I've seen have had Holleys. If it turns out to be a Carter(Edelbrock) the parts situation will be good. If it's a Quadrajet, it will be a little more obscure.

Carters are tunable with different needles and jets readily available. The problem with them is that the pistons and bores that move the needle in and out of the main jet wear out.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

Those were available by numerous after-market providers as was a similar set that used columns filled with mercury. The latter was ok 'til you sucked some of the mercury into the intake.

Oddly enough what I found to be as accurate in the case of the Kawa Z-1 was to use a manual procedure in the FSM. Gap on throttle slide was adjusted wire a spark plug wire gauge.

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Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"

One word...... Megasquirt.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

I vaguely remember my Dad talking about this, but it was in the seventies, so I don't remember a lot of details. As I recall, he was not impressed by the commercially available manifold and guage sets available at the time, due to their poor resolution. I don't know where he came up with them, but the guages he used looked to be of very high quality.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

Depends on vintage. Chrylser Marine went through a number of different carb suppliers over the years. Of course, there's always the possibility it's been swapped out.

As far as the Carters, my only experience with them was on my uncle's old drag boat, needle and jet changes weren't enough. Could never quite get it "right" but I suspect it was a wear issue as you mentioned. (Even not "right", it would still throw you over the low-back seats upon acceleration if you weren't holding on/strapped in. He preferred holding on since he didn't want to be strapped into the thing if it decided it wanted to pirouette it's way across the lake. ).

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)