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  #31  
Old 03-11-2013, 08:53 PM
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Here are some pics.

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Life of a water heater...-tank-burn.jpg   Life of a water heater...-thermostat.jpg  
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  #32  
Old 03-11-2013, 09:59 PM
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One would never know from the pictures that you were once known as King Of Beer Drinkers.....
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  #33  
Old 03-11-2013, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmbdiesel View Post
One would never know from the pictures that you were once known as King Of Beer Drinkers.....
my hands shake because of age, not because of drink.
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  #34  
Old 03-12-2013, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Clk Man View Post
my hands shake because of age, not because of drink.
I only miss the avatar... Glad it's working for you.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
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  #35  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:41 PM
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Who Doesn't Love Mayhem?
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  #36  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:43 PM
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speaking of life of... our primary sump pump's float broke off last night!

stupid pump is only 3-4 years old i think..

Meanwhile the secondary pump in the original part of the house is still going strong. Not even sure how old that sucker is.
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  #37  
Old 03-12-2013, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jplinville View Post
What is the average lifespan of a water heater?? The one we have was put in about 18 months before we moved in 2 years ago last month...That means it's only 3.5 years old.

My son went to the basement yesterday and came back up telling me that the floor was damp around the water tank, but there wasn't a stream. I went down there to look, and saw that it was wet, but nothing bad enough to panic...it could wait 'til today.

I filed a claim online with HSA, my home warranty company, at 7:30...20 minutes later a plumber called back and said they could replace it today, and said that my deductible was only $50. Cool...new water heater for $50, installed...I can afford that.

How long can I expect one of today's water heaters to last? I remember dad replacing one about 30 years ago, and my brother just replaced that one 6 months ago...it had a 29.5 year lifespan. I was impressed, and envy him on that!

I want to add that it's a 50 gallon Whirlpool gas water heater.
I did not read the other Posts so this could be a repeat.

At least on the Old Hot Water Tanks there is a Zinc Anode (I think it is called an Anode). The Anode is there so it gets eaten up instead of the Tank.
The Anode is attached to a Plug or 2 that screws into the Top of the Tank.
Water Heaters that have a loner warranty have a longer or more substantial Anode.

I bought a cheap Water Heater back in 1986 and it is still working. But, back then I has access to some Zinc Anode Material and threaded it and installed it in one of the Plugs in the Tank.

At this point however I am expecting My Tank to leak and have not taking the time to inspect the Anode to see if there is still any there and it has certainly been a long time 27 years now.

At the time I wanted to make the Anode as long as possible but the top of My Water Heater sits about 12 inches from the Ceiling and I had to cut it shorter.

I think another issue is that in 1986 I don't think the Water Heater I bought was made in China.
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  #38  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:00 PM
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The old one didn't have an anode. It didn't have any bungs on the top to accommodate one either.
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  #39  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:13 PM
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How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod | Video | This Old House

heres a good video on replacing the anodes.
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  #40  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:20 AM
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Good video also I was unware of the flexable replacement anode.
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  #41  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
Good video also I was unware of the flexable replacement anode.
X2 on the flexiable anode.
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  #42  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Clk Man View Post
Mine just crapped out today, the thermostat was fried.
Thermostat or Thermocouple?
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  #43  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover View Post
Up to code? You dont have to, thats only for new construction and remodel. You may as well since it cheap, but contractors LOVE to pull the "up to code" line way too much. Retroactive codes, like asbestos removal, are far and few.
The Code issues can be odd.

When there was a Fire in My House with the exception of them having to add GIF Electrical Outlets in the Kitchen they did not have to bring the other Rooms up to the Electrical Code that would nave means adding more Electrical Sockets and tearing apart the Wall so the Inspector could view the Job.

If I did any remodeling I would have to do the Update and add more Electrical Sockets and that is supposed to be done by a certified Electrician.

Also with the Plumbing a real Plumber is supposed to do the Job. However, when I ask them about that Building and Planning was very evasive about that.
Apparently if you are just replacing/repairing Plumbing and Electical stuff the Home Owner can do that.
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  #44  
Old 04-22-2013, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
The Code issues can be odd.

...

Also with the Plumbing a real Plumber is supposed to do the Job. However, when I ask them about that Building and Planning was very evasive about that.
Apparently if you are just replacing/repairing Plumbing and Electical stuff the Home Owner can do that.
So for replacing existing units (water heater), no permit is required?

I'm currently in the same predicament, our water heater was built/installed in 1978. Still working, but knocking when in use. It's a gas-fed water heater, 50 gallon tank.

The guy who came by to inspect said it needed to be in code, since the C-vent is not clear within 6-inches around it. Using a B-vent will be expensive but will lower clearance to 1-inch around the piping.

The current heater is 53 inches tall. New ones typically are 58 inches tall. It already doesn't have 12 inches of vertical clearance above. Getting a new one will push the top end closer.

It does not have a drip pan and there is no drain towards the exterior of the house that is at least 6-inches above-ground. The heater tank is in the middle of the garage so the drain would be pretty far and would follow the gas dryer ducting, which I did.

What are my options in terms of getting a replacement water heater that will:

1. Bring it up to code?
2. Simply replace the existing one?

We want to get a 50 gallon tank, still gas-fed, with a good warranty. We also have a home warranty and it does cover the water heater.

The initial quote when we had somebody come over was $1029 for the unit plus installation, plus Anaheim permit ($138!), plus other stuff to bring it to code. If the 58" tank will not fit then a stubby (wider but shorter) 50-gallon tank is available but that will drive the cost almost 50% more.
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  #45  
Old 04-22-2013, 01:10 AM
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Other than wanting the home warranty to pay, can't you just do the work yourself (assuming you trust yourself) and not ask anyone for permission? Who will know if you replaced the heater -- not as if anyone is auditing your credit card receipts for illegal water heaters!

(Or do you have nosy neighbors who deserve a steel pipe to their schnozzles to knock them back to their proper size?)

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