Is it able to use a -93 turbodiesel bottom (block) for a gasoline turbo?. Planned to build a "m103 turbo". Is it able to mount the m103 head on the 300td block? I wonder,cause the dieselblock have the oilsprayers for the pistoncooling and the m103 not.

Nope, The diesel is a completely different block. From what I have heard, 87 and later M103 blocks have holes for installing oil sprayers. Unfortunately my block does not, because it was made in early 86.

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Current Stable:
01 ML55 AMG
92 500E (a few mods)
87 300E (lots of mods)
00 Chevy 3500HD Diesel Box Truck
68 18' Donzi Marine
06 GT i-Drive7 1.0 Mountain Bike (with GPS!)

PREVIOUSLY OWNED:83 300SD, 87 420SEL, 88 420SEL, 90 420SEL, 86 560SEL, 86 190E 2.3-16V AMG, 94 E320

The later blocks do have the machinework to install the oilers, but you have to prep the block by drilling the oil feed holes and threading the mounting bolt hole.
As far as I'm aware the 103, 104, 603, and 606 all have the same bore spacing, as well as rod and main bearing sizes. So the basic idea for a stroker is installing the longer stroke diesel crank into the gasser block. I've got a twin turbo 103 project I'm planning to build too. I'm assuming that to install the diesel crank the counterweights will have to be machined down (to clear the under side of the pistons) and re-balanced. I'm planning for custom pistons and rods for my project. I want to shoot for compression ratio around 8:1. Titanium rods are trick but 3500$ a set is awful pricey. One thing to note is if considering custom pistons you should realize that the piston actually centers the rod on the crankshaft, and not the other way around. Make sure your custom supplier is aware of that easily overlooked but critical fact. Most will not be able to duplicate that due to their forgings not having enough material in the pin boss.

Could you elaborate as to what you mean by this statement?
Thanks!
Adam

__________________
Current Stable:
01 ML55 AMG
92 500E (a few mods)
87 300E (lots of mods)
00 Chevy 3500HD Diesel Box Truck
68 18' Donzi Marine
06 GT i-Drive7 1.0 Mountain Bike (with GPS!)

PREVIOUSLY OWNED:83 300SD, 87 420SEL, 88 420SEL, 90 420SEL, 86 560SEL, 86 190E 2.3-16V AMG, 94 E320

Ok. I think my is an 87, but i´m not shure. But i´ll see. My plans is to build an 103 with about 450 - 500hp. A minimum is 400... Aftermarket pistons, another camshaft (if i can get one with more lift), harder valvesprings, stainless exhaustvalves, ownbuilded plenum, oilcooled pistons, Ownbuilded mainfold, oilcooler, flowprep head, VEMS fully adjustable injection with lambda, Holset hx50 turbo, 50mm audi sport wastegate, biig intercooler......

The thing about the pistons is that they snugly secure the little end of the rod. There is no side to side movement of the rod on the piston pin. The rods are 22mm wide so the piston must have a machined slot that wide (and no wider....+-.001) to accept the rod. Most of the custom piston guys don't have enough material to provide the machined surface needed to secure the rod. I seem to recall the closest they got was 25mm b/ c their forgings didn't have a lot of material in the pin boss area. Most engines have pistons with pins that are almost as wide (long?) as the piston. The 103 has a 52mm pin in an 88.5mm bore. So picture this relatively short pin in the piston and how it would require the pin boss material to be a lot further inward than a "normal" piston. That is what most custom shops can't duplicate.

As far as building a 500hp turbo engine, you may want to rethink the high lift long duration custom grind cam. They don't do well in high boost applications. Stock cams are usually best for most engines over about 1 bar of boost. Long duration and high lift will actually bleed off usable boost out past the exhaust valves. Stock cam will close the valves a lot sooner in comparison and when you're trying to force as much as possible into the cylinder, thats a good thing.

You could always add shims to both sides of the rod. Some motor cycles that I have worked on are set up that way.

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89 Ford F3504x4CC 7.3 IDI turboed Intercooler and running on wvo now powered by a 1997 Cumins
87 300SDL on bio and wvo killed by chevy truck 5-24-06
1999 E300TD black with gray int.

You know I seriously considered that. But in the long run having two more parts (spacers) per piston goes against the simplest solution mindset. Not to mention it will slightly increase the reciprocating mass. After careful analysis I decided to find someone who can source a correctly designed part rather than overcomplicate to allow the use of underdesigned stuff. Thats just not the Mercedes way. (fuel injection exlcuded ) I don't doubt that it would work, just not for me, in my engine that will be pushed beyond the normal limits.










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hx-50 turbo?

Planning on lifiting a head are we?

Yeah, I would think a smaller turbo would be better... like an hx-35. Spool up faster and still produce much more boost than the head, rods, etc. could handle.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

I'd agree that the smaller turbo is the better bet. I know a lot of people will slap the biggest turbo on that they can find that fits. What that does is kill your ability to make boost down low and therefore power down low. Any car is more fun to drive with a lot of power available at relatively low RPMs.
I was one of the black sheep over on the Saabnet forums. I kept my very small T-25 turbo and pushed 1.5 BAR on a two liter coupe with an automatic. That little T-25 could make 22 psi at 2750 RPM and would pull like mad from there. It could pull a car legnth on a WRX off the line because it was so quick to spool, leaving him to play catch-up even though 'supposedly' he had more. I embarrased an A4 2.7 turbo too, several stoplights in a row. By under-turbo-ing a 4 cylinder I was outrunning over-turbo-ed 4 and 6 cylinders. I'm sure either would have eaten me in a road race but between the stoplights (where it counts) I could embarrass them badly because my little turbo could make more boost sooner. To pull this off you really need a good intercooler to make up for the fact that you are past the turbo's efficiency range. Otherwise moderate compression and gobs of fuel is a surefire go-fast recipie.

We use this same priciple in building dune buggies (I-4 and opposing 4's) Tiny turbo spools quick.

It shortens the life of the turbo however dune buggies are not built for the long run...they are built to perform