Planning new shop/garage - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

P.C. · #16 09-23-2019, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony H

I need to create some basic 2D drawings for my pre-application meeting with the city-a site plan and some elevations/floor plans. On the site plan I would like to be able to determine to total sq' or lot coverage of different surfaces. The city needs to know the percent of lot covered by various surfaces such as driveway, landscaping etc. It would be difficult to measure these areas since they are odd shapes. Anyone used some freeware that does this? I see lots of stuff on the net but reluctant to install some random software on my machine. There might already be something in Win10-I need to look deeper.

Sounds like your city is trying to determine how much permeable ground will be rendered impermeable by your proposed improvements. What requirements/limits does your city have in this regard? Retention ponds can take all the fun out of a DIY project....

Tony H · #17 09-24-2019, 12:25 PM

Yes I'm very close to the Ocean and run off is a concern. I can cover 1/2 our lot with improvements. The lot is .5ac so plenty of room but due to the lot shape and a few setback/CCR issues the space left is not large. There is a on site disposal system for the rainwater that takes up some space. It's all underground but I can't build on/near it. We landscaped over it though. There is also a underground propane tank the PO had installed with no thought to future building. In spite of all that I can still build a 20x40 shop with the guest house.

Tony H · #18 10-16-2019, 11:21 PM

Hit a snag with the rainwater disposal system. The drywell does not have the excess capacity for the structure I wish to build. I'm trying to contact the engineer that designed the system but that was 12 years ago. At the very least the drywell will need to be dug up and rebuilt/enlarged The drywell will only support an additional 325sq ft-much smaller than I had in mind.

dieselmania · #19 10-16-2019, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony H

It can't be the DIY stuff sold at home stores-it needs to be hardwired to conform to new construction. If anyone has experience with hardwired linkable LED lighting I would love to hear it.

What code are you trying to conform with, as long as the ceiling receptacles are GFCI protected there is no national code that prohibits plug and cord connected lighting.

I built my garage/shop about 6 years ago and have done a couple of modifications since, one being a 20x11 commercial roll up door, another being MORE OUTLETS. It's past my bed time right now but I will get back to you with ideas on lighting and electrical, being a licensed electrical contractor I did all my own.

Question, are you going to use drywall, plywood, or both on walls and ceilings?

Antony · #20 10-17-2019, 10:56 AM

I would suggest 4,000psi concrete for the floor. It gives you peace of mind that the floor will support anything you may want to jack up. It's not much more than 3,500psi, so if you're pouring the floor, it would be something to consider.

Tony H · #21 10-18-2019, 12:49 AM

All surfaces drywall. I had assumed ceiling fixtures needed to be hardwired. I have a large list of questions for the building inspector-he is willing to spend some time. I'm sure many of my questions will be answered by the design professional that does the plans.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselmania

What code are you trying to conform with, as long as the ceiling receptacles are GFCI protected there is no national code that prohibits plug and cord connected lighting.

I built my garage/shop about 6 years ago and have done a couple of modifications since, one being a 20x11 commercial roll up door, another being MORE OUTLETS. It's past my bed time right now but I will get back to you with ideas on lighting and electrical, being a licensed electrical contractor I did all my own.

Question, are you going to use drywall, plywood, or both on walls and ceilings?

Tony H · #22 10-18-2019, 12:51 AM

Thanks for the tip-I will run that by my concrete contractor when the time comes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Antony

I would suggest 4,000psi concrete for the floor. It gives you peace of mind that the floor will support anything you may want to jack up. It's not much more than 3,500psi, so if you're pouring the floor, it would be something to consider.

t walgamuth · #23 10-18-2019, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony H

Hit a snag with the rainwater disposal system. The drywell does not have the excess capacity for the structure I wish to build. I'm trying to contact the engineer that designed the system but that was 12 years ago. At the very least the drywell will need to be dug up and rebuilt/enlarged The drywell will only support an additional 325sq ft-much smaller than I had in mind.

Maybe cheaper to add a dry well and have two.

t walgamuth · #24 10-18-2019, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony H

Hit a snag with the rainwater disposal system. The drywell does not have the excess capacity for the structure I wish to build. I'm trying to contact the engineer that designed the system but that was 12 years ago. At the very least the drywell will need to be dug up and rebuilt/enlarged The drywell will only support an additional 325sq ft-much smaller than I had in mind.

Maybe cheaper to add a dry well and have two.

I've been thinking of adding on a structure to my garage tall enough to get a car up so I can walk under it and work. It seems simpler to just send it to the Indy but that adds up soon to the cost of a lift. With the lift I could do a lot of it by myself.

engatwork · #25 10-18-2019, 12:59 PM

Do what you got to do to get a lift Tom. It will be the best purchase you will ever make for shop. You can get a good, two post asymetrical lift for under $4k. There are requirements for slab thickness so look into that too.

vwnate1 · #26 10-18-2019, 02:49 PM

At least a 4,000 # floor .

Hoists are cheap to buy new, there's always one or five lying around from some shop that bought but never installed it .

Take your time and research .

A rich guy I know bought the # 1 two post hoist in America and after a year or two it failed as it was lifting his truck, it turned out someone in the manufacturing phase didn't bother to weld one side's lift arms , they just had a couple tack welds from the initial jig set up .

Fully painted and with inspection stickers, he'd been using it a while on light imports, good thing it failed before the truck was high enough for him to have walked under neath it....

dieselmania · #27 10-18-2019, 10:16 PM

When I did mine I opted for 5" thickness on the slab and a rebar grid 2 feet OC. The strength was 3,000 PSI. The ground is very hard out here, and it never freezes. 8 years later after parking a 13,000 lb and a 9,000 lb truck in there no cracks at all. I didn't know to ask for 4,000 PSI but it looks like I didn't need it anyway. My slab was right at 1,000 square feet, the building is five sided to fit my corner lot which gives me a nice work area next to the trucks.

t walgamuth · #28 10-18-2019, 11:36 PM

Thanks guys!

Tony H · #29 10-18-2019, 11:39 PM

I had considered having the floor designed to accommodate a lift if I should ever want one. I don't think it would add much to the project. The ceiling is not going to be high-maybe 9'. I don't want the scale of the building to overwhelm the house as it is in our backyard.
The drywell system has to be designed by a Engineer. I'm hoping to get in touch with the engineer that designed the project but he has moved on. It would save having the entire system re engineered. We just landscaped the area that will need to be excavated:-(

barry12345 · #30 10-19-2019, 05:38 PM

I want to put bubble insulation under the slab or foam board. On a new project. I think I might just let the concrete touch the gravel in the area of a potential hoist. I always wire mesh floors.

I put 1 1/2 or two inches of the stiffer foam with radiant floor heat. In the houses attached garage. No cracks or issues with that floor. If a person contemplates working in a garage. A heated floor is nice. The farther north it is the nicer it is.

Even if you can not put in twelve foot walls for esthetic reasons. I would try for nine feet and one of those lifts that can raise a car three feet. They are portable as well I believe.