Self levelling Rear on E320 '95 Wagon / Lowering problems? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

joeywarren · #1 04-03-2001, 07:11 AM

Hi all...

I am looking (still) to lower my E320 and also cure two traditional problems:

1. Excessive body roll.
2. Eliminating the fender/tyre "gap".

My question is this:

With the self-levelling suspension present on the 1995 E320 Wagon, do I need to take anything else into account when ordering the sportline kit for this car?

Has anyone sucessfully managed this on a 94/95 W124 wagon?

thanks!

jcyuhn · #2 04-03-2001, 10:48 AM

I've got the same gripe with my '87 124 wagon. With fresh
nitrogen cells and a new controller valve the rear end
looks jacked-up; like cheap drag race car.

I don't believe there is any special consideration needed
when changing to the sportline suspension. Be aware that
the rear suspension is partially supported by the springs
and partially by the struts. Even when unladen, there is
a minimum pressure (about 33 bars, as I recall) maintained
in the leveling system. The level controller will not
permit the pressure to fall below this point. The minimum
pressure is required for the struts/accumulators to supply
damping.

As a result, the rear of the car probably won't drop by
exactly the difference in height between the old and new
springs. I would expect the leveling system to take up
some of the difference.

You'll certainly need to adjust the connection to the level
control valve after installing the new springs. The
connection must be shortened to account for the body being
closer to the suspension, otherwise the car will raise
itself back up to the current ride height. This adjustment
is trivially simple - just turn the threaded rod which
connects the level controller arm to the torsion (sway)
bar.

- Jim

ke6dcj · #3 04-05-2001, 12:56 AM

If you only install Sportline front springs (there are no SportLine rear springs that I know of), bushings, swaybars, and dampers/shocks, your rear will look higher.

I don't think it would be wise to install SportLine rear springs meant for the sedan on an estate/wagon, but I could be wrong.

I went with H&R lowering springs front & rear. These springs are low, IMHO, esp. with a tow-hitch installed. Jim is correct, you have to re-adjust the rear linkage with any spring change. Also if severly lowered, you need to go to Bilstein Sport dampers in the front, otherwise the front extends too much for the shortened spring.

If the Eibach estate/wagon springs are a little longer, I would go with that instead, esp. if this is a street & cross-country tourer.

Those that have driven my wagon setup cannot believe it.
Now, if I can only find a used SportLine steering box for quicker response. . .

Good luck,
:-) neil
1988 300TE w/AMG'd M104, aka C36 . . .

joeywarren · #4 04-05-2001, 07:02 PM

Thanks guys - both great replies which I have taken good time to read and digest.

I have had a list of parts from this place which includes all the bits needed. These are as follows:

Part# -- Description -- Quantity
------------------------------------------
124 321 30 04 -- Front Spring -- 2
124 320 64 30 -- Front Strut -- 2
124 323 68 65 -- Front Sway Bar -- 1
124 323 45 85 -- Inner Bushing -- 2
124 323 51 85 -- Outer Bushing -- 2
124 330 06 75 -- Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit -- 2
124 324 28 04 -- Rear Spring -- 2
124 320 23 31 -- Rear Shock Absorber -- 2
124 326 19 65 -- Rear Sway Bar -- 1
124 326 01 81 -- Bushing -- 2
129 351 14 42 -- Rear Sub-Frame Mounts -- 2

You may also want to replace your spring pads at the same time. The thinnest pads will help to lower your car.
Part# 201 321 09 84

This list from Bill Wood at http://www.PeachParts.com

- Soo - does this list add up to my wishlist as below?

1. Stiffer body-control around corners, and less body diving when braking.
2. General lowering of car - nothing too low - as I *am* using it for towing and load-lugging stuff around.

"If the Eibach estate/wagon springs are a little longer, I would go with that instead, esp. if this is a street & cross-country tourer. "

NEIL - Can you confirm your exact set-up.. (w/ p/codes?) Do you have the self-levelling rear suspension too?

JIM - My tech agrees completely with your comments - and additonally advises against *any* sort of lowering a W124 wagon with self-levelling... as he seems to have taken orders from "people who look like they want to look like drug-dealers!" to lower their cars to the lowest possible limits. This is *NOT* what I want to have - never mind the fact that I would probably end up pushing the geometry beyond the adjustment limits of the rear suspension, and shredding a few tyres in 5,000 miles or so!!

So - do we feel there is a "general" way to go here? Is there a way I can start easily, then build it down if it's not low enough? Treat the body-roll aspect as the most important!

Thanks again!

Anyone else got lowered self-levelling suspension?! How have you found it?

thanks

ke6dcj · #5 04-05-2001, 09:57 PM

I have self-levellin suspension, just look at the rear shocks with hydraullic (sp?) lines on them.

I have H&R springs front & rear, and Bilsteins Sport shocks in front. Sportline front swaybars, and bushings in the front.

The ride is definitely more like a BMW than a Mercedes, but not overly stiff, even my mechanic says so.

I am using the tallest/thickest spring front & rear to isolate spring noise and because the H&R springs are fairly low.

I first did a SportLine swaybar in front & SportLine swaybar bushings, and that really kept the sway in check.

If you don't mind lowering in stages, I'd do Sportline springs in front, but be careful with the SportLine springs in the rear since its for the sedan.

Good luck,
:-) neil

jcyuhn · #6 04-06-2001, 12:10 PM

There are pictures of Neil's car located on Hacks MB pages.
Take a look at http://www.dhc.net It appears to be down
right now, but I seem to recall Neil has photos of his
(very sharp) wagon posted there.

I understand your point, and your mechanic's. I think
perhaps a 1" drop in front and 1.5" in the rear would be
great. I'm not seriously considering this for my wagon,
but I almost think just switching to the thinnest spring
pads would put the car where I'd like it's looks to be.
A *long* way from the drug dealer look, but a bit further
from the current 'SUV-like' look too.

As for changing the ride height, MB had this option on
the 201 chassis, which is substantially the same suspension.
It could be raised or lowered about 1" from the normal
position. They did it by using the same hydraulic struts/
nitrogen cells/springs combination that our wagons use
in the back. A dashboard switch was used to lengthen/shorten
the rod(s) connecting the leveling valves to the sway
bars, causing the ride height (and presumably damping) to
change. As a result of the factory using the leveling
system to alter ride height, I don't see any problem with
us doing it either, at within modest bounds.

- Jim

ke6dcj · #7 04-06-2001, 04:31 PM

Jim- I would be interested in adding the manual rear adjustment via a switch on the dash, only because with my 2-inch receiver hitch, I sometimes scrape the bottom of the hitch on steep driveways.

Do you know what years of the W201 chassis had this, and if it was a USA option, or only European?

Thanks,

:-) neil

joeywarren · #8 04-06-2001, 07:43 PM

Neil - thanks for your structured reply. This really helps me see the trees from the wood (and the sway bars from the bushings ;-)

I won't bother with the sportline springs in the back (it seems the possible ache of having to revert after the operation due to shredded tires seems to grab me back somewhat) - esp. as it seems there are no sportline springs specifically spec'd for the wagon. - You mentioned you had H&R springs on the back as well, but also to be careful... Does that mean you have H&R sedan springs on the back? What did your mech say, or are *you* your mech.?! If so - are you having any problems with the set-up at all?

Sorry to keep on, but I just like to get things right..

Anyway - do you have spec's of the H&R springs? I see they do a few!

What's the distance between your fenders & whell tops now you have done this work... it'd be good to get a comparison!

Thanks for your time - it's a lifesaver..

Next!

Jim - Have you the exact URL to MB Hack's pages to see this thing in the real?

It's be great to have a dash-switch to set your ride height - or even one which lowered your car automatically after (say) 50Mph? Wow....

Cheers all - keep it rolling in - one day I'll send you an e-pint of beer!

>Joe

Sludge · #9 04-06-2001, 08:26 PM

Joey:

I put Eibach springs on my 94 wagon, and my mechanic said he didn't have to fiddle with the self-levelling system. I think it looks pretty good but I haven't taken a decent picture from the side yet, hope to this weekend. If the market turns up again or I otherwise find myself with too much money, I think I'll try to put in the Sportline front bar and bushings. I'm a bit nervous about putting in Sportline front shocks as I don't think they'll match up to my rear shocks as well as the stock shocks (stiff front, soft rear, doesn't seem right). I may be wrong about that....

I'm down about an inch I would guess, I haven't bottomed out on much of anything yet, but I do have to be careful going over a speed bump at work that didn't use to be a problem.

The wagon is a terrific car, enjoy!!

Bill

ke6dcj · #10 04-06-2001, 09:56 PM

The H&R springs (front & rear) I'm using are specific for the wagon.
There is approximately 0.5-inch between the tires & the fender.

I'm running BF GoodRich KDWS 205/55WR16 tires on 16x8 8-hole 500E wheels.

No problem with setup front or rear. When I had the car aligned at the dealer, I had it setup for SportLine specifications, and had the self-levelling re-adjusted to neutral position since the springs were much shorter.

Good luck,
:-) neil

Cardude · #11 04-09-2001, 07:19 AM

Looks like I'm going to need more experimentation. In one instance I actually raised the rear end of the car after starting the engine. So I moved the adjustment in the other direction. At least I'm back where I started from, possibly a little lower. Strange thing is I'm quite a distance from achieving the neutral position (lining the holes up) As of now I still have the look of an early 70's Hot Rodder. Not exactly what I was looking for, but I will keep experimenting.

Cardude
1989 300TE
HR Springs two bump pads on all corners
17inch Wheels with 215/45/17s
Pioneer Head Unit with 6 Cd Changer
Custom Sub

joeywarren · #12 04-09-2001, 11:41 AM

Neil - thanks for the straight answer -

"When I had the car aligned at the dealer, I had it setup for SportLine specifications" Do you happen to have this to hand? I understand the wheel & suspension geomerty settings will be smoewhat different for the sportline set-up than that for stock?

Cardude - this is just the situation I don't want to get to! Let us know of your tweaks and their outcome..

with best regards

Cardude · #13 04-13-2001, 11:02 PM

I think I have my car where I want it now (lowered). I had to actually increase the length of the adjustment rod to get my car down to my desired level. I will post pictures of my car when I find my digital camera again.

Thanks everyone!

You guys rule

Cardude

1989 300TE

joeywarren · #14 04-17-2001, 11:14 AM

Het that's great... let us all know how you get on with your new height.. especially the self-levelling rear!

Looking forward to the pics...

>Joe

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