Non MB trans to MB engines - Page 31 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rwd4evr · #**451** 02-21-2017, 09:50 PM

I may have a us 3.8 to pull apart soon. But it's small bore 88mm version. I'm still waiting to hear from Wilcap about flywheels but it should be 450-500$ for a custom Piece. I just got a 500sel for it's closed deck m119. It's gonna be time to get it all together soon.

97 SL320 · #**452** 02-22-2017, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cth350

Cheaper to mail the back 2.5 cylinders than all 8. Easier to store too. There are pictures on this thread abut it. -cth

Even more cheaper to pay someone to take the block to a machine shop and do a while you wait sonic thickness check.

Sonic cylinder wall thickness checks are common when building a high HP engine. With cast blocks the inner core can shift leaving a thick / thin cylinder wall that can lead to failure.

rwd4evr · #**453** 02-22-2017, 02:09 PM

I don't know but are the alloy m116/117 closed deck blocks? If so they could be bored and have steel or iron sleeves installed. I have that planned possibly for my m119 project. Steel sleeves with lightweight forged Subaru 100mm pistons and custom rods for the final engine combo after the main bugs are all worked out and I have a good handle on the tuning with boost.

OM616 · #**454** 02-26-2017, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Reiner

OM616 & others:

In the process of obtaining engine blocks, and sections of blocks, to get bolt patterns, has any of them been a M116-4.2 block (aluminum)?
Does anyone have a broken, otherwise unusable 4.2 block?
I would like to section one, or if another person who has a block is willing to do some cutting, I would pay for their time. My interest is in determining the minimum cylinder wall thickness, specifically for the 4.2 casting. As near as I can tell, each of the variations (3.8[two versions], 4.2, 5.0, 5.6) is unique in their castings.
All help in obtaining the information, or a damaged block, will be much appreciated.

I measured the cylinder wall thickness of the M117 (Alloy) and M119 block sections that CTH sent me.

The M117 ranged from .315" to .285" thick. The M119 cylinder wall taper in towards the deck and the thinnest spot I found was .215" thick.

OM616 · #**455** 02-26-2017, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

I may have a us 3.8 to pull apart soon. But it's small bore 88mm version. I'm still waiting to hear from Wilcap about flywheels but it should be 450-500$ for a custom Piece. I just got a 500sel for it's closed deck m119. It's gonna be time to get it all together soon.

Please let us know if the $500 flywheel is a real thing as that is what is holding us up. There is no way I can touch that price.

CTH, I picked up a BMW ring gear with a crank trigger built into it and it has the same number of windows as the MB crank trigger, so, I would prefer to use the BMW ring gear so the 420G starter location will match. Unfortunately BMW uses a coarser gear pitch than MB so a BMW starter will have to be used, unless the Bendix will fit on the MB starter.

Frank Reiner · #**456** 02-26-2017, 04:27 PM

OM616:

The cyl. wall info is much appreciated; thank you.

rwd4evr · #**457** 02-28-2017, 09:20 AM

I hope wilcap can do it. it would most likely require your own m119 auto ring gear. or a m116/117 would work if your using an adapter plate and set the starter up to that position. I need to call the guy. haven't got an email back yet.

Frank Reiner · #**458** 02-28-2017, 10:30 AM

rwd, et al:

On the flywheel front, have a look again at posts #238 - 240 of this thread. The Ford Modular wheel can be modified to accept a ring gear of 322mm OD as used with aluminum block M116/117 (and perhaps M119) engines.

Raffaelli · #**459** 02-28-2017, 10:41 AM

Frank- looks like a nice setup. But it looks like you eliminated the timing tabs (or does your old engine not use them?).

You have a distributor I'm assuming?

rwd4evr · #**460** 02-28-2017, 11:09 AM

Yes I'm fully aware of that idea. It is what I was planning on doing g if I had to. But I figure it's a couple hundred for a decent mod motor flywheel. Then more for machining that can go bad, Or worse just slightly off and it kinda works. If this company can do it for a good price and they specialize in flywheels I'd rather go that route.

Frank Reiner · #**461** 02-28-2017, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raffaelli

Frank- looks like a nice setup. But it looks like you eliminated the timing tabs (or does your old engine not use them?).

You have a distributor I'm assuming?

That particular installation was run with a trigger wheel on the front of the crank, and a cam/ignition sync signal taken from the distributor location.

If using a Kjet system, an OEM distributor w/mag pickup (pre-1986) works fine.

Frank Reiner · #**462** 02-28-2017, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

Yes I'm fully aware of that idea. It is what I was planning on doing g if I had to. But I figure it's a couple hundred for a decent mod motor flywheel. Then more for machining that can go bad, Or worse just slightly off and it kinda works. If this company can do it for a good price and they specialize in flywheels I'd rather go that route.

Check this.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjHq_TA-bPSAhXizFQKHb_7Bx04ChAWCBswAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dragtimes.com%2Fparts%2FNEW-OEM-FLYWHEEL-96-04-FORD-MUSTANG-GT-46L-8-BOLT_400244558583.html&usg=AFQjCNGz7zIQvvs_ngn_5y9rr2MhxszCAA

rwd4evr · #**463** 02-28-2017, 10:58 PM

I belive the 11" clutch will interfere with the timing sensor. but if its getting machined im sure it could be drilled for 10.5"
I cant recall for sure but i believe the alloy m117/116 and m119 use the same smaller ring gear and the iron block m116/117 use a larger one.

rwd4evr · #**464** 01-18-2018, 06:46 PM

stalled again i see. Im learning a new 3d cad program and i thought i remembered someone mentioning dxf files of the m119 pattern. the ford pattern for a t 5 is easy. if i can get the pattern i can draw it up and have it 3d printed, possibly in aluminum. if not, in plastic then cast it and the same cad file can machine it. im 3d printing some parts for my m117 turbo air meter i hope. id rater skip a step and put a m119 in the car though. too much work to put the 4 speed from the m117 on a m119 and possibly break it. ive alreadt got an auto bell that will easily adapt a t5 to the iron m117 but...... either way if anyone has dxf or dwg files of trans patterns i want them. prices to print are coming way down. the simplest thing still is a plate bolted on the motor with the bell that belong to the trans of choice doweled and bolted to it. a cad/cam mill can knock that out easy or even just have the coordinates printed and laid out to do it manually.

Simpler=Better · #**465** 02-06-2018, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

stalled again i see. Im learning a new 3d cad program and i thought i remembered someone mentioning dxf files of the m119 pattern. the ford pattern for a t 5 is easy. if i can get the pattern i can draw it up and have it 3d printed, possibly in aluminum. if not, in plastic then cast it and the same cad file can machine it. im 3d printing some parts for my m117 turbo air meter i hope. id rater skip a step and put a m119 in the car though. too much work to put the 4 speed from the m117 on a m119 and possibly break it. ive alreadt got an auto bell that will easily adapt a t5 to the iron m117 but...... either way if anyone has dxf or dwg files of trans patterns i want them. prices to print are coming way down. the simplest thing still is a plate bolted on the motor with the bell that belong to the trans of choice doweled and bolted to it. a cad/cam mill can knock that out easy or even just have the coordinates printed and laid out to do it manually.

Just sent you an email with attachments. I'm in a hurry, can't remember if it has a t5 or not.