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  #16  
Old 12-02-2013, 06:09 AM
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I had this one in cleaning the intake and replacing the mass air meter. Don, what year did they go to direct injection? I am of the opinion that a pre-direct injection model would probably be preferable. I did not see where it was too bad to work on.

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  #17  
Old 12-02-2013, 08:49 AM
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About 2004 my wife bought one. My daughter had an airbag deploying accident in it that ALMOST totaled it, but it was near new, so they could afford serious crash damage. My wife put well over 200,000 miles on it with no problems other than the accident.

It's difficult to understand what they are all about without driving one. Unlike most any other car of it's size, the wheels are at the extreme corners, making it a hoot to drive.

I never had to do anything beyond routine maintenance, but I never encountered anything difficult as far as maintenance goes. If you had to do any serious work, it appeared that the front end came off quite quickly to offer better engine access than you would have with many cars.

If she had not bought one with the CVT, she would probably still have it. For those interested, don't buy a CVT. The only alternative if it fails is an $8,000 replacement. I could never find an aftermarket alternative. When the car was worth about $8,000 we decided to get rid of it before we needed to spend that $8,000.
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2013, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
NOT a mechanic friendly car. Step 1 for just about everything is removing the entire nose.
That's the way it is with a lot of small cars. You've pretty much got to remove the headlight to change the bulb in a Prius. Which entails removing the bumper cover, the fender lining ...
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2013, 09:59 AM
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This is why buying the most basic small car is ideal. No turbo, no AC (if possible), smallest 4-cyl engine, etc means more room under there
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  #20  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:18 AM
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This is why buying the most basic small car is ideal. No turbo, no AC (if possible), smallest 4-cyl engine, etc means more room under there
W115, 220D

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  #21  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:23 AM
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W115, 220D

- Peter.
I'd sooner have my W123 -- better injection system, not the cobbled-together system (who needs a throttle plate in a Diesel?!) that the W115 cars had.
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:26 AM
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I heard they burn a LOT of oil. Google it.
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by spdrun View Post
I'd sooner have my W123 -- better injection system, not the cobbled-together system (who needs a throttle plate in a Diesel?!) that the W115 cars had.
What throttle plate?

- Peter.
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  #24  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by pj67coll View Post
What throttle plate?

- Peter.
The OM615 has a throttle plate like a gasser and a vacuum governor. (or at least something on it is vacuum controlled, hence the throttle plate)
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  #25  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:56 AM
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I heard they burn a LOT of oil. Google it.

My wifes didn't burn a DROP, not even after the 200,000 mile mark. I followed the owners manual recommendation and changed every 10,000 miles using Mobil One. The oil level did not go down AT ALL, between changes.
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  #26  
Old 12-02-2013, 12:22 PM
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You must be selling some bet o. Crap coopers. Once I sorted mine out ( supercharger, clutch, starter, alternator, belt tensioner, coil and wires) its been trouble free. The issue is people don't take car of the car, they think it's will be fine with just oil changes, nope. Not at all. You need to pay attention to these cars
So, after all of those repairs, you didn't need to more repairs?

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Originally Posted by benhogan View Post
I heard they burn a LOT of oil. Google it.
Yes. They drink it like it was free. BMW allows 1qt per 1000 miles. The car holds ~5qts. The oil change interval is over 10,000 miles. You see where this is going? The market is filled with Hondas, Toyotas, and Nissans that don't require a thing between oil changes, when people buy these cars, that's what they're used to. It doesn't go well from there.

The direct inject and carbon build up on the valves is another issue on the newer ones. As is the timing chain. And the power steering pumps on the older ones. All in all, the older models, with the supercharger, not the turbo, are ok. Avoid the CVT. Do regular maintenance and check your oil when you fuel. The newer ones? Complete crap. An embarrassment to the name.

MV
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  #27  
Old 12-02-2013, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BAVBMW View Post
The market is filled with Hondas, Toyotas, and Nissans that don't require a thing between oil changes, when people buy these cars, that's what they're used to. It doesn't go well from there.

.

MV
care to share some stories BAVBMW? does this oil consumption happen after a certain mileage? What 'new' ones are you talking about, 2014 models?
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  #28  
Old 12-02-2013, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
You must be selling some bet o. Crap coopers. Once I sorted mine out ( supercharger, clutch, starter, alternator, belt tensioner, coil and wires) its been trouble free. The issue is people don't take car of the car, they think it's will be fine with just oil changes, nope. Not at all. You need to pay attention to these cars
Hardly beaters. Only buy Minis with less than 100,000 miles that are trades from new car dealers. Don't dare go high mileage. That's one heck of a list to get one "sorted" and you haven't owned it that long.

Not durable, not easy to work on.
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  #29  
Old 12-02-2013, 01:56 PM
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good reading here...

Top 419 Complaints and Reviews about Mini Cooper
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  #30  
Old 12-02-2013, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by benhogan View Post
care to share some stories BAVBMW? does this oil consumption happen after a certain mileage? What 'new' ones are you talking about, 2014 models?
They all use more oil than would be considered the norm these days, but the second generation, with the "N" engines are particularly bad. We don't see any diesels, so I can't comment on those. The oil consumption is just a feature of the engine, it doesn't really start at any mileage, or get worse with time, it just happens, and combined with owners more used to Hondas, the oil level never gets checked. Until it starts making bad noises. Half the time, by then, the oil has been baked into a sludge-like consistency, causing further problems.

The carbon build up on the intake valves is fairly well discussed all over the 'net, direct injection engines, and BMW built ones specifically, are prone to doing it. Not sure how manufacturers are planning on rectifying it. Toyota is running two sets of injectors on some models, using regular port injection at idle/low speed to keep things clean...

The newer generation would be from R56 on.

MV

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