Resynching '99 Rodeo cam(s) - SOHC
 

Chaning out timing belt on a '95 Rodeo 3.2l - SOHC -automatic.

Lined up crank marks and 2 cams sprockets as per manual. When installing new belt, drivers side cam sprocket would fall thru a bit. I finally got the crank and two cams lined up and the tensioner on. Now the passenger side cam sprocket mark is about 3/4" early. It could be that the drivers side cam is the one that's really off since this is where I had most of my problems.

The engine is of a post-distributor variety so there's no rotor to guide in positioning. The engine has been turned manually several times; I do not hear anything colliding. If I did, I suspect the engine would not turn.

If anyone has any ideas about how I might get the cam(s) lined back up I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

Do the cams have flats on them to accept a wrench? If so, you might could try loosening (or removing), the belt tensioner then using a wrench rotate one cam so the marks line up, then do the other. With the tension off the belt, I would think you could move the can that small amount without disturbing all the other marks. Be sure to have the crank set to TDC before adjusting the cams, or the cam that is off by a degree or so. Depending of how much netural tension is in the new belt, you might have to hold the opposing cam in place.

Hope this helps.

Mike - thanks for your reply - it's really a '95 as I indicated in the email and not a '99 as I did in the title.

The belt tensioning issue is what's created this problem(that's the way I see it anyway). As per the manual, you line up a crankshaft mark with an index mark and do the same for the 2 cam sprockets. The belt comes off. I've had a whale of a time today with "wandering cam sprockets. I thought I finally had it wrapped up until I installed the belt tensioner. This little bugger has a protrusion rod that is so powerful you have to put it in a vise to compress it in order to reinstall the "grenade pin". I had to pivot the idler pulley in order to provide enough room for this powerful belt tensioner. I believe when I did that, tension was applied to the belt and the cam sprocket was pulled about 1/2" counter-clockwise.

The cam sprockets have 14mm bolts on the end and I had to straighten out the opposite cam when it got knocked off it's mark earlier today.

I suppose I could tear it all down, but I'm stumped right now as to how I can keep everything from wandering and not knock everything loose again when I reinstall the tensioning mechanism.

Is there a tension adjustment for a new belt? I can't remember back to my Izusu - thankfully ;).

Perhaps you just need an assistant, holding wrenches on each cam as you install the tensioner, that way the cams are held in place while the tensioner sucks up every last bit of give in the belt. Maybe the belt will slip on the pulleys. Here let me throw another straw or two and we'll grab at 'em :), there has to be a way to skin this cat.

Mike - once again - thanks for the reply.

The 3.2litre SOHC Isuzu Rodeo engine does indeed have a tensioner for the timing belt and it's a powerful tensioner compared to what Honda uses on the Civics/Accords. You do have to reinstall it for any belt, new or used.

Again, I believe I created the problem when I applied tension to the belt tensioner pulley to make room to slide the actual tensioner underneath. The tensioner is bolted to the front of the engine and the tensioner pulley must be moved to refit it. The tensioner pulley of course has the belt riding on it so you need some muscle to more it over enough to refit the tensioner.

I agree with your assessment - two "pairs" of hands are better than one. This may be what it takes.

Too bad the manuals say "take off" and "replace with new part".
I oncovered all sorts of things thus far that could have been discussed, but you know how that goes. I suspect that this task involves from time to time, 2 pairs of hands, unlike my one.

I think it's time for some liquified yeast/barley. Thanks again.

Drink up.

I found my old Izusu book, unfortunately the V-6 at the time was a pushrod engine with a chain. The belt tensioner for the four shows to lever the tensioner to the side with a suitable pry bar, doesn't offer much more than that other than when properly tensioned you should be able to flex the belt 90* (in a twist) on the long run. I remember putting the belt back on the four, and moving the tensioner was a feat on that one too. Seems I remember getting the belt just caught on the cam pulley, then levering over the tensioner and just getting the belt caught there, A lot of working and milking to get the belt seated on the pulleys and idler, etc.

Lots of luck, should go better tomorrow.

Hope this helps !
 

These engines can be rather difficult and almost require 3 hands to keep everything lined up but try this,line up all marks like before,start belt on crank pulley then up to drivers side cam,wedge small piece of wood(substitute your choice of materials,soft please) under crank gear and belt to prevent slip on crank,round dr side gear on the mark and hold this one with wooden clothes pin( all you need to do is keep the belt down on the gear) then over to the pass side gear.I cant remember if you have to go round the water pump pulley on this motor or not but still works the same.Carefully use a wrench and turn the pulley slightly past the mark in the direction of the drivers side cam then slip belt on it and ease it back to take up tension.At this point you should have all key points in align and just have the hercules tensioner to deal with.use a screwdriver/prybar to hold tensioner pulley up and insert lower bolt in tensioner,push belt tight and slide that protruding spring pin under the lever that it pushes on the pulley.install other bolt,release tension and voila ! treat yourself to a barley pop,now you know why we charge 2-300 clams to deal with these nightmares ! Imagine this mess under the hood of a FWD car with absolutely NO room to work. Good luck,if you need more details please e-mail . Vince.

Vince/Mike:

Nailed it !!

My biggest concern throughout this was the fact that the cam sprocket timing marks were thrown off a bit. At one point, even the crank sprocket mark fell back.

I was granted an audience with a local Isuzu shop foreman(not the kind that wears a tie). The 6VD1 Rodeo engine(3.2litre SOHC) is a NON-INTERFERENCE engine. This type of engine is somewhat forgiving, especially in this type of situation

I ended up moving marks forward(passenger side cam) a bit and pulling the crank back a hair. The tensioning mechanism on this car will PULL something(cam or crank) back a bit every time.

I started out lining up the white mark on the t-belt with the passenger side cam, then clipped it down with these metal clips used in offices for holding sizeable amounts of paper together. I do not know what they are called. Routed under the water pump, then up to the drivers side cam and got the white mark on the belt to line up there too. Down around the idler pulley(drivers side) then around the tensioner pulley(passenger side) and finally down below around the crank.

Applied tension to the 14mm bolt on the tensioner pulley in order to make room for the tensioner device. Used a long breaker bar, not for torque, but length. I locked the end of the bar under the power steering pulley. Installed tensioner. Checked marks. OK. Pulled the "grenade pin" on the tensioner. Rechecked everything. Marks ok!

Reassembled everything that came off first(large list-won't go into this), turned the key and life is once again good.

Got my 6VD1 timing belt merit badge.

It's too bad that the info in the Haynes and Chilton manuals do not discuss this. The factory shop manual is even worse.

I learned something today. Thank you all for your time.