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  #16  
Old 07-27-2015, 05:59 PM
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That depends on your definition of reasonable...

If you were bound and determined to do it, I'd have suggested Little Panoche rd, and then on through to the 25. It's longer, and slower, but virtually no traffic and the hills are not as steep or long. Note, "Little Panoche", not Panoche. I think it goes by some other names, maybe J1?

MV

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  #17  
Old 07-27-2015, 06:45 PM
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J1 from I-5 to the 25 goes over a 2000 ft. pass west of Panoche. Maybe it's more gradual. Terrible place to lose a radiator hose

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  #18  
Old 07-27-2015, 07:07 PM
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It is a bit lonely out there, but less so every time I go through. More houses, more ranches, more wineries... Mainly, it is less steep. The tradeoff is that it is not as direct. The lack of traffic though means you can go slow, keeping it easy on yourself and your tow vehicle.

I guess the tradeoff is if something goes wrong on the lonely backroad, it is likely to be an inconvenience. If something goes wrong over Pacheco, it is likely to be a multiple car pileup that shuts down one of the major routes on/off of the peninsula and makes the evening news. Some folks will take their fifteen minutes of fame anyway they can get it, but me? I could sure avoid that spotlight.

What is it you are towing back? You mentioned a transmission?

MV
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  #19  
Old 07-28-2015, 01:41 PM
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Ford E350.

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  #20  
Old 07-28-2015, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Rated towing capacity is 6000 lb. Does this disqualify the tow vehicle?

- How do you figure out tongue weight in the middle of nowhere? I didn't think about tongue weight towing the 450SEL.

- What's a safe downhill speed? Stay with the semis in the 35 mph lane?

- Do I need more equipment than the Tekonsha thing under the dash? I don't recall doing anything with the brakes towing the 450SEL.

- What should I know that I'm not asking?
I'd say "YES".

Weight the entire trailer. Put JUST the area the ball goes into. Take the ball weight and divide by entire weight and you want to be between 10-15%. I weighed the trailer and back it off the scales till just the ball area is on the scale, put a pipe ad support it on the scale. I'm guessing that the ideal weight at 10% should be around 800# and your hitch should be around 600#.

That far overloaded, I'd say the safe speed is 0 mph, You have to stop and that much weight might overpower the brake system which makes for a LONG day.

Depends. Does the brake controller interface with the trailer (electric brakes) or is it hydraulic?

I'd be asking for a tow company like U-ship or who can loan you a bigger truck.
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  #21  
Old 07-29-2015, 01:15 AM
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Yeah..., generally I was wondering if GVWR was more of a serving suggestion. Many passenger vehicles are over GVWR if all seats are occupied by average weight adults.

Thinking out loud, weigh the tow vehicle alone then weigh the tow vehicle hitched but with trailer wheels off the scale. Wouldn't the difference be the tongue weight?

How come no one suggested performance brake fluid? Wouldn't Motul provide a margin of fade resistance if push came to shove downhill?

Sixto
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  #22  
Old 07-29-2015, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
How come no one suggested performance brake fluid? Wouldn't Motul provide a margin of fade resistance if push came to shove downhill?

Sixto
Sure. If you add better brakes, better suspension, maybe even braided SS hose. All assuming the frame and the hitch isn't too weak, that is.

Take my Excursion for example. The later years had a bit more tow capacity in the later years. The change seems to be the larger bolts that attach it to the frame.
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  #23  
Old 07-29-2015, 02:19 AM
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From this point I'm just being argumentative.

GVWR - the manual says max trailer weight with 3.73 gears is 6500 lb. With 4.10 gears it's 8000 lb. Swap the 6.5td for a 7.4 gasser and it's 10,000 lb. I've studied the option charts and there's a brake upgrade available but the brakes on there now are standard with 4.10 gears and 7.4 engine. It seems max trailer capacity on these terms is more about getting and keeping things moving than bringing them to a stop. Can a 6.5td with 3.73 gears safely tow 8500 lb? That's up to the driver, not the vehicle.

edit - but there might be beefier hitch to handle 8500 and 10,000 lb towing. I only checked brake and cooling options.

Brake fluid - let me rephrase. I'm going down a 6% grade at 65 mph at full GVWR (no trailer). I lean on the brakes to stop as quickly as possible. Would better quality brake fluid reduce braking distance or just be less likely fade?

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  #24  
Old 07-29-2015, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
From this point I'm just being argumentative.

GVWR - the manual says max trailer weight with 3.73 gears is 6500 lb. With 4.10 gears it's 8000 lb. Swap the 6.5td for a 7.4 gasser and it's 10,000 lb. I've studied the option charts and there's a brake upgrade available but the brakes on there now are standard with 4.10 gears and 7.4 engine. It seems max trailer capacity on these terms is more about getting and keeping things moving than bringing them to a stop. Can a 6.5td with 3.73 gears safely tow 8500 lb? That's up to the driver, not the vehicle.

edit - but there might be beefier hitch to handle 8500 and 10,000 lb towing. I only checked brake and cooling options.

Brake fluid - let me rephrase. I'm going down a 6% grade at 65 mph at full GVWR (no trailer). I lean on the brakes to stop as quickly as possible. Would better quality brake fluid reduce braking distance or just be less likely fade?

Sixto
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In answer to your last question....neither, IMHO. The better brake fluid will not boil as easily if everything gets very hot. Of course if you have a long hill to go down you want to keep your speed under control by using lower gears not your brakes.

As far as your other observations, yes, you make good points. The mfgr has to consider warranty issues in addition to towing safety issues so that is reflected in the different towing capacities according to different gear ratios in the diff. The basic safety of the chassis and brakes as you observed is going to be the same in many cases, leaving the different towing capacities down to what they want to warranty.
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  #25  
Old 07-29-2015, 10:15 AM
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One thing to consider is the transmission. Does this vehicle have a 700R4? 4L60E? 4L80E? Turbo 400? Turbo 350?

Does the transmission have an auxiliary cooler?

If it's a 4 speed auto, it's best to run in 3 on the hills. The shifting in and out of the OD under full power is really hard on it.

I've towed over loaded a few times and it's best to simply have a plan for emergencies, take it easy and give yourself plenty of space to maneuver and stop.
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  #26  
Old 07-30-2015, 12:18 PM
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Engine braking increases heat in an automatic transmission more than intuition would lead you to believe. Real, real hot on long steep grades.

Think how hot your brakes would get. It takes the same amount of energy to slow you whether you use the brakes or trans.
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  #27  
Old 07-31-2015, 04:58 AM
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And using your trans is not smart. Brake pads are cheap. They're designed to stop the car.
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  #28  
Old 07-31-2015, 06:17 AM
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Using brakes on a mountain instead of the motor will have them smoking in minutes. I have tried it once.
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  #29  
Old 07-31-2015, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neanderthal View Post
And using your trans is not smart. Brake pads are cheap. They're designed to stop the car.
And when you faded the brakes, how much would you pay for a functioning set as your truck is rolling out of control?
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  #30  
Old 07-31-2015, 11:59 AM
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...And, you don't use the trans to slow the vehicle. Use the trans to keep the vehicle from gaining speed in the first place.

MV

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