400E brakes on early 124 - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gsxr · #61 02-18-2010, 08:15 PM

On a black car, I'd go with black or red caliper paint. Just my $0.02...

ps2cho · #62 02-25-2010, 07:55 PM

I think I am also leaning towards black. Black it is!

Ordered the parts I needed today:
2x New 22mm Balo Vented Rotors
2x New OEM Brake Lines
1x New Mintex Brake Pad Set

What is the best way check that the calipers don't need to be rebuilt? Or should I just throw them on and see how they act?

Also, what brake fluid are you guys using? Should I get anything special or just head to walmart and get some generic DOT3?

I can't wait to change the fluid...I wouldn't doubt this brake fluid is 6+ years old.

gsxr · #63 02-25-2010, 08:29 PM

What I do is put a wood block approx 20-25mm thick between the pads and apply compressed air - very carefully! - to make the pistons s-l-o-w-l-y press outward. If one piston "sticks" and doesn't move when the others all do, it's suspect.

To try and "prep" used calipers, I'll cycle the pistons in & out (press back with pliers) multiple times. If a piston is just slightly sticky, this cycling can free up things well enough to make them work fine. If a piston is really sticky it will be visible via the compressed air method. If one or more pistons don't move smoothly / evenly, the caliper should probably be rebuilt with new piston rings/seals. This is an advanced DIY project and you shouldn't split the caliper halves if you do this. The procedure is in the WIS, and maybe the FSM too.

To test the calipers on the car, install & drive them for a while. A sticking piston will cause the brakes to drag slightly, reducing MPG, or in extreme cases it will cause an overheated brake pad & odor. This is relatively rare though. If both sides spin equally freely, they're fine.

Side note - I have a set of 334mm Brembos for sale in the classifieds, if anyone is interested in monster brakes for their 124 - click here.

ps2cho · #64 03-03-2010, 09:28 PM

Thanks^

I was doing some more reading and some people said that when the car is lowered, I will definitely need the updated LCA.

Help me understand this better...do I need the entire arm, or just the "bushing/ball joint?" I don't really know what the control arms need...What is the "knuckle"?
Like I've said before...I'm new to all this, but not afraid to do it

EDIT: Oh one more question...Would all the Sportline stuff work? I bet I'm not far off from all sportline parts..!?

I got all my parts minus the LCA if I need them

These Balo rotors look great quality!

JayRash · #65 03-04-2010, 02:21 AM

The LCA on your car has a ball joint that is detachable, when u fit the larger disk and caliper u will end up with a clearance of abt 1mm between the disk and this ball joint.
No matter what some ppl might say, 1mm is not enough as i found out my self on my W124 few years back. If the bearing is slightly worn, or i the ball joint has play the disk will hit the ball joint with spectacular consequences.

So what you need to do is buy the newer LCA which has the ball jointed welded to it, ie not removable/ exchangeable, sportline LCAs also come with welded ball joints.

ps2cho · #66 03-04-2010, 10:53 AM

Ok thanks Jay, that makes sense now.

Seeing as it has to be removed, I might as well for sure do the Sportline bushings. Is there any noticeable increase in road noise/vibrations?
According to Gsxr's site, there is an early and a late bushing kit, which one should I go for?

Anybody know the part # for the sportline LCA's? I couldn't find it on Gsxr's site.. I can only find what the bushing kit is....Did they just use the 400E ones /w the bushings or are they different?

gsxr · #67 03-04-2010, 12:06 PM

The standard late-model LCA's with non-replaceable ball joints are part numbers:
124-330-34-07 (left)
124-330-35-07 (right)

The Sportline late-model LCA's with non-replaceable ball joints are part numbers:
124-330-36-07 (left)
124-330-37-07 (right)

Check the prices on both. Remember, they come with brand new bushings! I would buy the standard LCA's since they are available for ~$180 each aftermarket. The Sportline versions are only available via a dealer (online or otherwise) and will cost over $400 each. I don't think they're worth twice the money, just for stiffer bushings. There is DEFINITELY an increase in firmness with the Sportline bushings (transmits more road feel / vibration / etc), so if you would like to retain some ride comfort, skip the Sportline option. For all-out performance, the Sportline bushings are great.

ps2cho · #68 03-04-2010, 12:16 PM

I'll keep the wagon for comfort....so Sportline bushings it is!
You are right though to me it is not worth over $800 for the actual LCA...Do the ball joint wear out the same on the later LCA's? I ask this in case I find a 400E at the junkyard...just seeing if its worth buying new or if used work work alright.

jhodg5ck · #69 03-04-2010, 12:37 PM

I still don't have any issues on old LCA's running E420 brakes.. And I Hammer the S&^t out of my brakes.. Lowering hasn't proved to be any issue either.

The later LCA's are a pain, you can't rebuild them..just need to get a whole new arm...quite the waste IMHO.

ps2cho · #70 03-04-2010, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhodg5ck

I still don't have any issues on old LCA's running E420 brakes.. And I Hammer the S&^t out of my brakes.. Lowering hasn't proved to be any issue either.

The later LCA's are a pain, you can't rebuild them..just need to get a whole new arm...quite the waste IMHO.

I meant to PM you over the lowering...but thanks for responding

I guess I will try it without the LCA first, and if it is too close for my liking, I am now prepared with all the info I need to replace them so I don't need to bug you guys anymore.... I think I am set!

Thanks again,

gsxr · #71 03-04-2010, 01:46 PM

Remember that if you remove the LCA, or replace it, or even loosen the bolts, you'll need to get a dealer alignment afterwards (or risk chewing up your tires). I like to do all suspension work at the same time and then pay for one alignment, rather than doing things piecemeal and needing multiple alignments. This includes steering links as well (tie rods, drag link, idler arm bushings).

ps2cho · #72 03-04-2010, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Remember that if you remove the LCA, or replace it, or even loosen the bolts, you'll need to get a dealer alignment afterwards (or risk chewing up your tires). I like to do all suspension work at the same time and then pay for one alignment, rather than doing things piecemeal and needing multiple alignments. This includes steering links as well (tie rods, drag link, idler arm bushings).

These tires are toasted from being on my 300TE with bad rear arms for like 20k miles...Outsides are all scrubbed, so not worried about an alignment at this point

But for future reference, do I need to take the car to a MB specialist for an alignment?

gsxr · #73 03-04-2010, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

But for future reference, do I need to take the car to a MB specialist for an alignment?

Preferably an MB dealership, if the car is lowered request that it be aligned to "Sports undercarriage" specs, and ask for a printout of before & after numbers.

99% of all other alignment shops will NOT have the spreader bar required to properly set toe on an MB, and/or will not know how to compensate for this if they don't have the bar. And they will almost never center the steering box (the box, not the wheel) prior to beginning the alignment. If you know for certain that a particular indy shop does a LOT of Mercedes alignments with good results, it might be worth the gamble, but otherwise just take it to the dealer. Typical cost is $100.

ps2cho · #74 03-13-2010, 02:40 AM

Might be picking up some 400E LCA's tomorrow. Got a tip that there are 2 400E's at a local yard...Is the sportline bushing kit a dealer only item?

I can assume all my suspension items are probably still original...would it be sensible to replace my tie rods with everything apart considering they are relatively cheap?

gsxr · #75 03-13-2010, 05:11 PM

Yes... new left & right tie rod assemblies would be a good idea, along with a new drag link. Test the steering shock, replace it if necessary (should require significant force to push it in & out by hand). Grab the idler arm and try to move it up & down, there should be very little play (I think spec is 1mm max movement). If there's any excessive play at the idler arm, the bushings should be replaced. I just installed all these steering parts on my E500 while the motor was out... after it's running again, I have to take it straight to the dealer for an alignment! It should be good for another 100kmi now.