Well, I was measuring the original diff and rear cover and was noticing that he bolt spread on the original is the same as the 215mm diff. Just that the 215 bolts are off to one side in relation. It is a shame it could be bolt it if everything was just moved a little. I am wondering if the standard subframe would be easier with a different rear cover.
Anyways, I have a CLK BS axle on its way to compare. I talked to the DSS about axles and it seems that I am looking at around 6-700 per axle for basically indestructible axles. I stopped by the machine shop yesterday about the wheel flanges and it looks like around 250.00 for the flanges. 1st one being about 3/4 of that. That does not include the flanges themselves. Then a driveshaft when it is all done. I think this might come in just over 3k for everything then a new quaife unit. So 4k total. About what these things cost.
Should have a driveline that can handle doing a wheel stand though. So a stall converter or Wet clutch next.

I've never seen or heard of these things before, very cool. I think these would have saved a buddy of mine's car had he had 'em! The main thing is, who sells these?

The thing is about the image shown above is that it does not strengthen anything. In fact all it does is create multiple shear points on the bolts and push the driveshaft further off the back of the alignment pin in the diff and the transmission. Just keep good flex joints on the car if you are running normal power levels. What I am doing is about a lot more than the flex joint. Say you successfully upgrade the flex joint to handle what ever you through at it then you just twist a driveshaft in half. Mostly I am upgrading the rear end and half axles. If you just want to do the driveshaft a custom one by itself is around 6-800 dollars. Problem solved. I just did not want to do it twice.

Looking like the standard subframe from the 6 cylinder cars is going to work out better. Other than moving the mounting back in the subframe the one rear mount aligns perfect. I will have to add another mount for the driver's side but with two points bolted in this should be easy. I will take some pictures.

I ordered and received a CLK63 BS rear wheel flange. I was going to have some others modified but could not find a good donor. Drilling and broaching the originals was very expensive although not a lot more than the BS ones. The good news is that it is a direct replacement for the w124 flange into the bearing and offsets are the same etc. Just 27 spline. So that also means that the BS axles should work or at least all the comparable parts. I have not gotten an axle length measurement although I am working on getting a set. C63 axles may work also. The lenth is right but the stub into the flange is a little different.
Also I have the differential mounted in the standard w124 subframe instead of the v8 one. Alignment on the one mount is perfect just a little clearance needed to push the diff back a little. Will end up make a new mount once the other rear one is done.
You could probably find a rear cover that works if you tried hard enough. Or just modify the rear cover to fit the subframe. Just some time to make new mounts not very much money so I will work with what I have got.
I will post some picks once I have the diff mounts done.

few pics new dash in my w123 wagon, little unrelated. You can see the BS flange and the stock w124 flange. and the differential mounts. I have decided I am going to box in the subframe after welding in the mounts.

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I like the look of this drive disc, if the busings fail the drive shaft will still stay attached. I'm liking the urethane portion less as it will be pretty stiff and cause binding.

BMW drive disc, aluminum center, poly bushings
revshift ( dot ) com/shop/bmw/e30/flex-disc-couplers.php

There are complete disc elimination drive shafts made for Dodge so it would be possible to have one made for Mercedes.

driveshaftshop ( dot ) com

What urethane portion are you talking about? I will have a DSS driveshaft in this car along with the axles.

Yes, it can be done.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/performance-paddock/255889-driveshaft-yokes.html

More pics of it.:

The blue bushings

" BMW drive disc, aluminum center, poly bushings
revshift ( dot ) com/shop/bmw/e30/flex-disc-couplers.php "

Rubber drive discs allow for some front / back motion as the car flexes , engine / rear diff moves. Also any angular miss alignment would be transmitted to the flanges.

If the poly was softish in the aluminum / poly drive discs and moved in the holes I'd be OK with that.

The Caddy CTS has rubber drive discs as well.

well i have actually gotten a c63 half axle and with a little modification to the spindle it looks like it will work. I decided that dropping almost 2k on axles right now was not going to work. I got this one for 175 delivered. So I need to get another. And I will have the rear end done. Total cost so far assuming I get another axle for the same price is around 1100.00. I am still going to look into w203 spindles for a couple of different reasons. Main one is doing an undermount sway bar from the 203 chassis. This will just leave a custom driveshaft. I can upgrade axles some day if I want or need to but I think that there is a very low likely hood that I will ever have an issue with these.

pardon me aren the drivetrains stout enough for the S320 turbo.I want 400 rwhp. Want do I need?

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Yes and no. If you are running turbos and no stall and no slicks then yes. If you put some stall in and have traction and hit it hard then no. I bend the flex discs in mine with stock stall in my converter. I have to replace them pretty often. If I put say around 2800 rpm stall in I would snap either the driveline or half axles or both.

To add to the diff / axle thread.

I got a hold of a 2006 Ford Explorer / Mercury Mountaineer IRS 8.8 aluminum differential + axles + hubs. Why Ford? Easy access to limited slip diff, many ratios, likely stronger than the MB offerings. Also there is easy access to aftermarket axles. With a quick check I've found no show stoppers so far.

The Driveshaft Shop | Chrysler - Domestic Axles
maybe source for ford 8.8 stub axles ( 06-10 charger srt 8 / 300c srt 8 / challenger srt 8

paramountperformanceproducts .c o m

And a 8.8 conversion exists for MB based Chrysler projects so I'd expect them to be able to make MB parts.

Comparing it to a 93 500 SEL diff ( 210 reinforced 1.3L case ) by putting them side by side with axle centerlines lined up:

Rear mounting
500 square 4 bolt pattern
Ford 2 wings like a R129 SL , about 1/2" closer to axle centerline

Front mounting
500 one mounting hole on right
Ford two mounting holes with insulators ( supposedly pre 06 units had one hole ) Holes are about 1" farther forward than the 500.

Input flange
500 4 wings with drive shaft centering journal, uses rubber joint
Ford round flange, drive shaft yoke bolts on, has universal joints, about 1/2" shorter than 500.

Axle flanges
500 bolt on 6 ball CV joints, flanges stay on diff
Ford slide in tripod cv joints, overall width with CV's removed same as 500 with flanges installed.

Axles
500 left and right axles are same width, 2 ABS sensors on diff
Ford Left is about 1" shorter , length on left is still longer than 500, ABS sensors on outer CVs

Hubs
500 uses 5 x 112mm pattern with screw in bolts
Ford 5 x 114.3 ( 4.5" ) pattern with studs, spline is larger than 500, bearing hub is smaller than 500. overall height is 1/4" less than 500

The Mercedes 215mm and related parts like I am doing are more than enough for any power anyone is going to make in one of these and I am going to be less than 2,000 plus some fab work to have it in the car. With 3.27 and 3.55 gears to chose from if I decide I do not like the 3.06 gears. Which I do right now. Going with the 8.8 and axles and etc. You are going to be at least twice that amount of money.