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#61
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#62
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https://youtu.be/CBK6ACbvF9c WAG my man Ky might need $1k for that job. But you make a good point. I previously welded in my own CATs with ugly welds. Can’t do that at this time, that job’s about a $700 bill these days. Would be nice to avoid premature death.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K Last edited by cmac2012; 08-25-2022 at 04:22 PM. |
#63
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This thing weighs about 6000 pounds and the 5.0 does push it around pretty well. No need to be greedy. If if I had Jay Leno’s garage and money I might put in one of those Chevy diesel’s I’ve heard about it, not the 6.2, I forget what it’s called, but I’ve heard incredible stories about them.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#64
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I don’t regret the random parts replacing I did, just for my own entertainment and maybe others here’s a list of the parts: Plugs, cap n rotor, cables, air filter. Ran a lot better for a week. Coil, fuel filter, O2 sensor, EGR plus solenoid. About two months ago I put in front rotors, calipers, bearings, and pads. Also a starter, it was clearly going. The front brake had been seizing now and then making a hell of a racket, then one of them went metal on metal, turns out the other side was close to that. I want to do the rear brakes and new drums, maybe new slave cylinders as well. I think the rears do a little bit of seizing and shuttering on occasion, just when cold but it’s a PITA. Not sure if a new master cylinder is advised, but if I had four new wheel cylinders, a new master plus major system flush would be pretty wild. A new TBI would be another upgrade I would think. After that if I put in new rear bearings, this thing will be a happening rig. OTOH, there is merit to the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” point of view.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K Last edited by cmac2012; 08-25-2022 at 05:04 PM. |
#65
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If It's Not Broken, FIX IT UNTIL IT IS !!!!
That video is pretty good, you don't need an air compressor, just 3' of cheap cloth rope, twirl it in the open spark plug hole then rotate the engine by hand until the piston comes up and jambs against the valves.....
Before you do that I highly suggest you personally checking the spark plug gaps as they're always too narrow out of the box and your HEI should easily work .045" gaps...... More spark = better combustion . My old 1976 GMC pickup burned so much oil it fouled the spark plugs in 200 miles, after sharply tuning it and opening the plug gaps it _flew_ through the SMOG test ~ so clean in fact they had me bring it to a "TEST ONLY" SMOG station when once again it easily passed . Here in California the holy grail is anything 1974 and older . In pickups it's the short beds . OI agree, if you like it DON'T SCRAP IT . I didn't bother asking about that old van because I didn't want the damn thing, not even free . I have to be careful as too many want me to tow away any old dead vehicle .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#66
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They were talking about top dead center. Does that work whether it’s the exhaust or combustion stroke? I mean does it matter which stroke it is? Seems like it would.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#67
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LOL. Now you tell us ! You got stuck with one of them there 4 cycle jobbers. The 2 cycles are way better. Sure you have to mix oil, but they sound like a chain saw
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#68
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I had a cousin of a two stroke automobile one time. A 1967 Saab 96 with a four stroke Ford V4. Formerly used in forklifts. Several years before that it was powered by a three cylinder two-stroke. You had to be careful you didn’t melt the pistons or something. Never even heard one run, let alone drive or rode in one. I gather they were a handful to deal with, had some sort of freewheeling feature.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#69
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Old SAABS & TDC
Oh yeah ~ Pops bought a brand new SAAB station wagon in.....1964 ? something like that, it had the two cycle engine and didn't have any method to inject the two cycle oil like all Yamaha Motos did at that time, every time you filled it with gasoline you had to pour oil in the fuel tank an d bounce the car by the rear bumper to make it mix .
It didn't sound too weird as it was well muffled . The free wheeling as nice, it allowed clutchless up shifts but also could kill you going down steep hills . Since one is expected to replace both vale stem oil seals oer cylinder at the same time, I'd use TDC instead of the exhaust or intake strokes, might as well hold both valves closed .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#70
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I have a quizzical for you. The gaskets under and above the tbi housing (can) how do they look as to condition? The upper is the air filter housing gasket and easily sourced for under 2$ ( plush shipping if your local peeps don't stock it)
But what is up with that lower leaky thing? Is that a rubber o-ring? what is the part numba fo dat? |
#71
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Not sure what you mean by lower leaky thing. Did I say something about that, I forget?
A few years ago I got the throttlebody repair kit and went through the procedure. There were a couple of steps that I was unsure about, just did not make sense, and I couldn’t find any info to help me, so I put it together best I could figure and it ran well. The gaskets that you speak of were included of course. Still I wonder if I should go for a major renewal in that department. Here is something from our friends with perhaps the catchiest TV jingle ever: I think I will ask my mechanic buddy his advice. I am getting less and less inclined to tackling complicated jobs for the first time ever. A lot of stuff I will still do, and I’m not opposed to a learning curve, I just hate being in the middle of something and really feeling like I’m spending hours and hours to F it up.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K Last edited by cmac2012; 09-22-2022 at 12:09 AM. Reason: good? That word did not belong there. |
#72
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TDC exhaust or compression works but compression is best because it makes more room for error when adjusting the valves as the cam is on the base circle. TDC compression can be determined by putting #1 at TDC and then moving the crank slightly in either direction.
No rocker arm movement = #1 on compression stroke, movement = #1 on exhaust stroke and #6 on compression stroke.
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
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