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  #1  
Old 07-08-2015, 12:58 PM
Fulcrum525's Avatar
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Little help with a dryer repair....

I hate electricity.....

With that being said here is the issue. I have a POS generic Amana dryer that stopped turning on a few weeks back. I suspected that it was the timer because that normally crisp "ratcheting" sound that timers usually make stopped. (Now it just spins with an occasional click) I should mention at this point that this is a combined timer and start switch (Push to start) I ordered another switch but I think I received a used unit because it is doing the exact same thing (No clicks when you spin it)

A few other notes to help with the diagnosis.

-I tested the thermal fuse and it has continuity so no problems there.
-The machine is getting power (Inside light turns on) and the door switch functions as well.
-I put my multi-meter on the tone setting and found that when I push the switch in for "on" that I was getting connection (By miracle the previous owner left a circuit diagram that I was able to figure out)

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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet FOR SALE
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2015, 01:16 PM
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I know this sounds crazy but did you check the belt?
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2015, 01:30 PM
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Make sure the light goes out when you shut the door. There may be an interlock on the door switch that prevents it from starting.
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2015, 01:33 PM
I miss my MBZ
 
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I would expect that the timer thing itself needs power - and will have power going through certain contacts when the system is supposed to run. Can you check for 110vac (?) through the timer when you press the button ?

Also, I think that there is a relay that turns the motor on and off, check for voltage on that when you press the start button.

if the timer doesn't run on 220v, then there should be a small transformer somewhere, see if that is putting out 110v when needed.

-John
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2015, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
I know this sounds crazy but did you check the belt?
Answer this question before we proceed. Lots of them have a lever switch on the tensioner, so if the belt starts to shred or breaks, it won't start or run.
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2015, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
I know this sounds crazy but did you check the belt?
Yes the belt is intact and in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
Make sure the light goes out when you shut the door. There may be an interlock on the door switch that prevents it from starting.
Checked this as well and all seems fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel View Post
I would expect that the timer thing itself needs power - and will have power going through certain contacts when the system is supposed to run. Can you check for 110vac (?) through the timer when you press the button ?

Also, I think that there is a relay that turns the motor on and off, check for voltage on that when you press the start button.

if the timer doesn't run on 220v, then there should be a small transformer somewhere, see if that is putting out 110v when needed.

-John
I need to get the tester out but I can check. You of course assume that I know what i'm doing with a multimeter ) (I.e do I need to have the dryer plugged in to do this test?)

I see a few thermostats on the diagram but no relays
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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet FOR SALE
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2015, 09:31 PM
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Can you scan/snap/post the schematic?
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  #8  
Old 07-09-2015, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
Can you scan/snap/post the schematic?
Here you go.

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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet FOR SALE
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."
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  #9  
Old 07-09-2015, 10:47 AM
I miss my MBZ
 
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wow - the start and run relays for the motor look like they are a part of the motor...not sure what they will look like.
There is an overload inside that motor also...not sure how to test than unless you can see it and get to exposed leads inside (which you often cant)

Your meter should show continuity wherever there is a coil, so like the motor itself, or the timer motor, with the unit UNPLUGGED should show 0.5-2.0 ohms (or just beep) when you meter across a motor.

-With the unit plugged in, and the timer set to somewhere in the middle of the time scale (so that it Should run if you pressed the start button) see if you get voltage between L1 (yellow) and the Black wire that connects with the Orange wire near the timer - this will verify that you are getting voltage to the timer motor - you will need to press the start button and maybe have some alligator clips handy the leave things connected for testing while the button is pressed.

kinda weird to look at this without a real dryer to bounce the drawing off of, maybe guys here with more appliance experience than I will say where I am not doing it right.

Lastly - please be careful with 220v, be aware of your test leads and whether the machine is plugged in or not. I know I just asked you to do a live test but just keep that plug in mind or nearby...
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  #10  
Old 07-09-2015, 10:57 AM
Home appliance genius
 
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Can you post the model#?
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  #11  
Old 07-09-2015, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel View Post
wow - the start and run relays for the motor look like they are a part of the motor...not sure what they will look like.
There is an overload inside that motor also...not sure how to test than unless you can see it and get to exposed leads inside (which you often cant)

Your meter should show continuity wherever there is a coil, so like the motor itself, or the timer motor, with the unit UNPLUGGED should show 0.5-2.0 ohms (or just beep) when you meter across a motor.

-With the unit plugged in, and the timer set to somewhere in the middle of the time scale (so that it Should run if you pressed the start button) see if you get voltage between L1 (yellow) and the Black wire that connects with the Orange wire near the timer - this will verify that you are getting voltage to the timer motor - you will need to press the start button and maybe have some alligator clips handy the leave things connected for testing while the button is pressed.

kinda weird to look at this without a real dryer to bounce the drawing off of, maybe guys here with more appliance experience than I will say where I am not doing it right.

Lastly - please be careful with 220v, be aware of your test leads and whether the machine is plugged in or not. I know I just asked you to do a live test but just keep that plug in mind or nearby...

I know, the timer and start switch are integrated which makes this much harder to figure out then it otherwise would have been...... Here is a picture of the unit in question. Timer 37001240 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

I can't say that i'm competent enough to do a test with the unit plugged in but I will do the other tests tomorrow.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Can you post the model#?
Believe me I wish that it had one! (That was easy to find) All it says is Amana Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb4R-FvEKgM )

The best I was able to figure out is that its an NDG2335AWW
__________________
1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet FOR SALE
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2015, 11:41 PM
Home appliance genius
 
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Gas dryer? Set the timer to timed dry and check for 120v at the grey wire. The dryer has a hi limit fuse and a thermal fuse, both on the heater housing. Check them both for continuity. That's a good dryer, made by speed queen.
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2015, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Gas dryer? Set the timer to timed dry and check for 120v at the grey wire. The dryer has a hi limit fuse and a thermal fuse, both on the heater housing. Check them both for continuity. That's a good dryer, made by speed queen.

Opps, pasted the wrong number it's electric

Amana NDE2335AYW
__________________
1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet FOR SALE
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2015, 06:50 PM
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I still say check for 110v at the grey wire coming out of the timer, also check if there are in fact, 2 fuses.

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