Taking the BMW to the track any tips? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 10-19-2002, 11:00 PM

Well I think I'm ready to take my car out to Bithlow the local drag strip. I will only get one or two runs so I want to get some tips on what to do. I can stay with little Hondas and such so I may try some bracket racing latter on.
Thanks
PS

I have plans to race a GT mustange with 4k in suspension and drive train work

engatwork · #2 10-20-2002, 07:25 AM

Don't wait for the green light to come on before you nail it or you will be WAY slow off the light. You will have to run the car a couple/few times to get the feel for it and see how the car starts from a dead stop. Also, are you going to start bringing the revs up while holding the brake pedal? This will make a difference in what kind of start you get. When I ran my E320 a couple times I did not hold the brake pedal while bringing the revs up and found that I could let off of the brake and nail the gas about the time the second yellow light came on. On the same hand, the later in the day it gets you have to vary your takeoff time slightly. For some reason the lights seem alittle brighter and it makes it easier to redlight - or it did for me anyway.

#3 10-20-2002, 08:11 AM

I will have to work on my launchs then because this car launchs kind of odd because the clutch is worn. I can't do heal toe because my foot is to big and nails all of the pedals with most shoes.

I think I will hear about it from everyone but I will proably run lik 17-19 .25 mile times if I'm lucky

engatwork · #4 10-20-2002, 08:36 AM

The E320 was good for a flat 16 secs at 90 mph - this was without reving/holding the brake. I never did get where I needed to be with the light/start though - that part takes practice.

Kuan · #5 10-20-2002, 08:36 AM

Dan, do you have an SCCA novice license?

Kuan

jsmith · #6 10-20-2002, 09:32 AM

dan,

heel and toe is used is for down shifting you're not gonna need it at the dragstrip. you'll have to find how high you're gonna rev it before you pop the clutch. if your clutch is worn, i guess you are resigned to replacing it because this sort of activity is going to do it in for sure. that's gotta be a big-ticket item on a bimmer...

#7 10-20-2002, 07:34 PM

No SCCA liesnces. They have nothing to do with this event. It's just a thing they do to keep kids from racing on the streets.
I think I get the best launchs around 2500-4k. I'm sure it is ganna kill my clutch I would like to just make two runs and then I will be happy to replace it. (but I will probaly run it untill the clutch is gone). It's not cheap it will cost about 250-300 for a new clutch kit.
I ment the heal toe for braking and reving at the same time as engatwork suggested.
Well thanks I'm going to tun it up look into the clutch and see what I can do when we get to the track.
PS
I'm taking all my stereo stuff out as well as my tool box because that is a lot of extra weight with me already in there.

engatwork · #8 10-20-2002, 07:47 PM

Dan, now that I know it is a manual then no, you will not need to hold the brake/gas at the same time. All you will want to do is bring the rpm up and about the time the last yellow light comes on, dump the clutch and nail it. How the car takes off on full throttle WITHOUT spinning the back tires will determine how much throttle you can give it prior to dumping the clutch. Rear wheel spin is NOT a good thing. You need to put that power to the ground to get a good launch. If you have never done it before you will get butterflys EVERY time you make a run

. Just try to concentrate on the light, gas pedal and throttle action.

You will be running a .500 tree (the closer to .500 seconds you cross the beam the better - .500 second reaction time is perfect). Make sure you bring your slip with you and let us know your times after you run but by all means HAVE FUN. One other thing - you have to wear long pants when you race so make sure you have some on or with you.

#9 10-20-2002, 07:54 PM

I know I will have butterflies big time. I hope I can get in under 20 seconds.
Why do they make you ware pants?
You also have to be over 18 but they do not check that from what I hear.

jsmith · #10 10-20-2002, 09:50 PM

the procedure that you mistook for heel and toe is called "brake torquing", used on automatics only. you step on the brake with your left foot and rev it up with your right foot on the gas.

you can still get ok times without clutch-killing 4000rpm-drop-your-clutch takeoffs. that's how R&T does their 0-60 tests, and that's why their figures for manual tranny's are always a little slower than the competing rags. you gotta be quick with all your other shifts though...

#11 10-21-2002, 09:51 PM

Or Power braking I did it a few times in the Suburban we had.
I'm not to quick with my shifts largley cause I'm huge compared to the car but I can get pretty quick when I want to.

I will post my slips It will be at least 2 or 3 weeks

#12 10-21-2002, 11:47 PM

Wise man say: "Rev it to 6 grand, dump the clutch....and hold on!"

-Sam

william rogers · #13 10-22-2002, 01:07 AM

take off anything that's easy to remove,back seat.spare tire,1/8th tank fuel.might hire a retired jockey to drive.play with the timing,tire pressure and different brands of fuel......
William Rogers..........

The Warden · #14 10-22-2002, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mbz380se
Wise man say: "Rev it to 6 grand, dump the clutch....and hold on!"

Johnson & Johnson's "No More Clutch"...

Could be worse; a guy I know learned how to drive a clutch in his dad's Ranger...and still can't back the mini-pinkup up a hill without putting severe wear on the clutch...I mean bad enough to smell it...

#15 10-22-2002, 04:29 PM

I will take out the spare my subs but I would like to keep my tool box with me maybe I will just bring what I may need. Ya I heard every extra 100 pounds ads a lot of time not sure the exact amounts. Maybe I have some motivation to lose some more wieght now