W58 won't survive behind an m119. I
Have an 1982 Toyota truck with a 130-140 whp 22R hybrid and I go thru a good w58 about every two or three years.

I would love to see your project. I used to have a 77 celica with a 5.0\t5. Engine fit, but the firewall and trans tunnel is made for tiny Toyota size trannies. A T5 needed a lot of metal cut out to fit.

Back to working on the Benz!

A few photos. First is draining the fluid of the diff that's coming back out. (1992 SL300 diff that has a 3.69 gear). Second is with the coupling/guibo bolted on it. Third is an adapter that I had bought from Jagthatrun.com years ago. Oddly it's a dual pattern 3 yolk and the sl300 didn't fit either bolt holes.








So the next step for me is to take my diff and the adapter to a machinist and turn up something that is very similar, but

1- Has the correct 4 bolt flange holes and
2- alter the design so it can accept a ford fox body sized driveshaft piece (for the u joint).

Pics to follow...

Are the holes "egged" out?


Or change the diff flange to either of the three-legged types.

Ha. My bad. Bad pun right there.

I have a 3 legged flange. Doesn't line up with either of the patterns on the silver adapter. Maybe it fits other earlier differentials, but not either of the 185mm units I have.

I'd go straight for the Ford bolt on driveshaft. You will need a slip yoke so go to a Ranger / Explorer ( some ) / IRS Mustang - T Bird.

For off the shelf adapter discs, have a look at the BMW guys as I'm pretty sure someone makes one.

The Explorer with IRS ( some ) has a driveshaft with a very long yoke spline. Pretty much picture a tube with splines that fits into another tube with splines. I probably would not use it due to weight.

Side view of my new diff to driveshaft adapter I just picked up. The one I bought years ago was a 3 yoke and my 400e is a 4 yoke.

Since no two people can agree on a transmission, a thought crossed my mind. What if instead of a completed adapter plate with one pattern for the M119 and a second for a transmission, how about a generic plate with the M117/M119 pattern in it, and extra material on the OD for the end user to transfer the trans pattern to?

I think the price would have to be very affordable to attract buyers.

__________________
Glen Tokuhara
Beauty & the Beast and the wagon that could!

It's 100% custom work. Every little detail has to be specific to what your trying to do. And honestly bolting an engine and trans together is probably the easiest part!

It is.

Glenn:

I am just trying to figure out a way that the group can benefit from the original concept effort. I can put almost any bell housing pattern on a plate that has both M117 and M119 patterns in it, but the problem is the flywheel, crank trigger, and starter combination. There are a couple of ways to go about it which would include going with an aftermarket Ford type starter with a m119 ring gear, or in the case of CTH's 420G, using the BMW ring gear, (if is a separate part of the flywheel) would allow the use of the MB starter. I know some are very touchy about mixing brands...

The 420G pattern worked out quite nicely on top of both the M117/M119 patterns. The SBC not so much as I recall, (it has been a while since I last looked at it), but I want to see how well a Chrysler pattern fits as it is a rounded bell like the MB bell, and for the most part the 420G bell.

Edit: I just ordered a BMW automatic flywheel so I can harvest the ring rear off of it. It would be great if the crank trigger wheel slots matched the M119.. That would make it so much easier..

check these guys out before you cut that Flywheel up.The price could be about the same but open up clutch options. They could set it up to attach the ring gear to the flywheel i would say.

Wilcap Company Flywheels

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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com

OM616 & others:

In the process of obtaining engine blocks, and sections of blocks, to get bolt patterns, has any of them been a M116-4.2 block (aluminum)?
Does anyone have a broken, otherwise unusable 4.2 block?
I would like to section one, or if another person who has a block is willing to do some cutting, I would pay for their time. My interest is in determining the minimum cylinder wall thickness, specifically for the 4.2 casting. As near as I can tell, each of the variations (3.8[two versions], 4.2, 5.0, 5.6) is unique in their castings.
All help in obtaining the information, or a damaged block, will be much appreciated.

Frank,

The block sections that I sent Dave way back when are a M117 5.0 and an M119 5.0. -cth

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Why cut a block apart?

Use an ultrasonic checker found at any performance oriented auto machine shop or calipers designed to slide through coolant holes in the deck. ( if there are coolant holes )

Cheaper to mail the back 2.5 cylinders than all 8. Easier to store too. There are pictures on this thread abut it. -cth