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Hardwood floor repair
There is one place where there is some movement in the hardwood flooring. I suspect there was a small gap between the subfloor and the hardwood. I have a a needle and syringe. The needle OD is smaller than .1 inch diameter. Is there a suitable glue that I could inject where the floor moves? What would you suggest?
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
#2
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Any thin wood glue should work I think. But, is it possible to put a screw up thru the subfloor and into the hardwood?
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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Most of the old timers
used thin wooden wedges driven between the joist and the subfloor. Used to be able to buy them by the bag at hardware stores. Maybe still.
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#4
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Screws vertically into the area. Even if it requires some ceiling repair. Nine times out of ten there is a moisture barrier that will prevent you gluing the hardwood to the subfloor anyways.
I have never tried it and would have to think about it for awhile. Lubrication of the squeeking areas grooves. Incidentally I use four mil plastic as the moisture barrier. Last edited by barry12345; 01-31-2015 at 09:11 AM. |
#5
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Quote:
If the hardwood floor has been layed on top of a sub-floor much like laminate flooring is done these days then you have a more complicated problem - the whole floor is meant to float about to a certain extent rather unlike the more traditional method of gluing the hardwood in place with substances such as bitumen. If you have a traditional glued down floor then I'd use glue If you have a more modern (easy to pull back up) solution I would consider removing the flooring and relaying it. If this is out of the question for another reason I'd consider squirting expanding foam through to the underside - this could go wrong and be horrifically messy though!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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If it's 3/4" hardwood, in the US, it would typically have been nailed to the subfloor. You could also drill the hardwood, put a screw down from the top, countersinking the head and fill the hole with a matching wood putty. From below would be better though.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#7
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I would make sure there is plenty of weight on the floor before screwing, save the screw from doing the work and tearing up the wood.
Last edited by INSIDIOUS; 01-31-2015 at 07:06 PM. |
#8
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Some more information--
It is 3/4 inch Brazillian Cherry. It was nailed with a pneumatic hammer. This area probably has a plastic/felt underlayment over the original OSB subfloor--memory fails somewhat. The area below is finished drywall, and a header double 2X8. I'd have to get a long bit and be precise in measurements to avoid a major screw-up. I appreciate the various suggestions. Still less than 4 weeks post-op, and the lack of activity is making me even crazier than previously. Add to that, my lack of endurance, and this is a frustrating time.
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
#9
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Quote:
Sorry to hear about the frustration. That's no good.
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#10
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Get a plug cutter and drill out a plug in a not noticeable area of a closet for example. Thats if you decide to screw from the top. Much better finish match.
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#11
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There is a remarkable product I used to stop floor squeaking. It leaves a 1/8th or slightly smaller hole however. It's a screw that has steeper pitch threads on the bottom 1.5 inch or so, I think 7 per inch, and 8 per inch above with an inch or so of clear shank up to the head. You drill a pilot hole and drive it in through a shoulder device that will stop the head at the correct height and make the upper part snap off at a scored spot about 1/4" below the floor. The steeper pitch thread travels faster and will pull down the flooring which has the lower pitch thread in the flooring at that point.
I'd recommend practicing with scrap first. I made a client very happy with these. Can also use them on carpeted floors with movement. You put scotch tape around the drill and screws so it doesn't grab the carpet on the way down. Counter-Snap Floor Repair Kit - The Fix for Squeaky Hardwood or Vinyl Floors Not sure if this is the brand I used, I got them at an ace hardware. Ah, here's the brand I used. I may be prejudiced but I like the looks of this one better. Some good instructions on the link above however: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Squeeeeek-No-More-Stops-Floor-Squeaks-From-Above-the-Floor-3233/100662995
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K Last edited by cmac2012; 02-02-2015 at 04:02 AM. |
#12
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You mean and just pop it in so you don't have to sand? Not a bad idea and I hate to be pessimistic but getting it the right height w/o sanding would be way tough. Or maybe you meant to sand, but then you'd have to refinish. With the method above, I used those waxy crayon looking filler sticks. If you get the one with 4 colors you can mix 2 or 3 to get the right shade. The stuff is fairly tough but with a big screwdriver or other spatula like think you can blend them. No sanding, close enough on the color.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#13
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Short cut the plug at less than the depth of the screw hole. I like challenges as they usually work out.
Various ways I can think of to come in at the same height so the finish of the plug and floor remain intact. The twenty five year factory finishes contain aluminium oxide ground very fine. The same stuff as on decent brands of sandpaper. It is tough stuff. |
#14
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I got a PM from a member about this and it made me realize I'd left an important tidbit out. You need to find the joists to screw these into. Needs sufficient grip on screw for the breakoff bit to work. My floor was facenailed, rows 8" apart, ever other one was on a joist. I found where those were with a studfinder in the room below and carefully measured over to the stairs and transferred that up to the main floor.
Here are some pics of the screw, I forgot I have a kit I haven't used yet. The black plastic thing is the shoulder you put the screw through, When it bottoms out the screw can't keep going down so it spins and breaks the score. In the second and third pic, the screw head is in the bottomed out position. Looks like the score, the snap off point, is just over an eighth below the surface of the floor - 5/32nds. You can barely see the pitch difference. The sharp tip of the screw is 2 1/16th below the floor surface, the thread pitch changes 1" below floor surface. The squeaks at the job I used these on were probably between the joists and subfloor but I can see from the mearurmenst that this would probably work on thin oak flooring, the 3/8 variety. But you'd probably need to use another jig that helps you see when you're at the right depth but then you need to use another enclosed jig to break the screw off below the surface.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
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