If you were careful to use the Tool it could replace a crimped type Collar.

However, If you need to remove it I think you ruin the Clamp.

All the Turbochargers I have seen use Worm Gear type Clamps and you can get them with the shielding under them so they do not chew up the hose.
The actual boost Pressure on a Turbo charger is not so high that it cannot be handled by normal Clamps.

Personally I do not think I would use that Tool as a replacement for removable Clamps. I would use it for mor special Applications.

I think it would be a good Tool to have for someone who repairs all kinds of things out in the Field away from a Shop. It would allow Him or Her to fix something without having to go someplace to find a Clamp.

This Tool/Clamping System could be the answer for people like Me who only replaced the Hose part of their Oil Cooler Hoses.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you were careful to use the Tool it could replace a crimped type Collar.

However, If you need to remove it I think you ruin the Clamp.

All the Turbochargers I have seen use Worm Gear type Clamps and you can get them with the shielding under them so they do not chew up the hose.
The actual boost Pressure on a Turbo charger is not so high that it cannot be handled by normal Clamps.

Personally I do not think I would use that Tool as a replacement for removable Clamps. I would use it for mor special Applications.

I think it would be a good Tool to have for someone who repairs all kinds of things out in the Field away from a Shop. It would allow Him or Her to fix something without having to go someplace to find a Clamp.

This Tool/Clamping System could be the answer for people like Me who only replaced the Hose part of their Oil Cooler Hoses if some info can be founs as to what type of pressure the clamps can hold.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I use this clamp exclusively for all of the air and water heater hoses on my gold dredge. The air compressor pop off valve is set at 125 PSI.

The main feature of this style clamp is that it achieves clamping over 360 degrees. Traditional clamps always have a portion that is pinching and not clamping. I really like the fact that if done properly it has a near invisible profile and nothing to catch or snag. They aren't re-usable or re-tensionable, so it is a 1 time only deal. I wouldn't use them on stuff that sees service on a regular basis.

You do need a wire with good tensile strength. I prefer stainless wire. For boost hoses I've used stainless TIG filler wire in a single wrap. It was a little heavy for the tool but still worked great. For general purpose something around .025" would work well.

__________________

90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

The blue silicone hose shown needs a constant tension clamp- not the t bolt clamp or the worm drive clamp.

BTW as hose is not a hose- different hoses require different clamps.

Thanks for the Info.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel