To all you track junkies out there, what oil do you use? I've always run Mobil 1, but with the new formulation being less than fully synthetic I think I'm gonna switch, at least on my 500E which sees limited track use.

Any/all comments welcomed, and Thanks in advance

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

On a 500E, I would (if it were me) run the best of the best. Redline or Amsoil.

No argument here, the base stock of both are 100% SYNTHETIC, at least, the kind of synthetic we expect.

although not an avid track rat as yourself Mike-

In SF, CA climate:

I'm using dino Penzoil Long Life 15W-40 in my '94 E500 (38k) and doing oil and filter changes at 1500 miles. At this 1500 mile point the oil viewed on the dip stick is dark tan/ when its evacuated in bulk it looks black. This route provides cheap insurance for me since I find it next to impossible not to spurt around in the car at times @ WOT. The service stamps indicate that this weight has been used for the car's entire life (motor is smooth and quiet).

I've been using Castrol 20W-50 dino for the past 100k miles on the '88 325is. Motor is strong at 145k and never been cracked open w/ no oil on the plugs. I tracked this car previously and to this day has no fluid leaks on the car (2500 mile interval changes).

Also using Castrol 20W-50 in the '94 E320 Coupe (95k) with 2500-3000 mile interval changes. Motor is very strong & quiet and doesn't lose even a drop of oil between changes- no leaks anywhere on the car.

I'm using Chevron Supreme 10W-40 in my '88 Celica GT 245k miles (original owner & motor never cracked open) and changing at 2500 mile intervals. Using the same oil in the '97 Toyota T100 SR5 Pickup (47k) and doing 3000mi interval changes.

-fad

When I ran my 300TE once on Redline 10W40, it seemed to spring some leaks that went away when I went back to Mobil 1. Any thoughts on this characteristic...does the pure synthetic stuff really leak even more?

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

Michael,

I'm running the redline 10-40 with no leaks. I started when I bought the car at 79K. I also use it in my other cars with no problems. The PO used dino 10-45.
What I did notice last time under the car though is my PS pump is leaking. I was reading on here that there is a short hose that connects the res. to the pump and that they tend to leak. Any input here? I plan on taking a look when I get some time.

Randy

Randall-there's a hose directly under the P/S reservoir that you likely need to tighten the claps on. There's also a line that goes into the side of that same reservoir that is known to rupture-I strongly suggest you replace it (it's probably $3 worth of cloth-covered fuel line)

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

I have used Mobil Delvac 1 15-40; and Royal Purple 50wt. Since I'm always changing the oil & filter (every 3.5K miles), I'm going back to Mobil 1 15-50.

Both are pure synthetic. I'm contemplating using SWEPCO for the engine oil.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Neil,

Why synthetic Diesel oil? And why Swepco vs. Royal Purple, Amsoil & Red Line?

Thanks in advance

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

Michael:

Synthetic diesel oil is not the correct characterization for these SJ/CH-4 rated oils. These are the best oils that can be used in either gas or diesel. The universal oils are simply the best in terms of base stocks, additive packages, stability, and service life.

They carry both ratings for gas and diesel while most of the "gas" oils only have the SJ/SL rating or with a CF (old diesel) rating.

If I were in a warmer climate, I would have been using the Chevron Delo 400 15-W40 oil year round in all my cars. Its specs are amazing. Mobile Delvac 1300 Super 15-W40 used be as good as Chevron Delo 400 but now it has higher pour point and higher pumping viscosity.

The Mobil Delvac 1 has one of the best detergents, stability, and suspension of contaminents in the business. It's also made from one of the best base stocks available. Unfortunately, it's SUPER EXPENSIVE.

Royal Purple is also noted for it's industrial and racing applications, and it's QC and cleanliness is unequalled. It too is a pure synthetic and made from excellent base stocks. I also like the fact that a gallon of Royal Purple Long-Rider synthetic from a truck stop is about $9/gallon vs. Delvac 1's $20+/gallon. Semi-owners like it because it in an economical synthetic that has proven itself on $100K+ semi's.

Diesel combustion IMHO is more stressing to the engine oil, esp. due to the heavy blow-by and contaminents.

SWEPCO has intrigued me because although not a synthetic, they have a good following with some PORSCHE clubs, and their non-synthetic base-stocks is THE BEST of the non-synthetics.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Bo- I totally forgot about the Delvac 1300 Super, and Delo 400. They are absolutely fantastic for regular gasoline engine use, and my local PepBoys/Autozone usually has them for around $5/gallon! I'm glad you reminded me of them. When did the specs for Delac 1300 Super change?

Come to think of it, I have a 5-gallon pail of Delvac 1300 Super in a corner somewhere. Used this on our 1986 VW Golf with 185K miles, original EVERYTHING, and she doesn't leak or burn oil. Oil & filter changed every 2.5K/miles since she's a little 4-cyclinder that we rev-hard.

However, since Michael is asking about racing conditions, I still think one of the diesel-rated synthetics are one of the best.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Bo & Neil,

Thanks for chiming in, and Bo pardon my transgression; I Know Not What I Say. I amaze even myself with my relative lack of knowledge in this area

So, is the Delvac 1 superior to Mobil 1 in a gas engine, from a lubricity/protection standpoint? Is it up to the standards of the aforementioned true synthetics? Which oil will ultimately allow the engine to produce the most power (Neil I'm sure wants to know-lunatic. Ahem ) Please pardon my dearth of knowledge, but I suppose that's why I started this thread.
BTW, Neil, I get it at about $17 US a gallon-about the same as Mobil 1. Big Truck distributor nearby. I use it in my '92 300D.

I currently run 15W50 Mobil 1 in my 500E, and want the absolute best protection I can get against the rigors of heat and the fun had on a track day

So, I guess votes are in line-is Red Line or another true synthetic worth the extra $$ over Delvac 1? And is Delvac 1 too thin @ 5W40?

Thanks again, everyone!

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

Neil:

<<
When did the specs for Delac 1300 Super change?
>>

Mobile changed the Delvac 1300 formulation about a few months ago and here is a post of mine about it in a different thread:

oil additives

Basically they are using Group II with Group I now. Chevron Delo 400 is still all Group II.


Michael:

<<
So, is the Delvac 1 superior to Mobil 1 in a gas engine, from a lubricity/protection standpoint?
>>
It is but it is probably an overkill in a gas engine. Protection wise, The Delvac 1 will last longer due to its strong additive package (higher TBN). A diesel engine is a torque chamber compared to a gas engine and the oil that is rated for diesel is generally better.

<<
Is it up to the standards of the aforementioned true synthetics?
>>
Delvac 1 uses 100% true synthetic base stock like Red line and Amsoil. Like all true synthetic oil, the additive package is dissolved in dino oil. Mobile 1, however, is debatable after its formulation change to the so called "tri-synthetic". Basically the ruling is that synthetic does not have to be man made. It could be super refined dino as long as it is the result of some complicated process.

Is 5W40 Delvac 1 a good choice for as hot as an M119 motor gets when being flogged repeatedly?

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

<<
I get it at about $17 US a gallon-about the same as Mobil 1.
>>
That is a terrific price and I hope I can get it for that price.

<<
And is Delvac 1 too thin @ 5W40?
>>
I do not think so. Now MB requires Mobile 1 0W-40 in all new cars and recommend it in older cars. To me, Mobile Delvac 1 5W-40 is still better than Mobile 1 0W-40. It is still a 40 weight oil when hot.

<<
Royal Purple Long-Rider synthetic from a truck stop is about $9/gallon
>>
Again, I wish I can get it for that price.

Now let me tell you a personally story about Royal Purple oil.

First of all, it is an excellent oil. In our college we have a heavy equipment department and my neighbor teaches there. He has two diesel trucks (Chevy) and has access to his lab for oil analysis. At one time he ran a batch of Royal Purple 15W-40 oil for 26,000 miles. Yes, 26,000 miles with analysis every 5,000 miles. The oil was still good at 25,000 miles (viscosity, soot, contaminants, etc) but he chickened out and changed it.

We are all too conservative RE oil changes. I think he could have gone 26,000 miles with either Chevron Delo 400 15-W40 or Delvac 15W-40. Both oils are called the million mile oils.

The only problem with Royal Purple is the use of the word synthetic. I have talked to a re-seller here and he will not say that the Royal Purple uses a synthetic base stock. Many oil experts believe it is a synthetic blend oil (except a race oil they sell) with an excellent additive package.