My client has two bedrooms at the rear of the house, both opening to the back yard/hot tub area by double doors. She wants to put security bars on the window in each room, facing to either side. Both are visible from the street whereas the back is not, of course. I mention the doors because that makes these windows legal to be attached without the normally fire-safety-rules mandated quick release inside. City planning confirmed, one egress point is sufficient.

Not sure about the long time standard in security bolts, this one:



There are a next gen of bolts like that, though I gather from the story at the link following that driver bits are now easily available for most of those:



Security Problems - The security screw problem is not with the security screws, it is with the tamperproof security keys

The ultimate fortress standard would be to remove trim inside and install carriage bolts, you know, round head on the outside with the small square inside to grip the hole, nut and washer on the inside and manage to cover it up with trim. OTOH, the old original has no speed driver bit. To take out requires drilling + easy outs, or major vice grip action.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

That Key Rex line shown in your website link seems interesting.

Drill the heads or tack-weld them Though an uncommon bit would likely be fine as well. Nothing will deter a determined housebreaker. The goal is to slow them down or make it sufficiently inconvenient that they move on. Most burglars are opportunistic not professional thieves.

Actually, I would just use a regular phillips and then overfill the heads with JB-Weld. The cost of the locking fasteners isn't worth it unless you want to be able to remove them easily. It will be a long time before that's necessary in this case.

The JB Weld idea might work. The main thing is to make it look like it's more work than what they had in mind. Maybe roundhead with JB Weld, and then sand and paint to make it look like it's a round head. She mainly wants to dissuade theft, that's about it. She lives alone and is gone 10 to 12 hours a day.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Yeah that does look good, I'll read about it more at home and see what it costs.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

There's no concern of the ne'er-do-wells going through the double doors that are not visible from the street and would thus allow for a less frantic entry attempt? Or is it the hope that the visible window bars would lead them to assume the rear of the house must be fortified, too?

As far as the fasteners, just give be a standard Phillips bit and I can make any screw tamper-proof and unremovable in seconds.

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

Down here (socal) insurance was cancelled till security bars were removed from a (then) recently aquired rental unit. You are in norcal? Check with your ins. agent

-c-

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"I applaud your elaborate system of denial"

Good point. I've discovered first hand that insurance is often more stringent than local codes.

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

I would use countersunk Philips, then jb weld and paint so the fasteners don't show.

Anything with a head sticking up can be taken off with a pair of pliers or a chisel/screwdriver/pokey thingy + hammer.

If someone really wants in they will probably just break a window in the doors, but that's kinda beside the point.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I deal with a lot of security fasteners in my line of work and the biggest problem is that you can get complete kits of bits to defeat them for under $10 at Harbor Freight tools.

I would endorse the "filled standard fastener" theory. You could even use simple auto body filler and smooth and paint it so there's no evidence of the fastener but it would be fairly easy to remove if the need should arise.

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

The Rex Key product above produces a unique head and driver. This is like locksmith grade, as unique as a key in a lock. Might be spendy, I've got a quote request in now:

Key-Rex

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Solution: high voltage.

security by claymore

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Сделать Америку великой Снова
"I always cheer up immensely if an attack is particularly wounding because I think, well, if they attack one personally, it means they have not a single political argument left." Margaret Thatcher

Id use the original and forget about it. Those are a pain in the a$$. Enough of them there is no way someone is setting up shop for an hour drilling heads

The next gen ones are as said, only as secure as ones abilty to go buy a cheap driver set.

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