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  #1  
Old 12-14-2018, 12:06 PM
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Your most difficult repair EVER.....

I was discussing a repair I have to make on a vehicle. I received a response that at least I was not fixing a ............

So I began to wonder. What was the most difficult thing I have ever repaired?

So as an example may I present changing the water pump on a 1966 Dodge van with the small V-8. The engine is between the seats, there is no room to work on the water pump without removing the radiator.... And then it got worse. Several hours later it was finished.

Any more examples?

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  #2  
Old 12-14-2018, 01:44 PM
Stretch's Avatar
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For me the most difficult thing that I actually didn't get done in the end was a DIY four wheel alignment on the W201. I've done the W123 with the string box and DIY camber gauges and it worked well but the multi-link rear suspension on the W201 it took too long and I ended up taking it to a garage (where the mechanic complained continuously about how difficult Mercedes alignment is to do)

One of these days I'll re-visit the W201 4 wheel alignment challenge and see if I can beat that beast (!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
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I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 12-14-2018, 02:19 PM
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Not really difficult as much as PIA, changing evaporator core on 123/124 cars.
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  #4  
Old 12-14-2018, 02:43 PM
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Replacing the motor mounts in my 944. You know it's going to be bad when the first step in the FSM is "remove front suspension". After that repair, I sold the Porsche, because I never wanted to go there again.

If we were just complaining about Mopar, I'd have to say replacing the bypass hose on a slant six Valiant. The hose is about three inches long, costs half a buck. But to get there, you need to remove the radiator, shroud, fan, and water pump,
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  #5  
Old 12-14-2018, 11:13 PM
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Thumbs up Not Fun Repairs

...The water pump by pass hose on 1950 ~ 1960's Ford V8 engines ~ it's about 2" long, goes between the back of the water pump and the front of the engine and you're supposed to remove the water pump but back in the day Service Stations had people pulling up to the pumps spraying boiling hot water (literally) out and you're supposed to change that damn hose on the gas island in 10 minutes and not curse because there was a Woman sitting behind the wheel telling you to hurry up gosh darn it .

Always in Summer, always in the middle of a blistering hot day .

Also Ford Y-Block V8 starters ~ the 3rd. bolt was a MF to reach, no one ever replaced it ~ I did and my boss cussed me out .

Any Journeyman Mechanic has dozens of similar stories, I look under the hood of modern cars and am glad I'm retired ~ now I only burn my hands adjusting the turbo boost pressure on hot engines......
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  #6  
Old 12-15-2018, 12:22 AM
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220 Chassis S600 Biturbo motor mounts.... without removing the engine or subframe.
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  #7  
Old 12-15-2018, 06:41 AM
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number 5 glow plug on a 617 turbo,without removing fuel pipes
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  #8  
Old 12-15-2018, 07:11 AM
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Changing the rear end on my old fintail without having the proper tools to do it including a spring compressor. It took a week of evenings plus at least one weekend.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2018, 01:25 PM
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I pulled the read end out of a finial because I needed the rear clip. Mine was rusted out.

I didn't think I would ever run out of bolts to remove. And when that first spring was finally freed, well, I'm glad I can move quickly.

A rather easy job is replacing the rear end in a 115. Out with the old and in with the new in about an hour. And in those days I was spry enough to lift that thing into place with one hand.
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2018, 09:42 PM
INSIDIOUS's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
I pulled the read end out of a finial because I needed the rear clip. Mine was rusted out.

I didn't think I would ever run out of bolts to remove. And when that first spring was finally freed, well, I'm glad I can move quickly.

A rather easy job is replacing the rear end in a 115. Out with the old and in with the new in about an hour. And in those days I was spry enough to lift that thing into place with one hand.
Personally I have never read the end of a finial ... how does the story go? he he he
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2018, 02:27 PM
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pulling oil sump on an X drive BMW to remove the shredded belt.
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2018, 04:09 PM
The Safety Geek
 
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2005 Volvo water pump on the S40 inline 5 cylinder motor. The timing belt...no problem - the water pump...about 5 hours. Just typing this makes me sad.
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  #13  
Old 12-20-2018, 01:00 AM
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Tony
 
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Did the 100k service on our Honda Odyssey. Had to make 2 tools to remove the crank pulley.
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W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2018, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony H View Post
Did the 100k service on our Honda Odyssey. Had to make 2 tools to remove the crank pulley.
I think matco or one more tool jobber makes a very meaty socket just for honda crank bolts. its very very thick walled and that weight is used as advantage when loosening the crank bolt with an impact gun.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
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  #15  
Old 12-20-2018, 01:24 PM
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Tony
 
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Thanks but I tried an impact wrench and it did not do it. I had to make one tool to hold the crank pulley-basically an inside out hollow 1 1/4" socket with a 3' long handle that braces on the floor and then the tool to remove the bolt I welded a impact socket onto a 2'long shaft(to support the downward thrust) and a 6' long handle. I had to stand on the 6' handle to remove the bolt.

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W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
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Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT
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