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  #16  
Old 08-16-2007, 10:35 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
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LOL, there's a nice '87 GN that sports a TT 6.6L Duramax motor out there.
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2007, 11:28 AM
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Mike R.
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
I make considerably more torque than you do and the 1-2 shift is still crap. I wish the 1st gear was around a 2.70:1 and 2nd still 1.57:1 I've been trying to have the converter lock at the top of first gear @ 6200rpm at WOT, to have somewhat of a 1st-prime gear, then shift to second for less RPM drop.

The sun gear reaction shell should be used in every 700/60E rebuild, I'm surprised it wasn't updated when the 700 went electronic and turned into the 60E. I hope you modified the oil circuit within the valve body and case as they five pinions begin to starve for oil past 6500rpm.

Anyway, I do love the idea of the LS6 in the SEC. If you're going to be doing that crazy high speed stuff, be weary of any full throttle 3-4 shifts. It puts that transmission at a HUGE mechanical disadvantage and nearly kills it. If you get real silly like me, wait until the 6L90E is able to be swapped. Six forward gears and input torque in stock form is ~650ft/lbs.

Are you going to make some custom headers for it? What top end setup are you running (i.e. heads/cam/intake)? How are you going to integrate the system and still control the other functions?
I don't want to spend the time or money for header so I have a set of LS2 manifolds I'll use for a while, then see about higher performance stuff, if I need it. T

he friend that sold me the LS6 put a cam in it and did some valve train work but I don't have the specifics. He told me that it should rev to around 7200 RPM but I have the red line set at 6500 "just because".

I have a custom computer set for this LS6 and a wiring harness for the engine. It's about seven wires to hook it into the MB but the hard part, which I haven't taken the time to figure out yet, is how much of the MB wiring harness can I remove?

I thought I was close to being finished with the rack & pinion (R&P) setup but talking to a suspension engineer at AM General (HMMWV), I need to get my bump steer modifications done before I can weld the mounts for the rack into the SEC. He told me that I will need to raise or lower the rack to minimize bump steer, where I was intending to raise/lower the tie-rod ends to do it. If the rack gets moved, then that impacts (pun intended) the oil pan, which could affect motor mounts and engine vertical location. Domino effect, don't ya know!!

Here's a photo of the modified steering arm and tie-rod setup.
Attached Thumbnails
OT:  RX-7 twin-turbo Gen. III ?-tie-rod-end1.jpg  
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  #18  
Old 08-20-2007, 05:49 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
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Nothing wrong with the stock manifolds, they flow nearly as well as a midlength header anyway. If you want to go that high, I assume you have better than stock rod bolts? ARP2000 or equivalent?

Wow, had to change up the entire steering system too?
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 243k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 322k
'91 560SEL 183k

Eight others from IH, BMW, GM, Ford, and Volvo.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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