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#1
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Using paint thinner to clean wood?
Hello!
Quick question. I've got some pieces of wood that I'm assembling together and will be painting. I, however, have sanded the pieces down, so there's sawdust all over the pieces. On metal, I've been told to wipe down the pieces with lacquer thinner prior to painting, and that that would make the surface completely clean. Does this go for wood as well? Or do I risk damaging the wood? Obviously, the thinner needs to dry completely before painting (I'll probably use the thinner tonight, then join the pieces and let them sit overnight, and paint tomorrow), but is this safe/a good idea? Thanks in advance! |
#2
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I always clean a freshly sanded wood floor with mineral spirits before staining and polyurethaning. I know that Minwax wood conditioner sold for that purpose is just straight mineral spirits.
I don't know about laquer thinner but I'm inclined to think that is more for metal parts.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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Mineral Spirits. Make sure its well ventillated, and a complete abscense of sparks and flame. Unless you are making smores.
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#4
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On bare wood I would not use a thinner, it will likely raise the grain and you'll have to sand it more.
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#5
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MTI, then, what would be the best way to get the sawdust from the sanding off the wood? A dry towel or a small whisk broom won't get it all, at least in my experience
Not trying to challenge you; just, I want to make sure that this paint sticks properly...I don't want to have to do this again. Thanks! |
#6
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You want to use a tack rag or a air compressor and blow it off.
This is a tack rag. http://www.thesuperhandyman.com/tackrag.html The tack rag is very good. I also use my compressor and blow gun to remove a lot of sawdust. If you are painting the wood then blowing it off should be sufficent. Of course depending on the wood will determine your paint application and preperation. some exotic woods have oil in them and must be treated prior to application of water based paints. Normal wood, pine, oak, ash, etc usually don't require unusual prep work. Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#7
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Quote:
If you use mineral spirits, use it lightly and give it enough time to dry before you paint or stain, especially if you're going to use water-based paint or stain. Mike
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_____ 1979 300 SD 350,000 miles _____ 1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy _____ 1985 300TD 270,000 miles _____ 1994 E320 not my favorite, but the wife wanted it www.myspace.com/mikemover www.myspace.com/openskystudio www.myspace.com/speedxband www.myspace.com/openskyseparators www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic |
#8
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Depends on what you are putting on. If you are using water base paint, you need to "raise the grain" and remove the fuzz first, anyway.
What I do: Wipe down with a damp rag -- wet enough to dampen the surface but not wet enough to leave much if any water visible. Allow to dry (couple of hours is enough). WIPE over surface with VERY find sandpaper (I use some of that endless supply of sample 3M 0.5 um polishing paper my brother got a couple years ago). Scotchbrite, the finest you can get, will work to. You only want to remove the fur that pops up from the wood fiber swelling, not remove any material (or the fibers will pop up again). Once over, in grain direction, will do it. Wipe off with a tack rag (you can make one by putting some thinned varnish on a hunk of cheescloth and kneading it) to pull off any dust no yet removed. Don't leave any varnish or tack compound behind. Finish with desired finish. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#9
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Thank you all again
The paint I'm using is a spraypaint called "Painter's Touch" from Rustoleum, and is meant to go on wood or metal and is meant for indoor/outdoor use. I'm not sure if it's water-based or oil-based; I can't find it on the label. I think I'll just blow it off with compressed air and hope that's good enough...I'm on a budget with this project, so getting the varnish, cheesecloth, etc to make the tack cloth won't be easy from that standpoint. |
#10
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If you really want to clean it use oxcylic acid.
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