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  #151  
Old 08-17-2010, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JayRash View Post
Nick, gr8 read there. there is a hint there to y the M103 makes good hp under boost, since the cam of the M103 doesn't have much overlap.
touche' I know nRoman prefers the M103 for boosting & now this helps me understand why. Thanks too nick.ged!

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  #152  
Old 08-17-2010, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JayRash View Post
Nick, gr8 read there. there is a hint there to y the M103 makes good hp under boost, since the cam of the M103 doesn't have much overlap.
Question...

The cam/valve timing in the M103 is constant..

What effect does the variable on a M104 have on a turbo install ?
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  #153  
Old 08-18-2010, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBYCC View Post
Question...

The cam/valve timing in the M103 is constant..

What effect does the variable on a M104 have on a turbo install ?
All the old merc I6 engines had little cam over lap even the M104 with the variable intake.
In the M104 and since the cams are only advance from 2000RPM to 4700RPM i would have to say that they will not be a disadvantage since any decent turbo should not be restrictive in this range.
Now if one chooses to disengage the cam advance they will find they will be able to run more timing advance, this is due to having a lower dynamic compression in the engine. That doesn’t necessarily translate to more HP.

and due to the simplicity of the cam advance activation / deactivation on those engines, one can chose at what RPMS they want to deactivate the cam advance thru the MS or any RPM window Switch.
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  #154  
Old 08-22-2010, 09:55 AM
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Overlap also makes power in turbo use.

But exthaust pressure should stay below inlet pressure. Right turbo sizing.
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  #155  
Old 08-23-2010, 05:13 PM
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yes for ultimate power, a cam with overlap will work with a turbo, BUT it will cause the engine to have a raised power band wich will feel like lag,or an old two stroke motorbike, and crappy fuel economy... at low speed, the intake chrge will be blown straight out of the exaust. this is why i dumped the amg cam.
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if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
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Last edited by nick.ged; 08-24-2010 at 05:58 AM.
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  #156  
Old 08-23-2010, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kynsi View Post
But exthaust pressure should stay below inlet pressure. Right turbo sizing
....in your situation yes! Drag racing obviously demands high end power so bigger the turbine housing the better. Go for it. For wanting a nippy street car though whereby you have good low down power & great mid power with not so important a top end band, no!

I've chosen to go small exhaust housing so I spool up quicker for on the street. Top end isn't important in this application. I'm still going big with compressor wheel to ensure I get heaps of air flow too

I agree for a 1/4 mile run you have to get the most out of everything but it's no use if you get hammered from one set of lights to the next by a Honda Civic because you only have 200meters between each set of lights

This is why I luv different builds/requirements. Makes for an interesting world otherwise we'd all die of boredom haha.....
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  #157  
Old 08-26-2010, 04:44 AM
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hey mate, have you done a 1/4 with the current setup yet?? if you have UPDATE YOUR BLOOD SIG, really want to see how it goes
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  #158  
Old 08-26-2010, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Dearlove View Post
hey mate, have you done a 1/4 with the current setup yet?? if you have UPDATE YOUR BLOOD SIG, really want to see how it goes
Unfortunately, due to circumstances this year there have been no open to all 1/4 mile events in our country so I haven't been able to get a legal 1/4 mile time with the current setup. All I have is a g-tech 1/4mile time but only on 0.6 bar (190E 3.0-12v Turbo), haven't done a 1/4mile test on 1 bar yet. Haven't updated the sig since the g-tech time is not considered a legal 1/4 mile time .
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #159  
Old 08-26-2010, 05:51 AM
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ah ok, np, just let us know when you do
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  #160  
Old 09-07-2010, 06:49 PM
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6.0 secs to sixty. mph.. not all that good, std m3 or rs4 would hammer that into the weeds?
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"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often
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  #161  
Old 09-08-2010, 02:20 AM
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Yes 0-60 mph is not that great since I'm traction limited. I get wheel spin through 1-st and 2-nd gear and hookup in 3-rd, also because my rev limit was at 6300rpm (now 7000) I had 3-shifts to 60 mph (each shift is around 0.5 according to the g-tech). The RS4 will always be faster 0-60 because of the AWD which gives them a great launch off the line .
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #162  
Old 09-19-2010, 01:22 AM
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Did some testing yesterday and was finally able to get the 0-60 time under 6.0 sec (5.788sec , still lots of wheel spin). The improvement is due to the raised rev limiter which allows me to hit 0-100 km/h in second gear. Boost currently peaks @ 1 bar and then comes down to 0.8 . I will have to adjust the wastgate spring (tighten it a bit) since the boost control solenoid is hitting 98% duty cycle .



Here is a megasquirt snapshot



PS. Forgot to mention that I broke the front driveshaft flex disk again , and thats only after ~ 15-18 1/4 mile and 0-200 km/h test done yesterday. Anyone have ideas on how we could strengthen the driveshaft flex joints (front, rear flex disk and driveshaft mount), or perhaps we could interchange them with stronger from another MB model ?
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

Last edited by Joreto; 09-19-2010 at 02:32 AM.
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  #163  
Old 09-19-2010, 08:41 AM
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spicer driveshaft u joints from old american (dodge?) truck can be used, magnumpi has done it on hear, i cant get them in uk though, very fustrating. dont want to order from usa without seeing them first...


what acceleration enrichment settings are you using? could you put a snapshot up so i can compare them with mine please?
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ce 320 amg
widebody
tiwn turbo
Mutty 'der nail'
soon to be a six speed nail


"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often
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  #164  
Old 09-19-2010, 10:43 AM
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If you have an automatic then you can run the 400-500e driveshaft with the 4 flange flex disc frt and rear. I was going to do this if I ever had any problems.
Do you get a lot of wheel hop when you are spinning your tires? This is normally a good way of breaking things. Put solid engine mounts and differential mounts and subframe mount in and this will greatly reduce wheel hop. The engine mounts make the car pretty rough at idle but you could use torque shocks instead.
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  #165  
Old 09-19-2010, 10:44 AM
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Nick, do you have a part number for these u joints ? Perhaps one of the US members can check and compare it to the stock u joint ?

Here is a pic a my AE but they are far from perfect, car drives perfectly with them but looking at the log I see that they can be improved. Also keep in mind that they are specific to the given engine setup (throttle body size, injector size etc.)


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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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