How are the Powerstroke 7.3s?

[iwrock]

Might be buying one to replace the junky 6.4 I have...

Other than the 4 speed being kinda weak-sauce, are they good in terms of reliability?

[JB3]

they are indestructible.

The ford you should have bought.

never heard anything about the 4 speed being a problem, what transmission are you describing?

[SwampYankee]

Originally Posted by iwrock

Might be buying one to replace the junky 6.4 I have...

Other than the 4 speed being kinda weak-sauce, are they good in terms of reliability?

Our 7.3PS Econoline-350 has been a beast. Almost 300K miles now of little more than routine maintenance and it's been worked hard (as a seasonal business, it does sit for 3.5 months a year). It's a 96 so sadly it's starting to get more ratty looking than I'd like it to be, although I had some rust repair done last winter and re-logo'd it.

(knocking frantically on wood)

Can't speak to the newer ones but my customers' experience with them has been similar. Those with 6.0's and 6.4's have been similar to your experiences.

[KarTek]

Are you speaking of OBS trucks or Super Duties?

OBS Powerstrokes are single shot injectors, noisy, smaller trucks overall, weak auto transmission. Good manuals. Good overall truck.

Early Super Duty's have an inferior turbo, resolved some time in 1999 I believe. Same weak auto trans.

1999-2000 are the best. Engines still have forged rods (went to powdered metal in 2001) but same old weak auto tranny. These trucks also suffer from what's called "cackle" due to the dead ended fuel rail. You can buy kits to resolve this. I never installed one on my truck and the engine sounds a little weird but works fine.

7.3 is not an easy engine to get a lot of performance out of. You have to hang a lot of stuff on there just to get it ready for serious numbers - new HPOP, injectors, turbo, chip.

[iwrock]

Originally Posted by JB3

they are indestructible.

The ford you should have bought.

never heard anything about the 4 speed being a problem, what transmission are you describing?

Hah!

The 4R100 is weaksauce, at least compared to the 5R110W that replaced it or the manual that was offered along side of it.

Originally Posted by SwampYankee

Our 7.3PS Econoline-350 has been a beast. Almost 300K miles now of little more than routine maintenance and it's been worked hard (as a seasonal business, it does sit for 3.5 months a year). It's a 96 so sadly it's starting to get more ratty looking than I'd like it to be, although I had some rust repair done last winter and re-logo'd it.

(knocking frantically on wood)

Can't speak to the newer ones but my customers' experience with them has been similar. Those with 6.0's and 6.4's have been similar to your experiences.

The 7.3 I'm after only has 130k miles. Barely broken in!

I'd love to keep the 6.4, but just see it turning into a money pit. I can break even if I cut my losses and sell the truck now, which is very appealing.

Originally Posted by KarTek

Are you speaking of OBS trucks or Super Duties?

OBS Powerstrokes are single shot injectors, noisy, smaller trucks overall, weak auto transmission. Good manuals. Good overall truck.

Early Super Duty's have an inferior turbo, resolved some time in 1999 I believe. Same weak auto trans.

1999-2000 are the best. Engines still have forged rods (went to powdered metal in 2001) but same old weak auto tranny. These trucks also suffer from what's called "cackle" due to the dead ended fuel rail. You can buy kits to resolve this. I never installed one on my truck and the engine sounds a little weird but works fine.

7.3 is not an easy engine to get a lot of performance out of. You have to hang a lot of stuff on there just to get it ready for serious numbers - new HPOP, injectors, turbo, chip.

Truck is a '99 Super Duty. It's currently 100% stock, and is going to stay 100% stock (well, it's going to get an EGT probe and new exhaust). I need something to tow a 9k lb travel trailer, which is outside of what the G500 can do.

[BobK]

My 2000 Excursion 4x4 with 7.3/4R100/3.83 runs fine with over 200k on the clock. Had to do a valve cover wiring harness on one side and did the 25 cent repair on the other. Had to replace the glow plug controller too. I was lucky enough to have a blasted Cali controller so it was $200 instead of $30. Transmissions are junk. must have a fuse in them that blows around 140k. Mine went at 138K. When it dies again I may have the guy out west (of KY) rebuild it. Oh, yeah. The oil pan comes with factory rust and WILL fail. Just about have to pull the engine to replace it. Mine is soon for that repair. Why the heck can't Ford learn to paint things? They have been in business long enough. I pull a 31' travel trailer and sometimes haul a ton (50 bags) of pellet fuel. Truck has no problem.

[KarTek]

Early or late '99? Early '99's have a build date of December '98 or earlier. Also have a Powerstroke V8 fender badge.

Cut and pasted from a list found on the Interweb:

Early 99 has a wicked wheel in it from the factory.

The E-99 has 130cc(AB code) injectors and the later 99-03 has 140cc(AD code) injectors.

The E-99 has 2" intake runners. The later 99-03 has 3" intake runners.

The E-99 has a 15* swash plate HPOP. The later 99-03 has a 17* swash plate HPOP.

The E-99 has one glow plug relay. The later 99-03 has one glow plug relay and one air intake heater relay side by side. Both relays are on the passenger side valve cover toward the front of the truck.

The E-99 has a totally different air filter that is not inter changeable with the later 99-03. But you can put the late 99 air cleaner assembly in the E-99 truck.

The E-99 track rod has smaller mounting bolts than the later 99-03.

The E-99 has shallower rotors than the later 99-03.

The E-99 has shorter hub-bearings than the later 99-03.

The E-99 front axle U bolts are square where they go over the spring pack. The later 99 U bolts are round.

The E-99 has a different pitman arm than the later 99-03.

The E-99 does not have the AIH like the later 99-03.

The E-99 does not have the automatic transmission fluid cooler in the radiator.

The E-99 has no indicator light showing that "cruise" is on. Later 99-03 has a cruise light that will come on when you set the cruise control. Some of the E-99 trucks have this light in the dash already. A newer PCM(Yes it will plug in and will run better too) must be used to make the cruise light illuminate. It is a green light on the right side edge, half way up.

[iwrock]

Originally Posted by KarTek

Early or late '99? Early '99's have a build date of December '98 or earlier. Also have a Powerstroke V8 fender badge.

Cut and pasted from a list found on the Interweb:

Early 99 has a wicked wheel in it from the factory.

The E-99 has 130cc(AB code) injectors and the later 99-03 has 140cc(AD code) injectors.

The E-99 has 2" intake runners. The later 99-03 has 3" intake runners.

The E-99 has a 15* swash plate HPOP. The later 99-03 has a 17* swash plate HPOP.

The E-99 has one glow plug relay. The later 99-03 has one glow plug relay and one air intake heater relay side by side. Both relays are on the passenger side valve cover toward the front of the truck.

The E-99 has a totally different air filter that is not inter changeable with the later 99-03. But you can put the late 99 air cleaner assembly in the E-99 truck.

The E-99 track rod has smaller mounting bolts than the later 99-03.

The E-99 has shallower rotors than the later 99-03.

The E-99 has shorter hub-bearings than the later 99-03.

The E-99 front axle U bolts are square where they go over the spring pack. The later 99 U bolts are round.

The E-99 has a different pitman arm than the later 99-03.

The E-99 does not have the AIH like the later 99-03.

The E-99 does not have the automatic transmission fluid cooler in the radiator.

The E-99 has no indicator light showing that "cruise" is on. Later 99-03 has a cruise light that will come on when you set the cruise control. Some of the E-99 trucks have this light in the dash already. A newer PCM(Yes it will plug in and will run better too) must be used to make the cruise light illuminate. It is a green light on the right side edge, half way up.

The Powerstroke badge is on the door, so does that make it a late(r) 99?

[MS Fowler]

Early on, Ford had a lot of cavitation problems with their 7.3s, both IDI and Powerstroke. Time has already killed those that were subject to it, so the remaining ones are probably OK. Still, get the test strip kit--Fleetguard Kit CC2602A from your International dealer. Follow instructions to test the SCA level in your coolant.

Powerstorkes can make a lot of power, if you have the $$$.

Best website I have found is Oilburners.net, aka the Brotherhoof Of Oil Burners, i.e. BOOB

[Hatterasguy]

Just buy a new truck with a warranty.

The new 6.7's have not started to explode yet.

[kmaysob]

i had an 02 an was extremely happy with it. decided i wasnt using it to its full potential and sold it. replaced it with an expedition.

[aklim]

Originally Posted by iwrock

Other than the 4 speed being kinda weak-sauce, are they good in terms of reliability?

I keep hearing that. Why do you say that? In 01, they had a "diode" that could cause problems but has a very limited run so the problem is already resolved. It is rated to 1000 ft/lbs of torque. Of course if you run the hell out of it by doing power adders, it won't hold but what are you trying to do?

[aklim]

Originally Posted by KarTek

Engines still have forged rods (went to powdered metal in 2001) but same old weak auto tranny. These trucks also suffer from what's called "cackle" due to the dead ended fuel rail. You can buy kits to resolve this. I never installed one on my truck and the engine sounds a little weird but works fine.

7.3 is not an easy engine to get a lot of performance out of. You have to hang a lot of stuff on there just to get it ready for serious numbers - new HPOP, injectors, turbo, chip.

It would be a late 01. Mine was 2 weeks late so it went PMR.

The cackle has been thrown a sort of fix with the injectors being AD and in #8, AE. Both split shot but AE is a long lead initial shot. I bought a kit and got it done. Became much quieter. Also if you get tuning, it can be quieter than stock if that is what you want.

With the PMR, I don't know if it is safe to exceed 400HP

[aklim]

Originally Posted by BobK

Had to replace the glow plug controller too. I was lucky enough to have a blasted Cali controller so it was $200 instead of $30.

Transmissions are junk. must have a fuse in them that blows around 140k. Mine went at 138K. When it dies again I may have the guy out west (of KY) rebuild it. Oh, yeah.

The oil pan comes with factory rust and WILL fail. Just about have to pull the engine to replace it. Mine is soon for that repair. Why the heck can't Ford learn to paint things?.

Not luck. CA trucks and Excursions have the glow plug module instead of the solenoid.

Dad hauled a 38 foot RV and it went over 150K before they decided to get it done just for preventative maintenance since they are deathly afraid of it breaking down. Got one from Brian's Truck shop with a "forever" warranty.

I have heard of a couple of people that powder coated a new pan and installed it. I just clean mine up with sandpaper or a wire wheel and spray it.

[aklim]

Originally Posted by MS Fowler

Early on, Ford had a lot of cavitation problems with their 7.3s, both IDI and Powerstroke. Time has already killed those that were subject to it, so the remaining ones are probably OK. Still, get the test strip kit--Fleetguard Kit CC2602A from your International dealer. Follow instructions to test the SCA level in your coolant.

Powerstorkes can make a lot of power, if you have the $$$.

Best website I have found is Oilburners.net, aka the Brotherhoof Of Oil Burners, i.e. BOOB

I just drained everything, flushed and flushed. Drive it for a week in the summer on plain water and flush. Used the red coolant that International uses and forget the green stuff. No need to add SCA.