Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > General Discussions > Off-Topic Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-08-2004, 08:35 PM
The Warden's Avatar
Certified diesel nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pacifica (SF Bay Area), CA
Posts: 2,946
Question Using paint thinner to clean wood?

Hello!

Quick question. I've got some pieces of wood that I'm assembling together and will be painting. I, however, have sanded the pieces down, so there's sawdust all over the pieces.

On metal, I've been told to wipe down the pieces with lacquer thinner prior to painting, and that that would make the surface completely clean. Does this go for wood as well? Or do I risk damaging the wood?

Obviously, the thinner needs to dry completely before painting (I'll probably use the thinner tonight, then join the pieces and let them sit overnight, and paint tomorrow), but is this safe/a good idea?

Thanks in advance!

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-08-2004, 09:50 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
I always clean a freshly sanded wood floor with mineral spirits before staining and polyurethaning. I know that Minwax wood conditioner sold for that purpose is just straight mineral spirits.

I don't know about laquer thinner but I'm inclined to think that is more for metal parts.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-08-2004, 11:12 PM
moparmike's Avatar
You will rue this day...
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 732
Mineral Spirits. Make sure its well ventillated, and a complete abscense of sparks and flame. Unless you are making smores.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-09-2004, 01:04 AM
MTI's Avatar
MTI MTI is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 10,626
On bare wood I would not use a thinner, it will likely raise the grain and you'll have to sand it more.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-09-2004, 01:15 AM
The Warden's Avatar
Certified diesel nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pacifica (SF Bay Area), CA
Posts: 2,946
MTI, then, what would be the best way to get the sawdust from the sanding off the wood? A dry towel or a small whisk broom won't get it all, at least in my experience

Not trying to challenge you; just, I want to make sure that this paint sticks properly...I don't want to have to do this again.

Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-09-2004, 01:50 AM
dmorrison's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Colleyville, Texas
Posts: 2,695
You want to use a tack rag or a air compressor and blow it off.

This is a tack rag.

http://www.thesuperhandyman.com/tackrag.html

The tack rag is very good. I also use my compressor and blow gun to remove a lot of sawdust. If you are painting the wood then blowing it off should be sufficent. Of course depending on the wood will determine your paint application and preperation. some exotic woods have oil in them and must be treated prior to application of water based paints. Normal wood, pine, oak, ash, etc usually don't require unusual prep work.

Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-09-2004, 09:54 AM
mikemover's Avatar
All-seeing, all-knowing.
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 5,514
Quote:
Originally posted by dmorrison
You want to use a tack rag or a air compressor and blow it off.

This is a tack rag.

http://www.thesuperhandyman.com/tackrag.html

The tack rag is very good. I also use my compressor and blow gun to remove a lot of sawdust. If you are painting the wood then blowing it off should be sufficent. Of course depending on the wood will determine your paint application and preperation. some exotic woods have oil in them and must be treated prior to application of water based paints. Normal wood, pine, oak, ash, etc usually don't require unusual prep work.

Dave
I've painted and stained lots of wood....dmorrison's suggestion is right on target.

If you use mineral spirits, use it lightly and give it enough time to dry before you paint or stain, especially if you're going to use water-based paint or stain.

Mike
__________________
_____
1979 300 SD
350,000 miles
_____
1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy
_____
1985 300TD
270,000 miles
_____
1994 E320
not my favorite, but the wife wanted it

www.myspace.com/mikemover
www.myspace.com/openskystudio
www.myspace.com/speedxband
www.myspace.com/openskyseparators
www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-09-2004, 01:45 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Depends on what you are putting on. If you are using water base paint, you need to "raise the grain" and remove the fuzz first, anyway.

What I do:

Wipe down with a damp rag -- wet enough to dampen the surface but not wet enough to leave much if any water visible. Allow to dry (couple of hours is enough). WIPE over surface with VERY find sandpaper (I use some of that endless supply of sample 3M 0.5 um polishing paper my brother got a couple years ago). Scotchbrite, the finest you can get, will work to. You only want to remove the fur that pops up from the wood fiber swelling, not remove any material (or the fibers will pop up again). Once over, in grain direction, will do it.

Wipe off with a tack rag (you can make one by putting some thinned varnish on a hunk of cheescloth and kneading it) to pull off any dust no yet removed. Don't leave any varnish or tack compound behind.

Finish with desired finish.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-09-2004, 09:53 PM
The Warden's Avatar
Certified diesel nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pacifica (SF Bay Area), CA
Posts: 2,946
Thank you all again

The paint I'm using is a spraypaint called "Painter's Touch" from Rustoleum, and is meant to go on wood or metal and is meant for indoor/outdoor use. I'm not sure if it's water-based or oil-based; I can't find it on the label.

I think I'll just blow it off with compressed air and hope that's good enough...I'm on a budget with this project, so getting the varnish, cheesecloth, etc to make the tack cloth won't be easy from that standpoint.

Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-10-2004, 11:28 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Saugus, CA USA
Posts: 2,042
If you really want to clean it use oxcylic acid.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page