103 Turbo Manifold Adaptors! - Page 2

duxthe1 · #16 07-19-2011, 08:13 PM

I've got my heatshield and airbox pieces in, thanks, Jimishadow. Been getting everything else ready for the weekend install.

I've got an OE oil filter adaptor modified for use with the turbo. The stock part has a second port that isn't threaded or drilled to the oil galley. I'm going to use the second port to put the sender in, and use the sender's original port for the turbo feed.

I've fashioned a simple check valve for the breather port in the V/C. It consists of a brad, spring, and washer. The brad has a rounded mushroom head that will cover the small opening inside the port. A spring just lightly holds the brad against the port and a small washer that matches the outside diameter of the port will be tig welded to the port locate the spring and brad. This will let vacuum still pull out crankcase vapors while holding back boost and has the advantage of keeping the stock elbow hose in place. Under boost the vapors will exit the larger breather port and be fed back into the turbo inlet, similar to how the turbodiesels are set up.

Additionally I've ordered in a new flex coupling for the exhaust manifold... The new parts sure are pretty.

BAD300 · #17 07-20-2011, 08:08 PM

I'd sure luv to have those adapters if you were down here but I'm pretty sure they wouldn't work with the GT35R I have. Surely it would hit the chassis rail or come mighty close. I know Joreto re-drilled his manifold but that's certainly not easy.....

duxthe1 · #18 07-20-2011, 09:29 PM

They do take up an inch of real estate. With the tiny turbo I'm using, I'm expecting less than an inch to spare. We'll see soon enough.

I spent a little time this evening with the timing light and a resistance decade. Took a few measurements of timing v/s rpm v/s load in all values of trim resistor. I currenty run with the trim circuit open. My measurements closely tied that with the 750 Ohm trim that is stock. 220 Ohm pulled the most timing at full load in the lower RPMs and will be my starting point. 1300 Ohm only looked to be one degress more at the same measurement but at light load it also appeared to have 1-2 degrees more. I'll solder one into a connector to try as I start to fine tune the thing.

duxthe1 · #19 07-21-2011, 10:23 PM

I pulled out the washer tank this evening and started pre-fitting the turbodiesel airbox into the right fender. It could be easier.... there are a few complications.

First off, I'm going to have to use the 300D coolant reservoir. The 300E reservoir has the level sensor protruding forward, which interferes with the airbox. Additionally the small nipple is inboard where-as the D reservoir has it outboard. I'm not excited about the expense but the existing res has seen better days and could stand to be replaced yesterday.

The 4-matic valve "Test" handle protrudes towards the airbox and interferes. Leaving the valve in "Run" mode and removing the handle clears everything. The outboard / rear airbox mount got cut off the box. It interfered with the 4-matic valve and didn't line up to the existing stud in the fender. The 4-matic feed line is going to work with just a little re-bending of the metal line near the valve. It will wrap around the airbox and likely get it's own hole through the heat shield

The aux pump is likely going to be relocated to the feed line on the upstream side of the heater core. I think it could fit behind the heat shield but it will be easier to just get it off the right fender.

The elbow hose for the turbo feed is going to sit tight against the air pump. It's a big flexible rubber hose so a little contact isn't the end of the world. I'd like to delete the mechanical air pump and swap for the electric air pump but that's a chore for another day. Though the non airpump alternator bracket affords a lot of room where its needed most.

The switchover valves for the EGR and diverter are bolted right next to the circular opening that supplies intake air to the box. They are, of course, in the way. They will be relocated near the battery.

Additionally there is a coolant line that feeds the washer bottle heater. That of course is going to be deleted. Sorry but no pics tonight, the old lady has the digital camera with her.

duxthe1 · #20 07-24-2011, 01:22 AM

The big install is tomorrow but I got started this evening by draining the coolant, pulling the reservoir and relocating the aux pump. Not a big deal to put it on the firewall. I used a body mounted stud that originaly mounts a brake line bracket. Found a new plastic nut in my junk drawer and cinched the aux pump bracket down tight. Cut and trim new hose and...voila! I moved the brake line bracket a few mm and held it with a screw through the firewall. The aux pump isn't re-wired yet, that will come near the end of the install. Mostly wanted to get it off the right fender and out of the way of the airbox install.

I've also got my gratuitus before shot. I was pretty proud of the dual snorkel air cleaner and its a little sad to pull it out. A moment of silence please...

Now on to the turbo, it would have wanted it that way.

duxthe1 · #21 07-25-2011, 12:54 AM

Been a hard, hot day at it but the turbo is in.

There were complications

but there were some things that went really smooth.

The morning started when my help showed up, another 124 wagon owner. I put him on removing the exhaust manifolds while I removed the oil filter adaptor. Well the first allen bolt I tackled stripped and kicked my butt. Given the tight location it didn't want to leave, I ended up breaking the housing around the stripped bolt to get the adaptor off. After removal, install of the new modded piece went well with about 15mm clearance between the oil sender and the body.

The manifolds came off without too much fuss and the egr pipe was cut to be removed and plugged at the manifold. The original downpipes were cut ahead of the trans mount, quite a chore without a lift. The modified air injection pipe was the first part to go back on. After that, the manifold adaptors went on without complication. Next was the turbo fitment. Not exactly enough room.... Doh! The manifold has studs that require even more clearance to mount the turbo than it needs when installed. A little "persuasion" to the inner fender gained some of the necessary clearance to mount the turbo. The passenger side motor mount arm was angled a bit by installing two thick washers between the top bolts and block. That picked up that side of the engine about an inch, which helped the clearance a lot. There was a fair bit of install, check clearance, remove, hammer clearance, install ect. Luckily it's such a tight fit when installed you really dont see any of the "relocated" metal.

With the turbo finally mounted, the oil line went on without a hitch. The drain was a bit of a fight and is noted to be seeping after the shakedown run, but it's minor. The catalyst / downpipe didn't fit at first. It was too high at the rear. It was pulled out and cut about 4/5ths through near the flange with the upper portion left solid. The gap was bent closed and re-welded bringing the rear down for a perfect fit. A temporary 8 inch elbow dump pipe was tacked to the downpipe flange, assuring me that my exhaust guy will have plenty of room for the patch piece to be installed during the day on Mon.

After swapping in a set of HR7DC plugs, the charge pipe went on with little fuss. You'll notice my fancy "band clamps" on all but one of the charge pipe connections. With the "hat" clocked on the airhorn it was marked and two studs were welded to the bump stop bar. Two washers and nuts mount the hat. The EGR pipe connections were a bit of a fight b/c they were welded a little short but the flexible sections gave the needed clearance.

The coolant reservoir went in well but the level sensor broke. The diesel air flow meter isn't proportioned to use the flexible turbo inlet hose. It makes too tight of a turn interfereing with the air pump and belt. I had to cobble together a temporary connection to the turbo. I'll fab a piece to take its place that has the elbow for the 90 degree turn starting a lot sooner. The heat shield went in ok but got a lot of trimming. The hole for the turbo intake hose got the bottom cut out to make a large "notch" instead of a hole. Another two holes for the coolant hose and hydraulic hose and the heat shield was finish installed. A new filter in the airbox and it was almost ready.

The O2 sensor was pulled from underneath and screwed into the downpipe. I made a long extension cable to bring it's signal to the lambda controller in the console. I'll re-do the wiring after I get the hard parts sorted, for now it runs through the door jamb. I've got a fair bit of finish wiring to do. Aux pump power, EGR and diverter, air temp sensor, and CIS boost enrichment controller... still need to be finish wired.

A hose for the blow off valve, a little enrichment at the lambda tower, and the car was ready to test drive. With the 220 ohm ignition trim it seems lethargic off the line until it gets a little rev up. The upshifts under boost were hard, as expected. I brought it back in and put a check valve in the modulator line and put a restrictor in after the check valve that vents to atmosphere. Under vacuum the check valve is open and only a little vacuum is leaked out the restrictor so the modulator still sees most of the vacuum it needs. Under boost the modulator goes to atmospheric pressure through the vented restrictor. It shifts much happier under boost when the modulator is at atmospheric pressure.

The engine comes on boost ok but at about 3 PSI it gets really lethargic until it hits 8PSI where it starts to pull really good again. I think my CIS boost enrichment is coming in too soon causing the stumble. I'll play with it's settings and see if I can't dial it out. Too dark to see the boost gauge taped to the windshield to keep messing with it tonight.

I didn't get the check valve installed in the V/C. Time was pushing and it isn't the most important part. The leak hole is only about 2mm in diameter. I'll get it in when I iron out some other details. The large vent in the V/C isn't connected up yet either. I'll get a makeshiftt filter on it until I can get the turbo inlet pipe sorted.

The BOV vents to atmosphere and it does have a lovely PSSHHHT when letting off the throttle. The exhaust sound has a nice whirr but I doubt it will be very audible once the rest of the exhaust is connected.

Well that about it for now. Another friend was around helping and taking better pictures. After I get them emailed to me I'll sort through them and post any good ones.

duxthe1 · #22 07-26-2011, 12:05 AM

I got the exhaust connected to the downpipe today and spent a little time this evening tuning the engine for boost. As installed the enrichment controller was running really, really rich. It was coming on at about 5" of vacuum. I adjusted it to start coming in at 1 PSI. I set it to pull 50 miliamps at 7 psi and 75 ma at 9 psi. This is with the trim set at full rich. I can tell that it is rich and there is still a flat sopt, but not near as bad as before the adjustments. I've got several near record high temperature days in the forecast. I'm going to start leaning the trim over the next few days and define my hot weather safety limit.

Next chance I get to put in up on a lift I'm gonna deal with the leak at the drain tube. I'm also gonna make an adjustment in the trans to lower the first gear shift point. I'll feel safer romping on it knowing that it will upshift before it runs out of fuel rather than having to lift early.

JayRash · #23 07-26-2011, 04:57 AM

pls tell me ur using an AFR gauge!!!! that flat spot if its abt 3000-4000 rpm that spot is a very lean spot. get a wide band before u do anything else.

duxthe1 · #24 07-26-2011, 09:54 AM

While its not a wideband I monitor O2 voltage and it's up around 900 mv in the flat spot...way rich. It always goes flat at the same PSI regardless of RPM b/c of the switchpoint in the enrichment controller.

JayRash · #25 07-26-2011, 10:44 AM

ok then i take it u know whats going on

duxthe1 · #26 07-26-2011, 01:54 PM

JayRash · #27 07-26-2011, 02:00 PM

not doubting u man

i mean it, since u have a way to know whats going on its gr8. and i also forgot that ur really into this stuff so my bad

duxthe1 · #28 07-26-2011, 08:30 PM

Don't sweat it, Man. I appreciate your input.

duxthe1 · #29 07-28-2011, 09:25 PM

Got the oil leak repaired yesterday. What a mess in the meantime. Turns out there was a raised lip at the edge of the dipstick mounting pad in the pan. My drainpipe flange wasn't able to sit tight against the pan b/c of it. Instead of permatex I cut a cork gasket which more than makes up for the mis-machining of the pan. Not a drop since.

The tight fit of the EGR tube doesn't allow a perfect seal and is leaking exhaust in an annoying "tic tic tic" fashion. I'm going to source another EGR tube and have another go at welding it up to fit. THe previous one was a nightmare. The thin wall stainless tubing is near impossible to weld without burning through. There's a reason I didn't post any close-up pictures of that part

I've joked that it would be easier to weld aluminum foil but it isn't far from the truth.

I didn't get into the trans when I had it on the lift. Third gear is getting soft and there are a few updated parts I'm going to have to install (assuming they aren't already) that may or may not help. Will have to see on that one.

For now I've got the throttle pressure really loose. If I let up in second under boost it will skip third entirely and for now, that's ok. It makes good enough torque at 9 PSI that pulling fourth from a low RPM isn't a big deal.

StuartBJ · #30 07-29-2011, 02:49 PM

Nice...... Nice

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