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  #16  
Old 03-09-2001, 03:49 AM
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Location: LA, CA
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Quote:
Originally posted by blackmercedes
Also,
The "degassing" thing no longer applies. Hold over from the 1940's.
JS.
Tell that to my Saab's brakes. After 3 consecutive laps at the last autoX, my stock brakes were smoking. Granted, I might have overbraked, but I could SWEAR my Saab was a '01.
Benz's Brembo cross-drilled brakes hasn't cracked so far: http://www.tsj-freight.com/jpg/thchen/cars/300CE/brakejob/
they were drilled and each hole radiused, not chamfered, to reduce chance of cracking. Also, they don't drill through the cooling vanes, which further reduces cracking. YMMV.

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  #17  
Old 03-10-2001, 12:53 AM
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The what can I do to increase the breaking ability of my 300E?

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  #18  
Old 03-11-2001, 05:14 PM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,638
Find used calipers & hub assemblies from a 400E or 500E and rebuild them, ATE PowerDisc rotors, add teflon/stainless-steel braided brakelines WITH a clear vinyl sheath, GREEN-STUFF pads, and use high-temp DOT 4 DOT 5.1 non-silicone brakefluid.

Go to 215 or 205 series tires with a wear rating of no greater than 400 (the lower the number, the sticker, but the faster it wears out). IF you can fit 225 without rubbing, even better.

I personally use 205/55ZR16 BF Goodrich KDWS all-season radials with the above brakes, pads, lines and fluids.

I've also installed 400E rear calipers & rotors.

This keeps it fairly Mercedes stock, easy to maintain and find parts.

Good luck,
:-) neil
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2001, 01:52 PM
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 109
Wear rating of no greater than 400??? UTQ of ~300 is already hard as a ROCK. No thanks. The cheapest, and probably more effective way to increase your stopping power is this: go with an aggressive front brake pads such as Porterfield R4S or Hawk HP+ (NOT HPS). Then get some darn sticky tires like: RE71s, AVS Intermeds/Sports, SP8000s, etc (all with UTQ of ~ 160-200ish. Of course, UTQ ratings are meaningless when compared across brands). Dollar per dollar, this will shorten your stopping distance with minimal work.

IMHO, Greenstuff pads are low-dust OEM-replacements that aren't worth $70. Stainless Steel lines are great if you still have the original brake lines... YMMV.
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  #20  
Old 03-12-2001, 07:27 PM
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Tony

Why do you say the green stuff pads are "low-dust OEM-replacements that aren't worth $70"? Did you have a bad experience with them, or some other basis for the comment? I'm curious because I have them on my wagon, they seem to work pretty good, and they were a lot less than the Porterfields.

Cheers,

Bill



[Edited by Sludge on 03-12-2001 at 08:09 PM]
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92 300E (Black/Grey interior: wife's car)
94 E320 Wagon (White/Saddle interior, Eibach springs, '96 E420 16 x 7.5 wheels)
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  #21  
Old 03-13-2001, 02:11 AM
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Not bad experience per se, but I'm using 'em on my 300CE to no 'great' result. The car isn't stopping any better than the stock pads. They were pricey at $70/pair for the fronts relative to Metal Masters and other OEM stuff. Of course Porterfields cost 200% more, they offer 200% more performance... YMMV.
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  #22  
Old 03-13-2001, 07:57 PM
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Tony:

Wow-200%! A full stop from 80 mph in 57 feet?

Just kidding--but I take it that you think they're worth the premium. Did you change rotors too?

Cheers

Bill
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92 300E (Black/Grey interior: wife's car)
94 E320 Wagon (White/Saddle interior, Eibach springs, '96 E420 16 x 7.5 wheels)
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  #23  
Old 03-13-2001, 10:46 PM
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Location: Near Williamsburg, Virginia
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I'm not an engineer and I know very little about suspensions systems and brakes so I purchased a car that had been modified by a company that makes this their business. My 2.3-16 has a suspension system engineered by Delsing Motorsport. Their engineer told me how this added 2% and that added 1% and so forth. In the process they installed slotted and vented rotors with kevlar green pads on the front and retained the OEM rotors, calipers and pads on the rear. Coupled with ABS & PZeros on Hockingham R wheels the car stops incredibly fast.
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  #24  
Old 03-15-2001, 01:13 PM
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Location: LA, CA
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sludge
Tony:
Wow-200%! A full stop from 80 mph in 57 feet?

Just kidding--but I take it that you think they're worth the premium. Did you change rotors too?

Cheers
Bill
Heh, funny guy! =)
aren't using Porterfields on the Benz, can't afford it. Just had 'em on RX-7s. My car has EBC Greenstuff fronts w/ Racetechnologies.com cross drilled Brembo rotors & metal master rears. Running AVS-intermeds (about as soft as Robby's P-0's, just at half the price. heh). I'm afraid I don't share his view of "the car stops incredibly fast". The pedal feels softer than before & the car doesn't stop any faster. What a WASTE of money @#%$#$%^%$&(*
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  #25  
Old 03-16-2001, 09:49 AM
Bax Bax is offline
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I have experience of EBC green stuff front pads on a W124 Cabriolet and of Ferodo DS200 front pads on a W124 E280 Estate (T Model). I found the Green stuff pads, whilst not producing much brake dust, were no better than factory pads. The Ferodos on the other hand were a dramatic improvement giving real bite and no noticable fade. Can the member with the lowered E320T give some info on the lowering kit he has used, is it compatible with the self levelling suspension ? Does it make the ride noticably harder ?
Thanks
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  #26  
Old 03-16-2001, 07:12 PM
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Bax:

I used Eibach lowering springs and had a pro (buy and) install them for me. There was no problem with the self-levelling suspension, and it rides as fine as it did before installing the springs. I do have to bit a bit more careful over tall speed bumps but otherwise I haven't bottomed out any earlier with the Eibachs than I did with stock springs. I'm pretty happy with them.

Bill
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  #27  
Old 03-17-2001, 05:30 PM
Clauser1
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Crossed drilled rotors

I called them "Cheese Grater".
Clauser.
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  #28  
Old 03-25-2001, 11:40 PM
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AKA Kühl Carbon@Benzsport
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Farminton Hills, MI
Posts: 93
Cross drilled rotors and Porterfields, 40,000 strong!

I have used cross drilled rotors from KVR Performance and Porterfield pads on my SLK since I bought it. Got the for the look and the lack of dust, but love them both for the performance. What a setup! I would recommend it to anybody.






I am about to roll 40,000 miles on the car and it was the first mod of many I made. Haven't experienced any prob's with cross drilled rotors. While Porterfields may be expensive, I defy you to show me another low dust pad that lasts 40,000 miles.

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  #29  
Old 03-26-2001, 04:14 PM
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Where is the best place to find slotted and cross-drilled rotors for a good price? (off course good quality too.)

What are the best pads to use that offer great brake feel and no fade, and very little dust?

I like the EBC's Green stuff, but want something with a little more brake feel like my original MB pads did. Also, want rotors that won't crack on me, and still last with better performance.

Any suggestions:
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  #30  
Old 03-26-2001, 08:45 PM
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Recommended sources

Charlie,
My recommendations are as stated above. They can be found at: http://www.kvrperformance.com and http://www.porterfield-brakes.com . I would recommend both highly. Paul.

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AMG sideskirts
SL style grill
Color-Matched roadster bars
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Real carbon fiber interior

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http://216.26.163.38/uploads/pics/newPJsigbanner.jpg
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