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#1
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Driveline upgrades
Well I thought this might be a good thread for those that are pushing the envelope. I know a guy with a clk55 that breaks half axles pretty regularly when he launches hard. It is supercharged of course. The axles break at the wheel flange. They are exactly the same as ours except the tone ring for the speed sensor. Also our driveshafts are weaker due to the smaller flex discs at minimum. This is my biggest concern because driveshafts can kill you.
I got a 215mm diff from a srt8 and started looking installing that because I did not want to get custom driveshafts and half axles and then have to replace them because I broke my diff and need to upgrade. The diff only cost me 250.00. So the first issue is mounting it in the subframe. At worst a custom rear cover may be required. I am thinking that a little grinding and welding a new mount location will be all that it requires. Depends on how clean you want everything. Next is the driveshaft. The good news is that the length of the driveshaft should not have to change. I measured from the front bolt location on the differential to the flange face were the flex disc bolts to and it is withing a mm or two at the most. The half axles are the hardest. One of the problems is that companies like Driveshaft shop do not like how small the shaft into the wheel hub is. So increasing the size is the next challenge. I talked to a couple companies about broaching the hubs to larger 27 splines and it is not to bad but I have been collecting flanges to compare. I found the w204 flange is pretty close in off set and a simple weld to build up and then turning down for off set and bearing diameter will be required. This also allows using the larger 14mm lug bolts. My machine shop can do this much cheaper than sending them out to be broached. About half cost. From 120.00 + at Mark Williams rear ends per set to about 60.00-80.00. Now the half shafts. You can go full custom for about 2,000.00. Never going to break them. But the guy I know with the clk found that the e36 half axles are darn close to ours with bigger splines. Same bolt pattern at the differential. And DSS for a 1,000 will upgrade them only changing the shaft and the outer and inner joints are strong enough. I am also looking into this and other options to swap the outer cv joint only on my axles. But then I will probably break the inner flange in the differential. Thus why go to the 215mm diff for the larger flange in the diff. I will fill in data as I find it. |
#2
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I hope I'm not launching hard,I raise rpms to 2000k then let go of brake and mash to the floor I spray at 3000rpm to 6,000 rpms.
Tomorrow is our drag race,free to race if you bring a Taco Bell reciept.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#3
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Quote:
Saw your post and remembered this device to help control the driveshaft in the event of flex-disc failure at speed: Good luck!
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Looking for Early 108 windshield surround wood in decent-to-good condition. |
#4
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I used this guy to shorten and change my axles to 4340 axles. So fa so good I am worried about the hub spline as that is stock 560SL. No problems yet but haven't got any traction yet. Will be trying out MT drag radials this summer.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/index.php
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To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
#5
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Quote:
__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
#6
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Roncallo,
I will take some snap shots when I have a chance. Really the difference is the inner diameter is larger for a larger half axle and the outer diameter is larger for a larger bore bearing race. The offset difference is really small and a simple weld bead run around the flange where it seats to the bearing to be turned back down to the proper offset will be fine. |
#7
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So back on this a little. I am going to pick up another rear subframe from a v8 car. I have the srt-8 differential and I have a rear cover from a c63 that should line up enough to the v8 subframe mounts to make some custom ones. I went to look at and pick up the e36 m3 axle yesterday and it was even larger. Like 30-32 spline. So I am looking through the stacks of axles and grab a w140 s500 axle. 27 spline outer and the exact same length as the stock w124 axle. This would be a perfect bolt in for the differential I have now. Will need shorter shafts for the srt-8 one. The axle shaft is much larger also.
So, I think I am going to get this all together over the winter and then drop in a quaife and a new set of gears. I think I might go for the 3.55 gears. Got a lot of work to get there though. |
#8
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this is what we have all been waiting for, very well done, keep us informed.
is the diff from a chrysler crossfire?
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ce 320 amg widebody tiwn turbo Mutty 'der nail' soon to be a six speed nail "some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer" if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading). Dont forget to polish it often |
#9
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No it is the 215 diff from a srt-8 charger or challenger, 300c. It is basically the same as a Mercedes diff from a w209 w204 large diff. c63 c55, etc. They are just a lot cheaper to get and this one has 3.06 gears in it already. I need the inside flanges for the differential. But I will probably get these when I get the axles customized. I am then going to get a one piece driveshaft when I put this all in. CV joint in the front and rear. I have not decided if I am going to get carbon fiber or chrome moly.
The cool thing is it looks like you could use the w140 axles with the standard w129 case that is in the car stock. Just have your flanges drilled and broached for the larger stubs. I just want more options when I am done and not to do it twice. And I know nothing will break ever. |
#10
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So, I have a DSS stub for the differential. Will be bolting together when I can. Stubs are 250.00 a piece but can be applied the axles in the future. Next step will be getting the flanges machined for the wheel side. I might pick up some c63 axles if I can get them for the right price. After the rear end is done will order a driveshaft. Thinking chrome-moly.
Or carbon one piece shaft. Fairly big price difference but will have to see the funds at that time. Still have to do injectors and seats and a few other items. |
#11
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I'll offer a data point on drive discs.
Chrysler 300 ( 2007? ) with NAG 1. The trans end drive disc is # 514 411 01 15 . It has 6 bolts on a 110 MM circle , 55 mm if you measure center to center between the next hole. ( disc not installed) 97 SL320 ( Fits many 93 / 03 6 cyl cars ) 124 411 02 15 6 bolts , I don't have a bolt circle but it measures 50 mm center to center between the next hole. ( Disc installed ) |
#12
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So, are there any upgraded options for the drive shaft, rather than the axles?
I thought it opportune timing to see this thread, as I just got done pulling a shattered drive shaft out of my 500 SEC, where it had torn in half just ahead of the carrier bearing. IMG_20120903_205501 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! I'm looking for options, before sending my spare parts drive shaft out to be rebuilt ~$400 with the replaceable center u-joint. For that matter, was there an updated drive shaft in the 500-560 SEC's at some point? I pulled two from different cars in the wrecking yards, and one has a reduced diameter near the carrier bearing, while the other is straight through to the splined section.
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#13
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Wow, I have never heard of this on a stock car before. I would just get a replacement but if you want you can have a custom one made. I am going to have the same company, DSS do a driveshaft for me also.
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#14
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"" I pulled two from different cars in the wrecking yards, and one has a reduced diameter near the carrier bearing, while the other is straight through to the splined section. ""
Some of this might be related to cars having a collapsible drive shaft. ( For then the engine gets pushed back in a crash ) |
#15
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little progress on the 215mm differential install. I am thinking of making some new mounts and welding on a new plate to the rear of the subframe. Not sure yet. I am going to drop off a wheel flange to get machined in the next couple of weeks also. And after that order axles.
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