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Dent Repair for Wood
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Genius, I'll sock this one away in the ole' brain (I wonder what's being thrown out to make room...). Thanks!
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1963 Ford Falcon Convertible 1972 220D 4-speed 1986 190D 2.5 5-speed 1999 300D |
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Interesting! I just got a house and I'm trying to decide whether to repair my hardwood floors or go with a cheaper floating floor, id be really concerned with damaging the wood with hot steam since it is old. New wood i imagine would be a lot more pliable and resilient.
Sent from an abacus
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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What about getting the floor screened and refinished? Cheaper than getting it sanded and improves the value of the home. Plus then you know what finish is on it and can clean and protect appropriately.
Is it too worn for one of those minwax or rustoleum hardwood floor restoration products? I'd worry about the finish with this technique. Found this link the other day and it's useful for figuring out unknown finishes so you can fix them: http://woodfloordoctor.com/_how_tos/articles/cleanpt2.shtml.
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1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold] 1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto 覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧 "You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it." "What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish." |
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It's been carpeted for at least 40 years and underneath it's got lots of paint spills and marks and such. It needs a layer taken off for sure and re sanded/sealed/polished. There are also a ton of ring shank nails in it (most of which I got out but the ones stuck in the joists below are not going anywhere) which will shine up and may cause problems with a sander. We love the idea of having the original floor, and it is a beautiful oak, but lots of filler will be required. For reference, here are the nails I removed, still plenty left in joists: Sent from an abacus
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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...that'll buff out?
But seriously, maybe you can just screen it instead of sanding it down. It looks like it's got plenty of finish on it still, so you can also get someone to come in and just repair the areas with stains and revive the finish (or DIY the revival). Even if that means replacing some of the boards they can be stained to match others. You can only sand down so much before you have to replace the whole thing. It's your floor of course but I'd start with figuring out what kind of finish it is and get a small area really clean and then restore a bit. Just to see what's possible without taking layers off. It might actually come back with a wonderful patina. I wonder if it's an old wax finish on the floor. That would be awesome, super easy to deal with and bring back up. Anyway, sanding to put poly on isn't great because poly always breaks down and needs reviving every few years before it gets too bad to repair without screening. That floor looks good to me, actually. If you've got a wax finish on it then getting the paint off would be straightforward and you'd get the wax up too but could put it back down afterward. You may have different tastes than me though. I like the worn in look (too much time in Britain). The place we're moving into they put acrylic wax (Orange Glo) on the worn through and covered, but still unsound bits, of the floor. So I'm going to have to strip it off with ammonia or something and see what I've got. The owners were going to sand it until the floor guy got an injury and couldn't do it in time. So I figure I may as well try out some less involved solutions. But ****ing orange glo is the devil.
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1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold] 1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto 覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧 "You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it." "What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish." |
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Steam swelling damaged wood is a technique widely used by gunsmiths an luthiers, it works best on bare wood because most finishes form a vapor barrier on the wood's surface preventing the wood from easily absorbing the moisture.
I've seen it done by placing a cleaning patch soaked with water over the ding and then laying an electric iron with a larger spoon type blade atop the patch. Steam it up, and repeat as necessary. Damage with a sharp edge where the fibers have been severed don't always "heal" enough to be "invisible" for a perfect repair but lesser more generalized "bruising" responds pretty well on most woods. The "ringshank" nails were probably added because the floor was squeaking more than they could stand and they were laying carpeting over the floor so appearances probably didn't matter. If you'll do more damage trying to removing any you could alternatively use a nail set or a punch to drive the nail deeper into the floor and then fill the hole afterwards. You can make your own custom wood filler by mixing some fine wood dust from the floor in question with epoxy. Lots of dust and just enough epoxy to hold it together, that way after you fill the hole and sand it smooth the plug will accept stain and finish very similar to the surrounding intact wood, so you can avoid visual imperfections that some more generic store bought fillers can impart because their composition is different than the surrounding floor boards. Looks like whoever shot those "ringshank" nails was a craftsman at heart though, looks like they were pretty darn consistent in getting each nail centered in each of the boards as they did it! Last edited by BatteredBenz; 08-19-2015 at 01:11 AM. |
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__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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Unfortunately I can't drive them in as they have a fairly large head, and drilling doesn't seem to get anywhere. I have a good set of Milwaukee carbide bits that hardly took the metal down. The only way I was able to get these out was to go into the basement and knock them up (which is why the ones left are stuck in the joists). The actual refinishing of the floor doesn't bother me at all, and seems pretty straightforward. Sent from an abacus
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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PS the nails you've got are not ring shanked the are hardened spiral shank, they where probably coated, they are mostly used for things like building pallets and trusses, almost always shot from a pneumatic gun because they are nearly impossible to drive hand nailing. |
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The 3 1/2" ones they use for pallets are coated with an adhesive that heats up from the friction when driven and when the pallets are oak, no one is ever removing them without destroying the board.
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The battered man is correct. Heavy dents often involve a bit of fiber tearing, and are not ameliorated fully with steam. But the steam method works well often enough to be worth a try. Sometimes it works very well but I've never seen it as perfect as in the OP photos. I suspect the older the dent, the less likely it will be improved.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K Last edited by cmac2012; 08-19-2015 at 02:48 AM. |
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Removing the nails completely didn't really help anything from a cosmetic view point because there are still holes to fill. And now if the floor does get noisy that will need to be ignored of fixed some how also! Kind of reminds me of the scene from the movie COLORS with Penn and Duvall, The story of the old bull and the young bull standing on the hill looking out over the herd of cows. The young bull says " I'm gonna run down there are **** me one of those fine young heifers, and the old bull says, " I think I'll walk down there and **** all those fine young heifers!" I suspect TBO got the idea nail heads were a problem and maybe when figuring out what to do about it started to see what could be done about it. Started fooling around to see if a nail could be removed, and it just ran from that point to where it is now. Just maybe never thought why the nails would be there or if he did what could be the potential results if they were removed. Get a good punch, even have one made by a machinist, have it hardened and tempered make it the size of the nail head. get one of those seats on casters, a three pound drilling hammer and a good glove for the hand holding the punch. Scoot along and drive every nail at least a 1/4" deep. Bang one good shot, you don't want the punch walking around on that nail head bending it sideways, that just makes stuff worse, bigger crazy holes. Last edited by BatteredBenz; 08-19-2015 at 03:42 AM. |
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