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View Poll Results: You Use your clutch how?
Start moving the gear handle and clutch simultaneously 2 10.00%
Move the gear handle before clutch pedal reaches the floor 5 25.00%
Don't move the gear handle until the clutch pedal touches the floor 11 55.00%
Don't use the clutch at all except for starting and stopping the vehicle 2 10.00%
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 08-01-2013, 10:51 AM
Posting since Jan 2000
 
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How Do You Operate Your Clutch and Gear Handle?

A spin off of the manual transmission competency thread. Since there were an overwhelming percentage that claimed to be highly proficient. What is your selection for your clutch and gear handle method?

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  #2  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:03 AM
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What did I just do?
 
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If you have a Packard with automatic clutch the clutch pedal is seldom used....just shift.
If you have a 810/812 Cord you shift, then cycle the clutch to shift.
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  #3  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:15 AM
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Any Packard or Cord drivers on this forum?
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  #4  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate300d View Post
If you have a 810/812 Cord you shift, then cycle the clutch to shift.
Is that a "pre-selector" transmission?
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  #5  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:27 AM
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What did I just do?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdrun View Post
Is that a "pre-selector" transmission?
Yes, indeed. Tucker used the same transmission and shifter unit, but they had to modify the transmission for heavier gears because the Tucker engine had much more torque than the Cord engine and could destroy the gears very quickly.
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Current:
1985 300D aka Miss Margaret
1991 300SE aka Alarice
1995 SL320 aka Samantha
1997 K1500 Silverado
Past:
1999 E300 ex-wife got it and let her son ruin it
1984 190 2.3 ex-wife got it and let her son destroy a great car
1985 300D (CA version) aka Maybelline lost to deer at high speed.
1981 300D aka Madeline (went to salvage at near 400k) rusty, yet best car I ever drove
Wishlist:
McFarlan TV6 (only a few privately owned)
ReVere with Rochester engine
1917 Premier (only one left)
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  #6  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:27 AM
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Are we talking about starting from a dead stop? Shifting under acceleration? Downshifting in anticipation of a stop, or of a passing opportunity? Just at cruise to better match gear to conditions?

I'm not sure how much attention I've ever paid. I think it's different in different vehicles. I'll get back to you.

MV
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  #7  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:27 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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I have no idea how I do it, but I have been doing it for 40 years and haven't broken/burned up anything. Someone else needs to observe it....

I think it's mostly:
"Move the gear handle before clutch pedal reaches the floor"

except the 1.6 diesel Jetta has a bad 3 rd gear synchro, so it's pedal to the floor, count one beat, change gear only 2-3. Really hurts the 0-60 time
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  #8  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:30 AM
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I try to set up all my vehicles so that "pedal to the floor" is the proper fully disengaged position. Then, I like "start of engagement" to happen about an inch or so off the floor depending on the throw of the pedal.

Now, if it's a heavy truck with a clutch brake, the only time you push the pedal all the way to the floor is when you're in neutral at a dead stop. From then on, it's only part way down.

To further complicate things, if you're driving a tractor with a 2 stage clutch for the transmission and the PTO, then you only push it about half way when shifting if you want the PTO to remain active such as when mowing, etc...
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  #9  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:30 AM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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my method is first I slam the clutch into the floor as hard as possible, then I yank the gear handle violently into whatever gear feels right while at the same time applying WOT.
Then I slide my foot off the clutch pedal entirely and let it pop completely out. If I haven't left any teeth in the steering wheel, I count that as a good shift, and can concentrate on my cell phone game until the warning lights on the dash and the scream of the motor indicate its time for a new shift.


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  #10  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate300d View Post
Yes, indeed. Tucker used the same transmission and shifter unit, but they had to modify the transmission for heavier gears because the Tucker engine had much more torque than the Cord engine and could destroy the gears very quickly.
Like a Ferret scout vehicle...
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  #11  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
my method is first I slam the clutch into the floor as hard as possible, then I yank the gear handle violently into whatever gear feels right while at the same time applying WOT.
Then I slide my foot off the clutch pedal entirely and let it pop completely out. If I haven't left any teeth in the steering wheel, I count that as a good shift, and can concentrate on my cell phone game until the warning lights on the dash and the scream of the motor indicate its time for a new shift.


You're wasting your left leg, dude! I just jerk it out of gear and slam into the next one for upshifts -- the grinding stops eventually & the stick bangs into gear. For the downshifts, just slam the gas to the floor momentarily and manhandle the stick in -- truckers do this all the time!
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:14 PM
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OK, now for my serious answer: for upshifts, I use the clutch a split-second before the stick, but am already pulling the stick out of gear before the clutch is to the floor. I first roll partially off the gas such that when I let the clutch out, the gas is where it will need to be for the next gear so that I can just come off the clutch & have everything already rev-matched. On downshifts, I roll completely off the gas and then come back on to rev-match.
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:29 PM
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Usually option #3: The 1st gear syncro on my Jetta is somewhat worn, so the clutch has to be in for a moment in order to go into 1st without grinding. I have to repeat that trick on the 1-2 shift, or it will grind shifting out of first

At least all the other syncros are still working good

Why is 1st worn out? My car spent at least 150k miles being driven with a worn out, loose shifter linkage. Sadly that fries the syncros But I installed an upgraded linkage last summer, so it wont wear any more

-J
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  #14  
Old 08-01-2013, 01:24 PM
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Depends on where the release point is. My '00 Wrangler was about 3/4 the way to the floor, my '98 International 8100 is all the way to the floor, my old Subaru Loyale (man, do I miss that old wagon!) was about 1/2 way to the floor. With my Jeep and Subie it was nearly simultaneous pedal/shifter movement, with the Cornbinder I wait until the clutch is engaged. Although I won't and don't claim to be proficient with an Eaton 10 speed!
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  #15  
Old 08-01-2013, 04:35 PM
Pooka
 
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I just do it all slowly, but then I am pretty old.

I push the clutch in slow, move (not shift) to the next gear, and release the clutch.

If the engine has enough power I usually skip second gear and go right into third. If you are driving like an old man this works pretty well.

I have only replaced three clutches in my life. An Audi GT after 243,000 miles and a Toyota Truck. The truck I was putting in a new engine for a friend who gave it to his son who burned out the clutch in 900 miles by hot-rodding it. So we replaced it with a racing type and a strict lesson in 'this is what a burned out clutch looks like'.

About 45 years ago I had a Buick Skylark with the aluminum V-8 and a factory four-speed and that one I had to slam into gear. That got old quick.


Last edited by Pooka; 08-01-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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