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  #31  
Old 07-15-2012, 02:19 PM
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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I located a VR distributor which I am going to install for spark control but in the middle of my researching I came across this:

International Mercedes-Benz Club Forum • Thema anzeigen - M110 Motor Discussion

Take a gander at about the 8th post down. Gets the wheels spinning in my head. The stumbling block to my going to the Ford EDIS system already has been the problem of the trigger wheel. The M110 has a humongous balancer on the crank which would require a 10 and 1/2" trigger wheel to clear it. Even having the trigger wheel is problematic because of the lack of clearance between the pulleys and the misc. attachments on the engine block. I had played with the idea he has done but I wasn't sure what it would do to the balance of the dampener.

I've got a spare M110 and after I get the spark going using the VR distributor I think I'll start working on the trigger/dampener idea.

I know one guy has converted his SL already but if you'll look at his set-up you'll notice he doesn't have A/C. If you have the A/C pulley it makes it much more difficult as the additional belt plus the added 2" gives you even less space to work with.

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  #32  
Old 07-15-2012, 04:09 PM
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in my friends m104 3.2l we made something like this:






in my m104 3.0 24v i have the same thing... maybe You can make something similar to that
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  #33  
Old 07-15-2012, 04:40 PM
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On the M110 the water pump is right on top of the balancer so I can't install a gear on the rear of the balancer larger than about 10.25" which is only 1/8" larger than the balancer itself. I don't think this will have teeth deep enough to trigger the sensor at higher r.p.m.s.

I'd have to have the balancer turned on a lathe to fit the wheel anyway.

Just brainstorming. I've still got to fit the VR distributor and go to spark control first.

Here's the pic, just to save you guys from having to scroll down through the other thread.

Megasquirt on my M110-dsc_0146.sized.jpg
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  #34  
Old 07-20-2012, 02:41 PM
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Mike D.:
At the end of Pg.2 (Dec. 2011) you were commenting on observed O2 sensor voltage. There are, I think, two factors that will stand in the way of leaning the overall mixture much more than you have already; an intake manifold that has runners of greatly varying length, and valve timing that features rather close lobe centers (105-107 deg.). The valve timing matter can be resolved by retarding the intake opening point and advancing the exhaust closing point to achieve a separation of 112-114 deg. (Offset cam keys are available from Mother Benz). The intake manifold, however, you are stuck with. It is the very problem of mixture varience caused by differences in runner length that brought us to port injection. Were you to lean the mixture to the point that cyls. 3&4 were running at .5-.6 V, the mixture at 1&6 would likely be dangerously lean. Although you are able to more closely control the mixture PREPARATION with TBI than with a carb, you can, unfortunately, do nothing about the DISTRIBUTION of the mixture, as that is a function of the manifold design
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  #35  
Old 08-02-2012, 01:28 PM
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Yup, I'm already brainstorming the installation of port injectors on the car. I've got a spare M110 intake manifold just crying out for abuse. MSIII being able to control injectors sequentially is also giving me ideas.

Ideally I'd prefer to do the MS conversion on an injected M110 but we do what we can with what we've got. The steps are also a good learning tool for anyone considering doing the conversion and gives them an option on how far they can go.

I had figured the O2 sensor reading to be incomplete distribution. I dropped the Squirts to 3 per cycle and greatly improved the O2 readings.

It'll idle at 14.7 but you can feel it surge. I dropped the idle range to 13.4 and it smooths out. So I'm running it a tad rich at idle but the maps go back to controlled settings as soon as I get off idle (at about 950 RPM's).

The biggest change I've found is to not even mess with using VE Analyse Live but to just datalog the car, view the datalog, have the log analyzed and then either accept or reject the recommended changes. So much nicer to be either wrong or right as opposed to the constant switching of cells while driving. Datalogging also doesn't require the EGO correction to be on or off and it compensates for acceleration enrichment so you don't have to factor it in.

VE A. Live probably works fine with a wide band sensor set-up but I don't think the narrow band sensor I am using is giving it enough data soon enough for it to work.
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  #36  
Old 10-06-2012, 09:12 AM
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17.8+ MPG on the last tank I ran through the car. 87 octane RUG on non-oxygenated fuel (from Oct. 1st to Apr. 1st all Az. fuels are "oxygenated" by mandate to cut down on winter emissions). In-town stop and go traffic, no A.C. use, electric cooling fan.

Not exactly a "mileage-master" but head and shoulders above the 13's I was getting on my various carburetor set-ups. I believe this is the peak I am going to see using the TBI and conventional ignition.

My next step is going to be using the Ford EDIS system for ignition control if other stuff will quit getting in the way. I don't see the ignition giving me much more gains in mileage but I might pick up some mid-range performance.

Let's see, about $700 invested in the fuel injection system, divided by $4 a gal of fuel, that's 175 gallons. So, if I'm saving 4 miles a gallon then I only need to drive a little under 10,000 miles to reap the savings. Piece of cake!

The real benefit is having a solid performance from my car and having the ability to upgrade the various components. Plus being able to tinker with the set-up. Can't get the gear-head out of the boy!
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  #37  
Old 10-09-2012, 01:10 PM
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Not bad at all, good work!!!

If you get around to trying the individual injectors with crank-fire ignition working with MSIII's individual firing of injectors could get you even more. It'll be like a fancy new car's fuel injection system.

But, as-is, that's a good improvement. How's the driveability?
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  #38  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:12 AM
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It's a completely different car from when it was carb'ed.

It has smooth response through-out the RPM range. The acceleration is a bit different than with the carb. as when you "punch it" you don't get the quick boost the acceleration pump gives you but you get a steady "pull" which is more efficient and actually gets you to speed faster. Mid-range response is immediate and starting is 2-3 turns maximum. I don't how it would be starting in cold weather and I don't intend to find out. I'll let you guys in the Northern climes have that weather test.

It does have an occasional "burp". It seems to happen when the car goes from "warm up enrichment" mode to standard. One quick "hiccup" and then it's done. I'm pretty sure it's just a setting change but so far it hasn't annoyed me enough to tweak it.
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  #39  
Old 10-10-2012, 08:31 AM
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On your cold start cranking setting, set anything below ~40f to maximum pulse width. I think thats 25ms with high impedence injectors. Set cranking RPM to 250-350, no more. It'll start instantly at any temp no matter how cold.
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  #40  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:57 AM
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Ummm, yeah, this is Tucson. ANYTHING below 40 F we panic! Now 40 C, that's a different story.

I'll give those settings a try. Starting is never a problem. The "hiccup" I get is when the ECU drops out of "WUE" or "ASE" into normal mode. It gives me a quick burp just at the threshold when it cycles enrichment on/off and then smooths out. No problem after this point. I'm guessing the settings are the cause because when I have the tuning software running this is when it occurs. As I say, it's not a problem which has been enough of an annoyance to really dig down and correct. It doesn't occur all the time, maybe once out of every 50 times on a "cold" start (where the car has sat for more than 3 hours but less than 8) so it's hard to track precisely.

A thousand times better than when I was dealing with the Solex.

Did you take down your page over at Megasquirt? The link no longer works.
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  #41  
Old 10-11-2012, 09:53 AM
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No I didn't take it down. Its just not there anymore I guess. I have the same build outlined here.
My 93 2.3 quick and dirty Megasquirt conversion - 190 Revolution

And the M103 MS2 build
http://190rev.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38122&highlight=megasquirt
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  #42  
Old 12-06-2012, 12:17 AM
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Heres another 110 conversion I found to be very informative.
280SL "K-Jet and Ignition conversion to Megasquirt" write up - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
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  #43  
Old 05-05-2015, 01:13 PM
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Well, the beast finally let me down. Been 3 and 1/2 years with no problem and out of the blue it began running like doo-doo.

Did the usual checks on it, fuel filter, line clamps, checked the strainer, etc.
Put a pressure gauge on it and found out it was operating at about 3.5 PSI. That ain't enough to make the mojo flow! Used a set of pliers to restrict the flow and the idle picked up to where it's supposed to be and the car runs as it formerly did.

Rebuilt the stock GM TBI regulator and still don't have enough pressure to operate the car properly. Hard to believe that a used, 25 year old part I pulled from a junkyard could be worn out. I'm sure the seat inside the housing has worn away thanks to the wonderful ethanol blend we get here.

Ordered an adjustable in-line regulator to take the hokey stock unit's place. Just waiting on delivery for installation to get back on the road.

I also located a TBI unit from a S-10 with the 2.8L. Ordered that as well and will swap over from the 4.3L unit I have now. The only difference between the two is the 2.8L has 13/16'" venturi and the 4.3L has 7/8's. Same injectors, regulators, etc. No real reason to do it but curious as to what, if any, effect it might have on engine vacuum.
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Last edited by Mike D; 05-05-2015 at 01:31 PM.
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  #44  
Old 06-23-2015, 04:57 PM
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Don't know exactly what I did but it's fixed.

Installed the in-line regulator and had the exact same symptoms. WTF? Took a gander at the pressure tester gauge I have been using and noticed it was only showing 4PSI event though the inline gauge was showing 15PSI. Pulled apart the tester and found shreds of Teflon tape in the orifice. Wonder how long they've been in there and how did they get there? Somewhere down the line I must have had a leak and changed hoses. Either that or the lining on the hose broke down. Good possibility considering the oxygenated fuel we get here.

Back to the drawing board. Reworked ALL the grounds, connections and power feeds for the third time. Even pulled the relay board and touched up all the solder points. No dice, same problem.

Changed the Hot-Spark ignition for a Pertronix, made new plug wires (Pertronix specifically states NOT to use solid core wires), new spark plugs, new distributor cap and rotor. No difference.

Re-loaded the tuning settings but went to 100% map and disabled the EGO control. Runs like a top again. No sputter or miss. It's a little harder to start but I'm pretty sure it is in the After Start Enrichment settings which I had piddled with.

Beats the crap out of me what I did. For now I'm running it in open loop with the last known "good" settings. One of there days I'll hook it back up to the laptop and go through the settings to find out exactly where the problem is. I've driven for a couple of thousand miles since. I'm going to go with the mechanic's golden rule, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

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