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#1
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Please Info on 190E 2.3-16
I'm considering buying, from its 3rd owner, a 1986 190E 2.3-16 with 139k miles. He has the paper work of the last 6 years he's driven it. Before, it belonged to a buddy of his.
I wonder if the price list for parts on this car somehow resembles that of the regular 190E, or this is a totally different animal and has an outrageous price list for everything? Is the 16 valve as reliable as the other MBs? Or due to its high performance, is it prone to more failures? I'm not into twiking or racing this kind of cars, I;ll try to keep it OE, and use it as a daily driver. I'm test driving it tomorrow evening, please let me know the major things I should look for and the typical parts broken or missing on this model. Thank you. Ken |
#2
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kefer,
most of the parts are the same as a regular 190 however some of the major differences are as follows: exterior the aerodynamics are 16valve specific and can cost a pretty penny if they need to be replaced interior power leather sport seats by recaro (if i remember correctly) i believe they cost on the order of $4000 each if you need to replace one. mechanical self-leveling (hydropneumatic) rear shocks the hydrogen cells can and may have developed leaks. these can be replaces with OEM shocks or regular, non leveling shocks. brakes the braking system is esentially a transplanted 300e system with vented front rotors engine the block is, i believe common to the 8 valve, but the head, of course, is the cosworth twin cam. instead of an exhaust manifold, there is a stainless steel tubular header. again, 16 valve specific. transmission the manual tranny is a getrag close ratio 5-speed (no overdrive) with a dogleg 1st. typical things to look for: ****timing chain - should be replaced every 90,000 mi or so ****timing chain tensioner - replace with upgraded ratcheting type tensioner these first 2 are critical as a faulty tensioner and loose chain will go a long way to destroying the engine suspension bushings - condition indicative of type of usage the engine is just as reliable as other MB engines although the fuel injection system can be and often is finicky. there's no way around this as that is how most of these cars are. call it the "nature of the beast" so long as regular maintenance (read religious oil changes), have been performed the engine should be in good working order. the biggest thing to check in the timing chain and tensioner. the oem tensioner did not retain tension without oilpressure, so when the engine is shut off, the tensioner relaxes until oil pressure is re-established. in the case of a worn or loose timing chain, this could prove to be disasterous. the best fix is to have the tensioner replaced with the upgraded version which uses a ratchet to maintain tension even when the engine is off.
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'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY! '93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights '87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes '70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights |
#3
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All very good comments and answers to your question. I had direct - and expensive - expensive experience with the "superceded" timing chain tensioner failing.
I am not at all sure that I would buy the 16V if I had it to do over. The car is a big of a pig around town, given its weight and high-revving 16V configuration. My old '84 BMW 325e is a more fun car to drive. A year and a half into my E420+, I have to say I like the 124 better, aside from the automatic. With a pretty easy set of mods to the suspension, the big V-8 car will leave the 201 in the dirt. Just one guy's opinion.
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Charles Cleaver 1975 350SE + 1992 300CE-24 SportLine 5-speed + 2002 SLK320 6-speed + 1974 W114 280 1986 190E 2.3-16 (Decomm rear self-leveling suspension; Euro-code headlamps) sold 2004 Audi S4 6-spd - sold 1969 (2) and 1980 Porsche 911T, S, and SC - alas gone 1987 300SDL - Graf Spee; Euro-code headlamps; 16-inch 8-hole wheels - sold 1994 E420+(E500 suspension/E-code headlamps/PAD chip) sold 1968 250SE 4-speed (NICE car) - long gone 1962 220S 4-speed/column mount - long gone |
#4
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atatexan,
Quote:
Quote:
i've gone from drivign a 500e to the 16v back to a 500e and yes, a big v-8 will leave the 201 in the dirt, but the 201 is more nimble than a 124. they're different types of car. the 16v was designed to nibble at, not gobble up the road. the 2.3-16 may not be the ultimate car, but it's still fun to drive and has a personality that's all its own.
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'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY! '93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights '87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes '70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights |
#5
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Quote:
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#6
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neil,
what really surprised me about the 16v when i first drove it is how comfortable it felt. right away i felt at home in the car. somehow the car is very easy to drive how it was meant to be driven. not only is it forgiving, but it is also the type of car that has the driver, in short order, supremely confident of where the car is placed on the road. the 500e, though a formidable car in its own right, is not as familiar a car to me. i never feel the same level of confidence in pushing the 500 that i do with the 16v.
__________________
'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY! '93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights '87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes '70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights |
#7
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16V vs. 500 vs. BMW
I am glad to have generated some controversy and discussion! I stand by my comments on the 16V around town vs. the 3 series. My 1984 BMW was incredibly reliable and fun; the 16V is sluggish in comparison to the torquey 325e. The 16V is fantasic on rural, curvy high speed roads but so is my heavily altered E420. They are a nice complement. People ask why I have two, "black" four door M-B's. Hard to explain how different they are to outsiders.
Viva la difference!
__________________
Charles Cleaver 1975 350SE + 1992 300CE-24 SportLine 5-speed + 2002 SLK320 6-speed + 1974 W114 280 1986 190E 2.3-16 (Decomm rear self-leveling suspension; Euro-code headlamps) sold 2004 Audi S4 6-spd - sold 1969 (2) and 1980 Porsche 911T, S, and SC - alas gone 1987 300SDL - Graf Spee; Euro-code headlamps; 16-inch 8-hole wheels - sold 1994 E420+(E500 suspension/E-code headlamps/PAD chip) sold 1968 250SE 4-speed (NICE car) - long gone 1962 220S 4-speed/column mount - long gone |
#8
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Texan: You are comparing an apple to an orange with the 201 class and your e420. Your 420 is a much bigger and heavier car than a 190 is. I would agree with ur comments about the 16 valve being a bit sluggish off the line but I think there are few cars out there that sound like that cosworth 2.3 screaming. MY dad has a CLK 430 and it will out run the 16 valve no questions asked. I love my 16 valve and 5 speed. 125,000 on the ticker!. Joe
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