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  #46  
Old 03-16-2011, 06:49 PM
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i doubt it, because when i removed mine and installed the one you sent to me, i replaced it with a good one..

but i'll double check in the morning to make sure.

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  #47  
Old 03-17-2011, 04:48 AM
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i set the ezl to 7.. maybe its too much retard? im using 98 ron fuel . should i try N?300SEL Twin Turbo Project.-a2.jpg

Last edited by osama; 03-19-2011 at 07:02 AM.
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  #48  
Old 03-17-2011, 05:46 PM
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check this out

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/?requestedDocId=12253
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  #49  
Old 03-20-2011, 02:43 PM
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tomorrow the new spark plug wires will be here... we'll see if they make any difference.
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  #50  
Old 03-21-2011, 09:54 AM
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Thanks to the political and occupational situation we face here.. i had to wait 3 days and counting for the spark plug wires to arrive from a country that is only 2 hours drive from where i live.

arghhh waiting can be so frustrating.
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  #51  
Old 03-23-2011, 04:18 AM
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we got the wires.. installed them, the car runs much smoother, idle is better.. performance is a bit better.. but still there is a spark from the wires to the head inside the hole were the wire connects to the plug. all 6 of them, we also changed the spark plugs with new NGK BP5EFS ones without gapping. what do you think the problem is ??



The lag is still there.. we will test for a leak tonight.
here is a video showing the RPM & Boost & AFR .. its a bit shakey, sorry.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jdDaKT7GcA


here is another video showing the oil pressure drop problem.. we are using 15w40 castrol GT.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltAlYYRJXyU
Attached Thumbnails
300SEL Twin Turbo Project.-110322_165201.jpg   300SEL Twin Turbo Project.-110322_165241.jpg  
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  #52  
Old 03-23-2011, 07:02 AM
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your oil pressure problem, looks like a loose wire to the oil pressure sensor. Can you take a picture of your engine running in the dark, to see the spark leak you are talking about, because if the lead heads are arc'ing then they are bad. Try wrapping them in insulation tape to see if it helps.
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  #53  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taint View Post
your oil pressure problem, looks like a loose wire to the oil pressure sensor. Can you take a picture of your engine running in the dark, to see the spark leak you are talking about, because if the lead heads are arc'ing then they are bad. Try wrapping them in insulation tape to see if it helps.
I will take a picture and a video tonight.. but if it was a loose wire wouldn't the pressure drop on all gears.. while in my case it drops when its in D , N and P it stays at 1.

i'll check tonight and report back.

also tonight im gonna change the valve installed on the vacuume line to the intake manifold and to the gear box.. we suspect its not always functional.

im just thinking out loud here.. but wouldn't the orifice in the vacuume line from the intake manifold to the gearbox modulator, wouldn't it count as a leake? because when i close it the car idles much better and the AFR is more stable. while if i open the orifice the car idle is rough and the afr gets leaner and less stable.

im starting to pull my hair here.. although working on the car is fun and interesting.. but im not getting results.. and that is frustrating.
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  #54  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:43 AM
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for the gearbox line install a one way valve like that found on the brake servo line. install on a T connection so that when on idle the manifold puls the valve shut and cannot suck air in. and when boosting the valve will open and vent the boost out thus gearbox shifts. to be safe try and put a restrictor in the hose going to the box after the one way valve. use the smallest gaz regulator valve as a restrictor. ( regular butane gaz valve ask and u will find it)
__________________
Jay,
-----------------
-1995 Blue W202 C36 AMG (M) SOLD ;(
-1995 Black W140 S500 (Lady)
-1992 Black W124 E300 (Dima) (Ex-Mosselman
Twin turbo Kit).
-1988 Black W124 300 E 4-Matic.(Nadeen)
-1983 Brown W126 500SEL.(Old Lady)(Sold)
-1981 Gold W123 280CE.(Dareen)(Sold)
http://www.youtube.com/user/jayrasheed
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  #55  
Old 03-23-2011, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osama View Post
I will take a picture and a video tonight.. but if it was a loose wire wouldn't the pressure drop on all gears.. while in my case it drops when its in D , N and P it stays at 1.
What other gears are they besides Neutral/Park, Drive/Reverse they are just a change of load from the engines point of view.

The way the pressure its droping is to fast for 200 rpm drop when you select gears and it seems to be triggered when you select gear, It still makes me suspect a faulty connection.

Can't really say much on your lag issues.

What setup are you running?
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  #56  
Old 03-23-2011, 07:32 PM
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im sorry i couldn't get a pic or a video tonight, i took the car to guy who checked it with some sort of a computer, its like a heart beat pulse screen, and he told me that i had no electrical issues at all. so i took his word for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRash View Post
for the gearbox line install a one way valve like that found on the brake servo line. install on a T connection so that when on idle the manifold puls the valve shut and cannot suck air in. and when boosting the valve will open and vent the boost out thus gearbox shifts. to be safe try and put a restrictor in the hose going to the box after the one way valve. use the smallest gaz regulator valve as a restrictor. ( regular butane gaz valve ask and u will find it)
Its done, we rebuilt everything in this area, and used new hoses and found out the orifice was a bit big because of an error i made
anyway we got too busy looking for a leak.. and thankfully we found one. its a hose on the boot assembly that connnects the air valve assembly with the throttle body..

jay, can i use your pic??



since this hose does not clamb to anything and is just inserted in its place, we are thinking about applying hot silicone on it.. it will seal it shut and its easy to remove if ever needed.

if i can get my hands on one like the one Ed has.. the Turbo Techniques one.. with the additional injectors and a place for the hose to round on and simply use a clamb.. but i know its almost impossible to find one.

anyways..

we will also apply some kind of paste that will turn into rubber after its dry on all the places where a leak can happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by taint View Post
What other gears are they besides Neutral/Park, Drive/Reverse they are just a change of load from the engines point of view.

The way the pressure its droping is to fast for 200 rpm drop when you select gears and it seems to be triggered when you select gear, It still makes me suspect a faulty connection.
you have a point there.. i will check the sensors related to the oil pressure. i may have forgot to mention that this only happens after boost.. so lets say i drive the car for 2 hours without boost at all.. this will never happen.. only after i rev the car and boost is generated that this happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by taint View Post
Can't really say much on your lag issues.

What setup are you running?
im running the same setup jay was running.. 2 KKK turbos (see the previouse pics) which should spool up easily, a TMIC, Internal waste gates, Home made Manual boost controller, No BOV yet (maybe tomorrow i'll install it).

Im running 0.5 bar at the moment.. and not planning on going any higher til i make sure that everything is working 100%. after that we are thinking about going EFI.. not just for boost.. but because its generally better.

To my surprise, today i was told that we have a dyno here i have no idea if its equiped to output HP, but im gonna pay them a visit and see what they got.. if they can read the hp, i will give it a try.


thank you for your input
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  #57  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:42 AM
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So it was a leak after all mmm good then that u found it and as I said it must be close to the cis air sensor since it'sessing the car that bad.
__________________
Jay,
-----------------
-1995 Blue W202 C36 AMG (M) SOLD ;(
-1995 Black W140 S500 (Lady)
-1992 Black W124 E300 (Dima) (Ex-Mosselman
Twin turbo Kit).
-1988 Black W124 300 E 4-Matic.(Nadeen)
-1983 Brown W126 500SEL.(Old Lady)(Sold)
-1981 Gold W123 280CE.(Dareen)(Sold)
http://www.youtube.com/user/jayrasheed
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  #58  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRash View Post
So it was a leak after all mmm good then that u found it and as I said it must be close to the cis air sensor since it'sessing the car that bad.
yup.. you were right all along.. now we are going to take everything off the car (except the turbos and manifolds) and polish the hoses, paint them, get new rubber connections, paint the IC, install the BOV on the IC, prevent any possible leaks , etc etc.
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  #59  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:57 AM
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off topic a bit,, but i want to upgrade the brakes.. do you know of any car that has better brakes that will bolt on to the W126 ?
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  #60  
Old 03-24-2011, 12:54 PM
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i am not sure what can you find in your country but many will fit with some modifications.

the bolt on would be the mb silver arrow brake setup (usually out of SL600)
I think also that the brake setup on the 300E-24V would be a slight upgrade too.

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