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#1
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300c Adenour
Anyone know about the brake adjustment on a '56 300c? I'm at wit's end trying to get the shoes adjusted. The anchor point is not adjust-able and there are no concentric adjustments. Thanks John H
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#2
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That model was known for it's limited brakes to the best of my limited knowledge. I would scour the antiques section Called pre 1979 models or whatever for any way that has come about with time to improve them generally.
I know this is not the best response to your question but few on this site in the diesel section would know much about them in my opinion. I never worked on one but was all too aware of this issue. What was strange to me is otherwise mercedes usually put good brakes on most of their models. |
#3
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Is there not a star wheel? Wait, I can't remember after over 40 years, but I did drum brakes on an old Ponton while in Germany in the Army. As I recall there was an eccentric on a bolt or something that went through the shoe. It also seems like it was a two wheel cylinder arrangement. I remember a two cylinder arrangement on something somewhere and that might have been it. Hope this helps.
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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual 2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution Last edited by Air&Road; 03-27-2013 at 02:51 PM. |
#4
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You need to post this in the 'Vintage' section, and you will need to identify the brake as either a Teves, Girling or Dunlop system. It is also important to see if the same make of brakes is used on all four wheels as some Mercedes used one make of brakes on the front and one make on the back.
Also... Disc or drum? A photo would also be helpful. |
#5
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Since this thread hasn't been moved yet, I'll reply here.
I've never worked on an Adenauer, but in those days, the Pontons and early Fintails used four-wheel ATE drums. Each front drum had twin single-ended wheel-cylinders with two leading shoes, Each rear used a single double-ended wheel cylinder with leading & trailing shoes. The cheapest models had manual adjusters via a bolt shoe-anchor through the backing-plate at the center of each shoe. The bolt had an eccentric plate that moved the shoe as the bolt was rotated. Instead of the manual adjuster-bolt, the more expensive versions used automatic adjusters, via a fat shoe-anchor pin with a heavy spring and friction-washers. These had no normal provision for manual adjustment other that stepping on the brake-pedal. If the friction-washers aren't worn out and allowing the shoes to slide too freely, it may be possible, to try what I did with my '60 Fintail. Before installing the drums, manually pry the shoes outward somewhat, with a screwdriver against the friction-washers, to effect a tighter adjustment. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 03-29-2013 at 09:28 PM. |
#6
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According to my owners manual, these are indeed self adjusting. It states if new shoes are installed, be sure they are pushed completely to the inside over the self adjusters. Once drums are reinstalled, pump brake pedal vigorously to set.
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‘84 300TD “Mountain Goat” '62 300d Adenauer-350 Chevy - "Max" '15 VW Passat TDI '16 Dodge Ram 3500 - Cummins w/6-speed '68 Mustang fastback '55 T-bird ‘63 Studebaker Hawk |
#7
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I did a 300b Cab a few years ago and found the brakes to be pretty good, all things considered. The car IS heavy but the brakes are quite large and stopping effort wasn't that bad. |
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