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  #1  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:10 PM
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Removal of plaster/cement over metal lath

I'm rebuilding a leaky shower in a rental. Got all the tile off, so far, but the tile was stuck to what looks like globs of cement plaster over a thick metal mesh. Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to remove this stuff down to the studs?

Good news, no mold in the walls thus far.

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  #2  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:29 PM
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Cut it with an angle grinder and pull it off the studs?
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  #3  
Old 02-21-2014, 06:03 PM
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welcome to hell. I hate wire lath

Ive had best results with a big pair of tin snips/sawzall to make strategic cuts in the lath around where you are making your repair, some heavy gloves, a crow bar, and a lot of force, the wire lath itself isn't that thick, but the plaster can be tenacious sticking into it, making it really hard to deal with. The stuff ive removed was even held on by large nails bent over, so those were a real pain to remove.

A sawzall with a metal cutting blade will really be nice to have in hand as well for long cuts in it, but the tin snips are nice for strategic location cuts for stubborn fastners
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:09 PM
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:07 PM
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That's a horrible job. I use a combo of sledge hammers, crow bars, and a sawzall.

Have fun.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:33 PM
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Use a pry bar and pull it out in sheets. Is best to leave the tile on the "mortar", keeps everything more rigid. May need to cut each panel, will be a good 10-12lbs per sq ft.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:38 PM
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Are you sure that's enough? This stuff looks more like it needs this...
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdrun View Post
I'm rebuilding a leaky shower in a rental. Got all the tile off, so far, but the tile was stuck to what looks like globs of cement plaster over a thick metal mesh. Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to remove this stuff down to the studs?

Good news, no mold in the walls thus far.
The "metal mesh" is called; metal lathe.

Use the claw of a claw hammer and a claw crowbar as well as a ball peen hammer to smack & rip the mofo off the wall. Metal lathe is sharp as a mofo, (BTDT) wear some thick leather gloves when handling/tearing/ripping at it.

How about some pics of your handywork/situation?
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:04 AM
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Are you sure that's enough? This stuff looks more like it needs this...
Start small and move up. What works for one house may not work for the next...
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  #10  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:07 AM
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The last one I did, many moons ago, I used a body grinder with a cut-off wheel and cut out what I could, followed by a good set of aviation snips (straight cut). If I had a bent nail in the way, the grinder was a good tool to use. Make sure to have some water on hand to put out any hot spots.

This is one of those jobs that nobody envies you on.

LONG LIVE DRYWALL AND SHEET ROCK!!!!
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  #11  
Old 02-22-2014, 05:13 PM
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Tearing out enough plaster will make you grow fond of sheetrock.
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  #12  
Old 02-22-2014, 08:54 PM
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Tearing out enough plaster will make you grow fond of sheetrock.
So will crack repairs in plaster...especially horse hair plaster like I have in my house.
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2014, 12:26 AM
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Sheet rock is cheap and quick compared to plaster but plaster with lath will take a lot of water and still stay strong. Drywall, pretty much falls apart if soaked. I love plaster but who can afford it?
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2014, 02:35 PM
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Most DIY'ers are going to have difficulty installing a new mortar bed to receive tile at a shower or tub enclosure. Mortar is an excellent substrate for many reasons but difficult to prep, mix and apply if you've never done it before. I'd typically suggest DIY'ers use green board or a cement board substrate instead. Applying a product such as Custom Bldg Products "RedGard" or Laticrete "HydroBan" over the face of those substrates will keep all moisture out if the WP instructions are followed. Its not a complicated procedure and ought to last for a couple of decades of normal residential use.

DenSheild (vinyl faced gyp bd) is also a viable substrate if joints and penetrations are caulked with 100% silicone per the installation instructions.

Adhesive should be "latex modified thin-set" for longevity and not mastic. Use ANSI 118.4 or better.

Most of my 70 tile setters don't carry a "hawk" on their truck anymore. Mortar walls are pretty much a bygone era. I can typically count the number of mud showers we do each year commercially on one hand.
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Sheet rock is cheap and quick compared to plaster but plaster with lath will take a lot of water and still stay strong. Drywall, pretty much falls apart if soaked. I love plaster but who can afford it?
Anyone can afford it...not everyone can afford to have it properly done.

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