anybody have a good used mitsubishi 2.6? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

t walgamuth · #1 02-01-2015, 11:53 AM

The last few days my Mitsubishi was making some noises, the power steering belt was slipping and acting jerky. So I made a note to get my belts replaced. The day I was going to take it out to my indie I noticed it was pouring water out the pump. So I refilled it and drove out there.
They replaced the pump and when started it up it exhibited signs of head gasket leaking.

We are getting buried today with heavy wet snow so I am thinking about ways to get it back in service quickly. A good used motor might be a good option.

97 SL320 · #2 02-01-2015, 05:56 PM

Finding a used motor might be difficult this far along. Try car-part.com Lifting the head isn't difficult on these engines.

I've put a lot of these motors together and know them well.

The only real way to tell if combustion gasses are entering the cooling system is to pressurize each cylinder through the spark plug hole while the valves are closed , then look for bubbles in the radiator. Any other method including the CO test liquid is a waste of time. There is an equal chance the gasket failed / head is cracked.

There are 2 head styles and 4 valve train options. The two head styles are with MCA jet / without MCA jet, a jet head can be installed on a non jet app if you use blockoff plugs / take each valve apart and weld shut then reinstall.

The 4 valve train options are with hydraulic lash adjusters / without hydraulic lash adjusters ( lifters ), in either case you must use the valves / cam to match as the valve stems are different lengths between the two.

The other VT option is front or rear wheel drive, front drive apps has a stub shaft coming off the rear of the cam to belt drive a water pump.

Also, for the engine block, front and rear drive apps are not interchangable, the rear drive has a waterpump area at the front and the front drive a water pump mount at the rear.

Timing chain guides fracture on these motors then fall in to the oil pump / balance shaft chain causing loss of oil pressure. If the timing cover is removed, consider installing a balance shaft elimination kit as the balance shaft bearings tend to fail, make noise and reduce oil pressure.

In general your other options for a motor may be dependent of specifics: Dodge Ram 50 / Plymouth Mighty Max - Raider / Mitsu pickup and a Mazda maybe Nissan pickup that I can't remember the year / Chrysler Conquest - Mitsu Starion turbo. ( The Isuzu Trooper 2.6 is a completely different engine )

For heads also look at Chrysler mini vans / K cars and similar

And if you got really ambitious, the 2.0 Diesel used the same footprint.

tbomachines · #3 02-01-2015, 06:51 PM

Disclaimer: all my knowledge pertains to Starion/Conquests with the turbo variant of that engine.

Yikes, HG's are a pretty common issue on the G54. Do you have a jet head or non-jet head? Anecdotally non-jet are less prone to cracking. Starquest guys seem to like this source for parts and expertise:
Engine Machine Service, Inc. - Conquest

Many of the parts swap over to non-turbo variants, probably couldn't hurt to give them a call and pick their brains. Never fun to deal with those issues, good luck with it Tom.

t walgamuth · #4 02-01-2015, 10:37 PM

Thanks gentlemen. I noted today that brand new heads are available and that this engine or variants of it were offered on fork lifts. Apparently the heads are prone to cracking or new heads would not be available. Bubbles in the coolant could be head gasket or would it more likely indicate cracked head? Its in an 87 Montero with a carburetor with a million tubes running around.

it runs perfect though and gave no indication of a problem until I noticed the pump leaking and lack of heat in heater when I thought it should have heat. I never saw a high temp on the gauge. Of course I just drive it around town and to push snow.

JB3 · #5 02-01-2015, 11:06 PM

617 time.

t walgamuth · #6 02-02-2015, 07:00 AM

I'd love to do a 240d motor but its in the middle of greatest need for a plow truck so I'll be wanting to do it quickly.

JB3 · #7 02-02-2015, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

I'd love to do a 240d motor but its in the middle of greatest need for a plow truck so I'll be wanting to do it quickly.

Throw some egg in the radiator, then limp it along all snow season. 616 time in the spring

t walgamuth · #8 02-02-2015, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB3

Throw some egg in the radiator, then limp it along all snow season. 616 time in the spring

The pressure into the coolant is massive.

t walgamuth · #9 02-02-2015, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

Finding a used motor might be difficult this far along. Try car-part.com Lifting the head isn't difficult on these engines.

I've put a lot of these motors together and know them well.

The only real way to tell if combustion gasses are entering the cooling system is to pressurize each cylinder through the spark plug hole while the valves are closed , then look for bubbles in the radiator. Any other method including the CO test liquid is a waste of time. There is an equal chance the gasket failed / head is cracked.

There are 2 head styles and 4 valve train options. The two head styles are with MCA jet / without MCA jet, a jet head can be installed on a non jet app if you use blockoff plugs / take each valve apart and weld shut then reinstall.

The 4 valve train options are with hydraulic lash adjusters / without hydraulic lash adjusters ( lifters ), in either case you must use the valves / cam to match as the valve stems are different lengths between the two.

The other VT option is front or rear wheel drive, front drive apps has a stub shaft coming off the rear of the cam to belt drive a water pump.

Also, for the engine block, front and rear drive apps are not interchangable, the rear drive has a waterpump area at the front and the front drive a water pump mount at the rear.

Timing chain guides fracture on these motors then fall in to the oil pump / balance shaft chain causing loss of oil pressure. If the timing cover is removed, consider installing a balance shaft elimination kit as the balance shaft bearings tend to fail, make noise and reduce oil pressure.

In general your other options for a motor may be dependent of specifics: Dodge Ram 50 / Plymouth Mighty Max - Raider / Mitsu pickup and a Mazda maybe Nissan pickup that I can't remember the year / Chrysler Conquest - Mitsu Starion turbo. ( The Isuzu Trooper 2.6 is a completely different engine )

For heads also look at Chrysler mini vans / K cars and similar

And if you got really ambitious, the 2.0 Diesel used the same footprint.

I note in ebay there are offered brand new heads for this engine. Are they a good investment? Are they heavier duty than the stock 87 head? This engine was gone through about five years ago and has been used to winter drive around town and push snow for my own properties only. Seems like pretty light duty. Its never gotten warm (on the temp. gauge) ever until now.

97 SL320 · #10 02-02-2015, 08:47 PM

Marnal is one company that brings the heads into the US but I think they do not sell direct. I haven't used one so cant speak to quality.

The first step is to pressurize each cylinder to locate the bad one. Pull the head then look for a failed gasket / cracked head. Gaskets on aluminum head / iron blocks wear out so I'd vote gasket for now given it was not driven miles with low coolant. The only way to tell if head is cracked is to use a bore scope through a plug hole or lift the head.

For your car I'd unbolt the intake from the head and leave it in the car with all the hoses still attached. ( saves lots of time ) Leaving the exhaust manifold in the car is a toss up. ( I mostly did front drive cars and pulled the ex manifold with the head due to poor manifold bolt access. )

The cam sprocket comes off with one bolt then sits on a shelf to prevent the chain from falling off. After that it is pulling the distributor then 10 head bolts + 2 just ahead of the timing chain and the head comes off.

tbomachines · #11 02-02-2015, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

Marnal is one company that brings the heads into the US but I think they do not sell direct. I haven't used one so cant speak to quality.

The first step is to pressurize each cylinder to locate the bad one. Pull the head then look for a failed gasket / cracked head. Gaskets on aluminum head / iron blocks wear out so I'd vote gasket for now given it was not driven miles with low coolant. The only way to tell if head is cracked is to use a bore scope through a plug hole or lift the head.

For your car I'd unbolt the intake from the head and leave it in the car with all the hoses still attached. ( saves lots of time ) Leaving the exhaust manifold in the car is a toss up. ( I mostly did front drive cars and pulled the ex manifold with the head due to poor manifold bolt access. )

The cam sprocket comes off with one bolt then sits on a shelf to prevent the chain from falling off.

Certainly should troubleshoot but these heads have a really really notorious reputation for cracking when overheated.

Sent from an abacus

97 SL320 · #12 02-02-2015, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

Certainly should troubleshoot but these heads have a really really notorious reputation for cracking when overheated.

Sent from an abacus

From my post # 2
"I've put a lot of these motors together and know them well."

And rebuilt tons of the Mikuni carbs as well, these were good money makers as everyone else was afraid of them. ( Ford VV carbs too . . . )

tbomachines · #13 02-02-2015, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

From my post # 2
"I've put a lot of these motors together and know them well."

And rebuilt tons of the Mikuni carbs as well, these were good money makers as everyone else was afraid of them. ( Ford VV carbs too . . . )

No argument there, I don't think Tom should be getting his hopes up though.

t walgamuth · #14 02-02-2015, 10:09 PM

The engine is pretty low miles on a freshening....so the gasket is not likely to be worn from lots of use. I think the water pump failed causing it to lose coolant and I didn't notice because the temp gauge never showed hot in my short runs around town.

I have that gut feeling its a cracked head. I'm hoping the new heads offered on ebay are heavier than the original ones....know anybody who might know about the replacement heads?

tbomachines · #15 02-02-2015, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

The engine is pretty low miles on a freshening....so the gasket is not likely to be worn from lots of use. I think the water pump failed causing it to lose coolant and I didn't notice because the temp gauge never showed hot in my short runs around town.

I have that gut feeling its a cracked head. I'm hoping the new heads offered on ebay are heavier than the original ones....know anybody who might know about the replacement heads?

Nobody in particular but StarQuestClub.com is a pretty active forum and lots of those folks have dealt with the issue, built up engines, etc.