Ok. Hear is what I am doing. I am installing the subframe from a e420 and planning on building new toe links to get rid of some of the bump toe. I also want to install a late model differential out of something with a larger diff that I can put a quaife in. I also do not want to spit it all on the ground with good traction. I was thinking of reinforcing the subframe and maybe getting one of the new diffs that has two or four front bolts and two in the rear. This might be overkill but I was throwing the idea around. I also wanted to install larger half shafts when I do the diff. I will probably wait on the diff and axles until I break something but the subframe and tie rods are going in soon. Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

for diff mabe a asd from a desil? i want to swap mine out for a longer ratio, anyone know what ratios the asd was avalible in?

e500 used 129 500sl bits i believe?

driveshafts... let me know, i want stronger ones for mine.

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ce 320 amg
widebody
tiwn turbo
Mutty 'der nail'
soon to be a six speed nail


"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often

I am actually planning on going with something out of a w220 s class or another with the same housing. I am fairly sure that I can install a quaife and richmond gears and have a pretty much bullet proof rear end. I might even just get a srt-8 diff and swap that in with the half axles. I was going to go look at one to see if it would work.
The MB diffs with good ratios are to small. I plan on breaking some stuff this summer and might as well start putting some repl. parts in the garage.

Nick

If I recall a 3.67:1 was available in the TD...

Ed

__________________
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...c/GOWIDE-1.jpg
1971 280SL ROADSTER
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO WIDEBODY
1994 E320 CABRIOLET
1999 C43 AMG
2005 G55K AMG
2008 CLK63 AMG BLACK SERIES

cheers ed.

__________________
ce 320 amg
widebody
tiwn turbo
Mutty 'der nail'
soon to be a six speed nail


"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often

OFF TOPIC

Cheers to you young man !!!!

Waiting for word that my Black Series will be picked up today at the dealer and begin it's journey north to me...

Ed A.

__________________
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...c/GOWIDE-1.jpg
1971 280SL ROADSTER
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO WIDEBODY
1994 E320 CABRIOLET
1999 C43 AMG
2005 G55K AMG
2008 CLK63 AMG BLACK SERIES

What kind of ratio are you looking for, and do you have an overdrive transmission?

The 210mm diff from the 500E can deal with 500lb-ft / 500hp without any trouble, how much stronger do you need it? No point in reinventing the wheel if you can avoid it (i.e., I would NOT screw around with installing a W220 diff or different / custom axle shafts). The 500E stuff is already strong enough and proven over the years behind both normally aspirated and supercharged 6.0L engines. I have never heard of anyone blowing up any of those stock V8 driveline parts.

Limited-slip is a separate discussion... if your car does not have ASR, the Quaife QDF5V should bolt in to the W124/R129 210mm diff with 2.65-3.06 gears. If you have to have super low gears (i.e., 3.69) you'll likely not find any off-the-shelf Quaife solution. You may still be able to get a factory clutch-type LSD for those ratios though.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

GSXR, Have you or anyone else put a QDF5V in. I was looking at this and it looks like it should work. I measured the carrier roughly once and it seems correct. I would like to keep my 3.27 gears. I have the larger 124 diff in the coupes and according to the epc it should work. I just did not want to spend the money on a special order quaife and not have it fit. I also want to be able to hit this thing pretty hard at the drag strip. I can make close to 300lbft of torque at the wheels leaving the line if I can get it to hook up. I plan on making more in the future and was thinking I would like to only do this once. I was going to see what would break first. My car shifts pretty damn hard at full throttle also. I do not think that bolting the diff in will be hard at all. The only thing will be the length of the half shafts and I am pretty sure that this will work also. The w208 and w210 carried both the larger diff and the smaller diff. I think the w129 and the w203 w209 did also. This should not be a big deal. I have also been looking at richmond gears and the srt8 diffs. This would be ideal and I could have 3.5 and 3.73 gears on the 210mm diff.

I have not, and I don't know anyone who has installed the QDF5V into a 124/129 diff. I know that it's not a bolt-in for ASR diffs, but it *might* work with a little tweaking on an ABS diff. However it will still only work with 2.65, 2.82, or 3.06 gears. It has the wrong dimensions for the 3.27 gearset. I still want to make this work in an ASR diff, as the factory clutch-type LSD's don't play nice with ASR, and the Quaife is supposed to eliminate this issue.



Again, the 6.0L cars make that much torque or more at launch, and have no issues with breaking stuff. The W124 V8 drivetrain is very stout, front to back. I'd use that before screwing with any 203/208/209/210 stuff.



The diff housings changed around 1995 or so, and may not have the ABS sensor hole required, if your car has ABS. If that is the case, they would also lack the toothed ring on the pinion to drive the ABS sensor, which in turn means you can't just drill a hole in the housing and stick a sensor in there. If your car has ASR, that may actually be easier, although you'd have to convert to the late setup with the ASR sensors at the wheel hub instead of at the diff housing. I'm not sure how easy of that would be.

Also remember that low gears like 3.5x-3.7x will mostly just drop your launch times (60 foot, 0-60, etc) by a tenth or two. And, they may actually cause more traction problems. I'd stick with something closer to 3.06-3.27 ratios...

Thanks for the info. I am picking up my subframe this weekend. I am getting the whole rear end out of a e420 actually. As far as speed pickups it is not important I can send out the required data if I want to the abs and this is quickly becoming a race car only. I have another daily driver. I am also planning running a wet clutch if I can get it all hooked up in the future. I would like to leave the line at 3-4000 rpm if I can. This is all long term and I am also planning or running a compound charge system in the future for higher boost. I will of course build a short block first. We will see if I break anything this summer. And go from there.

So I got the subframe today. GSXR, I was looking at quiafe units again and got led back to your home page info. Which I have never mentioned before but is fantastic. I saw the pictures of the quaife unit there and I was looking at the thread on benzworld about this unit for the w126 diff. I do not see any reason that the unit should not fit. I also am going to have measure my diff and see what the difference is in the coupe. It has 3.27 gears in the big case. I also do not see any reason that the quaife unit could not be shimed to accept these gears. A machine shop could easily do this. If you look at the qdf7 and qdf8 the only difference is the thickness of the L4 dimension and that would be for different gear ratios. I also was looking at the ring rear bolt dimension for the 7 and 8 compared to the 5 and they are all the same. So it just comes down to spacing on the ring rear to the pinion for different gear sets.

thanks for the reply gsxr, for me fitting the e500 stuff would be the easyest option (if i could find such things), but, i aint sure about a few things... is the e500 stuff the same as a 129 sl? i had one lined up (129 5000 slcomplete sub frame and diff, shafts...) a few months back, but it fell through.

do all 500 129s have the clutch diff?

are the driveshafts uprated.

as for power, mine has still not been to the rollin road since the m/s was fitted, ( am about to fit air to water i/c and meth inj, so dont want to waste cash on two setups, megatune tune is ok for now)

i am gettin correct afr's at 17psi, and it is really really fast, (i am a biker, and do know what fast is btw!). i keep brakin half shafts(manual trans (getrag) and twin unprung paddel clutch) and really do need a 'fix' for the drivetrain i am thinkin the sl600 and e500 etc, but even thou they were all powerfullish, they were also auto with a big spunge to soak up the 'snap' of the engagement of the clutch that keeps brakin my stuff!

also, with the auto diff, it revs out at 150 ish, and i recon will be quicker all round with a longer ratio in the rear, having enough tourque to pull a highet ratio should make it better all round.

__________________
ce 320 amg
widebody
tiwn turbo
Mutty 'der nail'
soon to be a six speed nail


"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often

The dimensions are all great, the problem is inserting the diff into the housing. The factory diffs either have tapered housings (non-LSD) or a large notch in the housing (LSD) which facilitates installation. The QDF5V has neither. I had to grind an ASR housing a fair amount just to install the factory LSD... the Quaife would be much more work to install, if it's even possible. It should be a lot easier on a non-ASR diff though. I was hoping Jono would have more info by now but I think he's too busy polishing that new Hammer wagon with diapers, lol.



Yes, it may be possible to use shims... I meant it was not a bolt-in with any other gears. You'd have to determine the exact thickness and get one made to within fractions of a mm to get it right. Otherwise you'll never get the gears to mesh properly (won't "blue" the teeth). These diffs are a pain to set up, lots of assembly / disassembly trying different shims to get backlash & preload to spec. Worse yet, some of the shims are NLA from MB and you're stuck either compromising on specs, or fabricating custom shims to ~0.05mm... not fun.



If you can get the QDF5V installed with the ring gear mounted, then yep, it's just a matter of the proper spacers & shims to get the pattern correct. If Quaife would build the QDF5V with a tapered housing (like some of the other Quaife diffs), instead of the blasted sealed-cylinder design, this would be a non-issue. Oh yeah, remember that the axle flanges will no longer be locked in placed... can't put C-clips in there. Allegedly the flanges remain in place well enough so the seals keep oil inside.

It depends on the year. The early R129 (129.066 with CIS injection) had the same diff but with 2.65 gears. The later cars have different housings, the "reinforced" 210mm diff... totally different.


Not sure what you mean? They don't have limited-slip, they are "open" diffs.


Nope, not for the early R129, they are the same as the 400E/500E stuff (which is uprated from the 6-cyl, I think). The later ones with the reinforced diffs have larger axle shafts. Also, ASR axle shafts are thicker / stronger than non-ASR axle shafts. They may be shorter as well - I'm not sure.


What halfshafts are you breaking? Stock 6-cyl, non-ASR halfshafts? If so, upgrading to the 500E parts should cure that.

Well I got the subframe mostly torn down today. Made one differential mount will test fit it tomorrow. I will probably transfer my subframe mounts from my other one. Tore down the diff today and cleaned it up. I was going to take measurements on it. I want to pull the 3.27 ratio diff apart and compare parts but I may have to wait a little on this. I might try and pull it out this week if I get a chance, but the car cannot be driven right know. I was also going to compare diff rear covers and see what else will bolt in. Axles are the same thickness but the inner cv joint is bigger on the v8 diff. Atleast in looking at it.
definitely bigger bolts.