Toilet shim? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Sugar Bear · #16 07-26-2020, 09:46 AM

One benefit to the plastic funnel and foam type is that it attaches to the flange and holds the bolts so all you need to do is line up the holes and set it on. It can be repositioned endlessly.

cmac2012 · #17 07-26-2020, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

One benefit to the plastic funnel and foam type is that it attaches to the flange and holds the bolts so all you need to do is line up the holes and set it on. It can be repositioned endlessly.

I'll have to look for that type, don't think I'm familiar with it.

Sugar Bear · #18 07-26-2020, 02:48 PM

Sani Seal Waxless Toilet Gasket - Sani Seal Waxless Toilet Gasket

t walgamuth · #19 07-26-2020, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

Sani Seal Waxless Toilet Gasket - Sani Seal Waxless Toilet Gasket

I like the looks of that. Where do they sell it?

Sugar Bear · #20 07-26-2020, 06:25 PM

Got it @ True Value.

cmac2012 · #21 07-26-2020, 09:49 PM

Come to think of it, I might have seen that or something like it at Home Depot. Didn't explore it much - old dog, new tricks - but that does look interesting.

t walgamuth · #22 07-27-2020, 09:27 AM

Thanks all for sharing your experiences!

vwnate1 · #23 07-27-2020, 07:34 PM

Wow ;

Once again the entire brain trust (with the single usual exception) not only diagnoses the problems but explains it all very clearly and gives useful suggestions and commentary .

My brother's Man Cave has a wobbly toilet way in the back, it's a rental so he won't fool with it until we're walking in dukey water but so far so good....

t walgamuth · #24 07-27-2020, 09:03 PM

This place is great! As you said a brain trust. Back when I was working on my cars in high school and college I had my dad for advice. In college I had the guy in the next trailer, Henry, who came out when I had oily bits lying on the ground working on them and would watch quietly and when I got stuck he'd say something like "tap there"... and voila it would come apart.

Then there were chiltons and Haynes. But nothing like here. YOu have a few thousand neighbors, step dads and uncles around to help figure things out.

Fun!

vwnate1 · #25 07-27-2020, 10:00 PM

..And an idiot who lost his village .

Yes, having someone who knows what's going on is always really helpful .

I give tech help to folks around the world but not so much on Mercedes' .

INSIDIOUS · #26 07-27-2020, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac2012

I was the cowboy, going all macho for years placing the toilet over the wax, or over the hole if I pressed the wax on the toilet first, just freestyling it. Trouble is if you botch it slightly, you can't see it, the wax can get squished wrong. Had to redo one once because of that. The plywood method takes the worry away. Just need to be careful when you remove the pieces. I'd use a wonderbar to lift the end(s) up gently and take one piece at a time out. You can do it without shifting position.

freestyling it on the terlit! Now thems is the good old days

barry12345 · #27 07-28-2020, 09:50 AM

I always read Tom's toilet issue threads. Usually picking up some ideal here or there. I was just thinking. There is little doubt the majority will continue to use wax based seals.

I never remember thinking about it before. I suspect you want the toilet flange and toilet bone dry where the wax contacts. When you install a seal. The wax can stick like crazy on a dry surface but probably does not do as well on a wet or damp one.

Why I like the wax seal with a funnel moulded in. It is usually only a dollar more and if you line is free flowing I do not think you can ever develop a flange leak. Or it reduces the possibility at least.

The other I think convention on a drainage line is a 1/4 inch per foot based on the ideal of leaving no solids behind. This leaves no allowance for line settling in for example in soil. So it is imperative to use gravel as the leveling agent on the settled soil to get and hopefully maintain your grade.

Pre leveling with dirt will get you into trouble probably. So decades ago I also increased the grading to at least 1/2 inch per foot as well. Where that option existed.

I have never had a line problem errupt that I installed it.

I also got lucky when I replaced a toilet in the lower washroom off the family room. Last year. I purchased one that is about two inches higher seat wise. Since I installed it on a line that I have had for forty years. I was really impressed by the flushing action and very low water usage.

It does even better than the old high water volume toilet that it replaced. I do not know if the small elevation increased the syphon effect or not but it is even better than the old American standard unit. When they were producing decent units. At clearing the bowl.

So if I had a situation with a possible slow flow and not the best action with a toilet. I might use this model of elevated seat. I will use them anyways as it is a little strange having different toilet seat heights in the same House. Water flow is not metered here as we are on a well. So water usage is of no concern.

On the older toilets the syphon seems to be initiated by the increased volume of water in the bowl. Where on this slightly elevated one the water flow through the hole at the front of the bowl neck. Seems to more forcefully start the syphon. In any event the syphon effect seems to be substantially stronger. Both are driven by gravity of course but you can see the difference. Just my two cents worth.

I think my primary point if ever building with a slab and drainage lines under it. Get involved with making sure the lines are installed right. As you are aware to dig them out at sometime. If they settle or whatever is a real messy pain. Personally from experience myself I want more than a quarter of an inch per foot constant drop to start with. If I could not get it I would elevate the slab.

I have seen far too many slab jobs with line problems to not do this. I also have never had an issue with solids left behind either by doing it my way ever. So to me drainage of only liquids is okay with the standard elevation drop. I really do not like to see a toilet struggling to work against a bad line situation.

Maybe I break the old fixed rule and get away with it. As the plastic waste lines are far smoother than the old cast iron lines.

vwnate1 · #28 07-28-2020, 11:45 AM

I've been using those slightly taller toilets for a long time now, they're called 'handicapped' and most places have them if you ask .

Easier on the old knees too .

barry12345 · #29 07-28-2020, 09:11 PM

Since acquiring it we feel almost like we fall the last way to the toilet seat. On standard toilets. We have no physical handicap issues and even children do not seem to have any problem with the higher toilet.

I just took a tape measure and checked the difference. The normal toilet is 14 1/4 inch from the floor to the rim. The higher toilet is 16 1/4. So it is interesting that the two inches make that much difference to you sitting down.

People are generally surprised that we also have two toilets in the cottage. The upstairs one is in a small area somewhat larger than a closet with a sink as well and that is it.

I have explained more than once if someone is in the shower and they really need relief. That is why I tucked a very small facility upstairs. Also it is very convenient for nighttime as it avoids going downstairs if the need arises. Cost and space needed are really minimal. Compared to the convenience.

Would I recommend different height toilets in the same house? I do not think so. Technically you could catch your nuts in the sudden last two inch kind of unexpected drop if you were off center. On the so called normal ones.

I know that does not sound too logical but I have experienced it. Being the drop not with the nutcracker episode involved as well. . At least not yet.

That higher toilet does not develop the typical; obvious swirl as it is flushed. Other than some small evidence very low down well after the bowl has cleared. The whole action in the bowl is very fast until it reaches that point as well. As soon as the flush starts it blows the waste out through the neck. There does not seem to be enough time to establish the water rotating in the bowl after words. There is very little whirlpool effect. Personally I think the toilet was well designed. I am going to keep buying this model. It also has the two button variable volume flush on the tank. I did make certain the repair parts are easily available for the two button variable flush function. Before I purchased it.

I suspect this model is sold all over north America in the large building supply places. Should be easy to identify with the flush buttons center in the tank top and the distance to the toilet bowl rim of 16 1/4 inches. Well at times I feel mentally handicapped stlll I like this model toilet. It does not build up to a flush as there are ineficiencies with that. It starts by blowing the waste out through the trap instantly starting a very strong syphon that is not diminished with the whirlpool effect. That actually slows down the action with the centrifical force effect as well.

vwnate1 · #30 07-29-2020, 04:02 PM

? Round or elongated bowl ? .

I prefer the elongated bowl, easier to clear the rim as you mentioned .

I also discovered "Quiet Close" seats and SWMBO simply loves them, she's they typ who gets upset when our Foster boys slam the lid or seat....

Yes, the flushing action is very different, what the others were talking about when they mentioned "jet" before .

Not a whole lot of swirling going on and this saves a lot of water .

A 1/2 bath upstairs is IMO, a wonderful thing .

I only have one bathroom, I'd love to add a 1/2 bath (toilet & small sink) to my service porch ~ I once lived in a house like that, you actually had to go outside to use it but when I was working on my junk it was very nice plus not stinking up the house....