how much is a second hand engine?

I will pull it apart in the next few weeks and see if the rings were at fault.

Second hand M111 is 2k+...Kev has a couple of brand new 6-speeds for a realistic price and im contemplating a V8/V6 swap no F/I. the MB 430 or 550 with manual would sound so nice,havent really ever been much of a V8 guy but i heard a C43 the other day with a modified exhaust and daym.

only real down side i can see is the lack of IC i will need,maybe i could use it to cool my cabin air^^.

edit: at the end of the day im not sure if i have enough patiants left to go on with this...i mean its been 5 years,it may be best to finally just call it "a day" and begin fresh with a new project.
maybe save and buy a C43,swap a few bits over,do a manual conversion on it or somthing like that.

Edit#2 dare i say maybe an E46 M3 or Audi B5 RS4 might be on the cards...a step in the performance direction from stock.

As it turns out #1 and #4 conrods are bent.

Not sure how that happened...either preignition or hydrolicing(with oil),there is no damage to the head or valves.

I never checked if the rods were bent when i rebuilt it this time.

Wear on the old JE pistons indicates it may have happened back then,more so #4 leaked the most with the JE pistons...on the present build #4 is the most bent rod.

The reason for these issues could all come back to incorrect cam timing on the first build....which is what i replicated when i rebuilt it the second time.
I do clearly rememeber asking why the engine reconditioners didnt mark the timing and had to get someone else in to check it...*sigh*


Have obtained second hand rods from a M104,same stuff as the M111K.
Having them balanced atm,along with a refinish on my flywheel and pp,that too didnt bed in too well.

More so on the cam timing...i seem to be getting alot of oil/fuel residue in the intake plenum...air is definitly going the wrong direction...however this in small quantities is apparently how the are set up so they "recirculate" for emissions.Incorrect cam timing could make this worse...i would have though bolting a restriction(turbo) onto the exhaust of and engine designed for a SC would also have something to the same effect.

Incorrect cam timing could apparently also cause high vaccum conditions??...this could be a reason we have had trouble with oil making its way into the chambers.



Question: im thinking about having a torque plate made to hone the block....worth it or not worth it on the M111?.


Cheers,
Paul

bent con rod?
you should have been able to run higher boost from the lowered compression! u gota look at the upside to anything :-p

so thats been bent for the last 2 rebuilds? man that sucks!
slap it together , get that cam timing dialed in and get her tuned again paul! this time more aggressive tuning,

what was the story with the clutch? was it chattering,

what is this torque plate? havent heard that term before

Haha dammit forgot about the upside...i should have just wound boost to compensate =P

Im confident the rods were bent from the odd combustion i was seeing/feeling when we had all that oil on the JE pistons...also the JE have hardly any skirt and very large clearance...its ironic that the rods are bent inline with the gudgen as there would have been nothing but rod stopping that from occuring.

When i removed the chain last weekend it was definitly not right...i couldnt get the locking pins to line up properly as per the mercedes workshop manual info...its all a bit wierd though i clearly remember locking it when i reassembled,maybe it jumped a tooth.....im not sure how we got 300hp at the rear on this engine with 2 bent rods and incorrect timing....lol

The clutch wasnt too bad its got some uneven hot spots around 1/3 of it and same on the pp,so maybe uneven clamp pressure im not sure...it chatterd a bit in reverse...and only sometimes forwards...the pressure plate shows the thrust bearing is holding pressure against it when disengaged...but if i push the bearing in by hand it comes back out again on its own...is that normal or do i have a valve problem?

Turns out iv got the wrong injectors too...which wouldnt help...need to get split fire ones so that fuel is aimed at the valves...iv also got a second hand pump lined up from the C43 which is apparently more grunty.
Looking to get some injectors out of and evo...preferbly the 560cc ones from evo7 onwards,would require some slight changes to the mounting however thats the easy bit.

Once all this is good to go will need to truck it to the dyno again dont think im to keen to risk a 2.5 hour drive there with possible incorrect tuning.

Somtimes engine builders use torque plates to simulate head bolt distortion on the block while it is honed...so that there is near perfect clearance when all bolted up...even more extreme is to heat the block to operating temp as well.
Aparently not all blocks require a torque plate but there are some engines that abosolutly require it for normal sealing...i wouldnt see any harm in doing it to the M111 but its just another cost and do i really need to do it?. hmmmm

man were do you get it dynoed.... wellington? :-p
lots of questions,
what sort of nozzles do your injectors have? 4 nozzles?
i wouldnt worry about that at all, that wont be your problem into the future just leave the injectors and fuel pump alone if there working!
well thats what i think anyway, i dont think you are stressing your engine enough to risk dropping a valve from overheating, thats just getting overboard.

torque plate sounds overkill aswell.

thats alot of hp tho for a engine in that condition, man shes gona have some hp when its mint.

yeh its a pain not having a garage,im looking for a better place atm so i can bring it back to auckland anywhere decent and close to town is 550 - 650 per week and im fully over the flattie situation.

the siemens 550cc injectors i have are a single nossel.after talking with the tuners they highly recommend swapping them out for split spray injectors...my OE 280cc ones were split spray.
Maybe some OE 570cc GTR ones will do it... http://http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31052

Im alittle concered about the stock fuel pump,its likely to be close to limit i would rather pay $100 and have the V8's added insurance at this sort of hp...i dont have a knock sensor no more =P

Hmm yeh im not sold on the torque plate either...just waiting on a price from the engineers.

Rods are balanced,the largest difference was 3.5g...not too bad i guess,bob the balancer gave them a 4/10....

, oh yep, i didnt realise your injectors are single nozzle! ive upgraded twice now and both times they had four nozzles, and my standard had 2.

i didnt realise you had your stock fuel pump, altho the stock fuel pumps are pritty good, but an upgrade could help to ensure you get enough fuel,
a way to check the fuel pump is to when it is on the dyno take off the fuel return line from the fuel rail and run it into a container, and make sure its always returning fuel even under a full load run to ensure it isnt starving any of the injectors.
you will have to change a few things around the pump area i beleive,
well if i was to change to a c43 fuel pump i would have to change pipes etc, ive looked it up before

0o what make injectors do you have in the quad tip?...i think once you get up around the 450+cc the availible aftermarket spray patterns are mostly single jet!.

Aha,i was going to call in to check this pump today and see what size pipes it runs in the hope it was the same as stock,changing it is a bit of a pain but can be done i guess(*seriously considers leaving stocker in^^)

oh and iv got fuel press on the defi display should be able to see a drop of in pressure if we are having problems,i forget iv got those readings,can save and playback to which would be handy instead of trying to read it at wot.
might wait and check that first before i replace the pump,only problem with that is we will be on the dyno at the time so at about $3.50 incl gst per minute hopfully i can transplant it fast if need be =).

Got flywheel back,looks all shinny like yours did(yours still makeing whirling noises from the grinding marks?)...i thought that the clunking noise mine sometimes makes was the sprung hub reaching its limit stops....turns out its never once got that far...so its the gearbox play causing it hmm the 5-speed really is a heap in the 202,tempted to get the 6-speed trans from up the road its apparently much better,bolts up nice to the M111 should be able to use same clutch setup,just change the gear shifter part of the box and the 6-speed no longer uses drag links...need to find out if the shifter lines up with the oe gearstick hole and if the driveshaft is the right length..

myne are 440cc bosch ones out of a v8 mustang i beleive, i got 8 of them off ebay'
ooOoo
how much is the 6 speed box?
clutch still squeeks a little bit but i think its reducing

Checked out that pump the lines are the same size as mine it would appear,though not sure if its direct fit yet it looks slightly longer.

That 6-speed is a $1000 if i recall,its brand new,though i think it will end up costing substantially more as the gear shifter part that connects to the rear of the box needs to be swapped for the sedan version.