Neil, the KMAC's can be adjusted just as the others. Simply put an aligning mark on the Adjusting bolt and a mark on the lower control arm.( in fact you could even have an alignment tech put several alignment marks on the LCA to indicate -2,-1-0,1,2 degrees camber. Then you could easily adjust the camber yourself for track purposes by jack up the rear loosening the nut, turn the bolt and align it to the specific degree mark and retighten the bolt.... No tire/wheel removal necessary.

Guido the KMAC's basically are a modified LCA bushing. Instead of a single 1 piece bushing that is pressed into the LCA, its 3 pieces. After removing the OE LCA bushing, the new ones(urethane) go into each end(front/rear)...they are both 1/2 the length of the OE LSA bushing. The center sleeve is inserted through the center of the 2 bushing halves(Actually its probably easier to install the sleeve into one of the halves, insert both through the LSA tube and then install the other half bushing on the other side). The sleeve mimicks the sleeve that the OE bushing has with one very important exception. The hole is offcentered. Imagine a circle with a "D" drawn inside. But don't draw the "D" exactly in the center. Draw it a little off center. The bolt has a shaved face to fit into the "D" hole. Turning the bolt causes the sleeve to rotate in an oblong fashion. This is what gives you +- adjustability of the camber. So when the face of the "D"(the curved side) is towards the wheel, it pushes the lower edge of the wheel out(- camber). When the face of the "D" is towards the rear axle, it pulls the lower edge of the wheel in(+camber). Elementary my dear Watson. So for you track techs I know that the Porsche/BMW guys have this rig (or methodology)that they use to make track adjustments on their cars. Seemingly it could used on the 500 just as well. As described earlier, if you get a tech to mark the bolt and the LCA in degree increments, you could easily adjust the KMAC's. The Delsings and others would require a bit of eye ball measuring

__________________
Regards,

Albert
aldedmon@yahoo.com

Jim I went on the KMAC site. I see no pic of what the rear camber setup looks like. Anyone have any pics on this.

__________________
500E Sold
2006 Mini Cooper S
Modified,pulley,injectors,suspension
2009 E350 Sport AMG package

I have the K-Mac bushings on my lower control arms and use the adjustable links everywhere else on the rear of my track ONLY 190. True, the solid links have been known to bend you're rear subframe....ask MBDoc!!, so not a good idea for street use. The good part of the K-Mac bushing is that it draws the bottom in for less camber and not by pushing the top out which in most of our cases would cause tire/fender interference. Before I bought the K-Mac bushings I considered shortening the lower arms by cutting and welding since all the rest of the arms are adjustable.
A heim joint can't be used on the LCA inner joint as it needs to be held in a level plane constantly. I made all my links by using swaged aluminum tubing and 1/2" X 5/8" heim joints with both left and right hand threads for adjustment. Drilled out the holes in the subframe for the 1/2" gr.8 bolts. I've also replaced the soft rubber subframe mounts with steel locating bushings as it was moving about 3/8" on the passenger side under acceleration!

Really think the factory had the right idea on the links as it cushions the every day road impacts, has a somewhat long life and fits within their budget. They didn't expect our MBs to be on a track as often as a Bimmer. Surprise, surprise~~!!

Tobias MB
190/5.6

Right on Toby...Guido...no pic probably b/c it looks stock from underneath...its just an offset bushing; in simple terms. (I am wrong guys who have them?)

Yeah, the factory did a nice job with the link design...pretty easy to replace if needed and cheap.

__________________
Jim

1992 500E
2007 CLK63
2003 Audi RS6
2001 Audi allroad

Here's a picture of the KMAC on the rear with aftermarket bushings taken from RC-Imports.com

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Thanks Neil .Is that what your running on your car.
Does that bushing push in with a press?



See Ya Guido

__________________
500E Sold
2006 Mini Cooper S
Modified,pulley,injectors,suspension
2009 E350 Sport AMG package

I'm using the Delsing camber-arms. Doesn't seem to put too much stress on the subframe, like the other links.

If you check the archives, the KMAC comes with an installation tools, but it's just about useless and needs to pressed/coaxed in.

Do a search.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Albert,

Do you have the part number on you Koni Sport for the rear? I may be able to figure out where is it original disign for. If it work on your car, it should work for evry body.

Harry

Lots of expertise in this forum. Maybe you guys can offer some insight. 93' 300E. Sportline Swaybars fr/rr. 1 bumps pads fr/rr. Want to replace struts/shocks all around. Do not want to raise the car at all, and that is the fear if I do HD's. Also do not want to lower car with springs. My height is about where I want it. I also run 225/50-16's
More info on the early 500E struts. Cost? Good application on this car maybe? Good ride, with better feel when pushed on stock springs? I want to firm her a bit more, like the HD's will do, but not "raise" the car as i have seen in the forum. What other alternatives are out there, you guys can recommend on stock springs? I have almost settled on just doing new "comforts" and seeing what happens. I have 146k on the clock, and struts/ shocks are original.

Thanks guys.

FQ

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FAQ

W124
Sportline Swaybars
Bilstein HD Struts
16" E420 wheels

Since you're using the STOCK springs, you need a strut that is designed for it. The only ones are OEMs, Koni's, or Bilstein HD or Comforts.

If you want the ride to be firmer, go with Bilstein HD's. If you want the ride to be just as it is, but a little firmer, go with the Comforts.

500E front struts would offer a non-linear ride because of the internal spring-buffers, that is, smoother than HD's everyday, but when pushed, firms up. HD's would be FIRM all the time.

Height shouldn't be a problem for all of the struts mentioned.

:-) neil

Thanks Neil

For getting back to me in "7" minutes!! Love this place.

Anyways, sounds like Comforts for the price should suffice. But I am curious to the "feel" of early 500E fronts. Cost is more I am sure, but still curious. What do oyu mean by "linear" exactly, in refernce to ride quality. Maybe it is just a pipedream, and I should just do the comforts and move on. Anything should feel better after 146k, right?

fq

__________________
FAQ

W124
Sportline Swaybars
Bilstein HD Struts
16" E420 wheels

Yes, the 500E front struts are more expensive by about 30%.

By non-linear, I mean that the 500E struts aren't always stiff like a Bilstein HD. That is, when the strut reaches a certain limit (compression and extension) it hits an internal buffer that limits travel.

When you said you wanted a good ride, but better feel when pushed, the 500E front stuts come to mind because that's what they were designed to do.

:-) neil

Does L-3000-90093 Boge sound about right for early 500E strut?

FQ

__________________
FAQ

W124
Sportline Swaybars
Bilstein HD Struts
16" E420 wheels

I have no idea about the BOGE part numbers.

Here's the MB pn#: 124.320.57.30

:-) neil

The 500E struts with internal extension limiting springs are very sensitive to ride height. Basically, they won't work as intended unless the car's ride height is the same as a stock 500E. Your stock 300E sits too high by about an inch or so, and will already be into the internal extension limiting spring. Personally, I'd get KONI's based on what you describe, they have lifetime warranty, and are adjustable.

BTW - The L3000- number you quoted is not an MB part number, that's a WorldPac part number. If you want the OE stuff (500E or stock), buy it from Rusty or Caliber... not sure if FastLane deals with OE stuff or not (call them first though).