W123 track car, I need stiffer springs, info needed, HELP!!! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JUNAID786 · #16 11-13-2012, 03:26 AM

The flex is not in the strut mounts, its in the sheet metal between the strut mounts. That grey stuff in the pic located between the back seats and the fuel tank.Sorry. Not struts, shocks. The shock is encased in the spring at the rear. I hear wat you saying about the semi trailing arm being designed to equalise forces but your picture above and plenty of 123 owners frustration proves that the body leans. The swing arm and sway bar keep the chassis on the road but that big heavy body is all over the place. In extreme cornering this contributes to loss in negative camber. I'm sure if you tried it, you would be very happy with the result. Now, when I corner, the body leans a tiny bit then flattens out immediately without any jerking or jarring. My wife even notices the difference. She drives it to the shops.Its easier to steer now and doesn't feel like its going to fly off the road when taking a turn

fha772 · #17 11-13-2012, 03:53 AM

Thanks for that explanation, I'll certainly give it a try.

I'm heading over to a spring place tomorrow to discuss having some custom springs made.
We'll see how much they are...

JUNAID786 · #18 11-13-2012, 08:37 AM

You know,you made me think. I may have just joined the spring towers. Maybe I should do another bar higher up above where the shock mounts for some more stiffness.

oldsinner111 · #19 11-13-2012, 08:41 AM

Cheaper I've seen racing springs on a website for $45. They offer various sizes.You have to measure your old ones into inches

odl21 · #20 01-21-2013, 10:43 PM

if you're still interested, there are police springs available but its really the shocks that help. bilstein will make custom valving for your requirements. together they completely remove body roll without stiffening too much. PM me for details.

also look at the stock engine mounts. you can screw in land rover mounts instead in 5 minutes and it absolutely transforms the handling. the stock mounts allow the engine to move all over the place and destroy the handling going into a corner if your throttle response is quick.

fha772 · #21 01-22-2013, 02:56 PM

Thanks for that information, I've sent you a PM.

Are these the engine mounts you mean?

If so, I've got a bunch of them somewhere, I might even have some poly ones...

odl21 · #22 01-22-2013, 03:36 PM

Those are they. A couple of quid each. No need for poly ones.

yzn · #23 01-24-2013, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by odl21

the stock mounts allow the engine to move all over the place and destroy the handling going into a corner if your throttle response is quick.

true , also in w123 chassis the engine set really high in the engine bay so when it move it could effect handling

fha772 · #24 01-24-2013, 05:29 PM

I've just had a dig about in the shed and I've got about a dozen of the round petrol Land Rover mounts, and I've got a pair of the heavier duty square diesel Land Rover mounts.
Hopefully, the diesel ones will fit, these are a lot harder than the petrol ones, so they should hold the engine better.

Selwyn · #25 03-27-2013, 10:46 AM

Hi my name is Selwyn. mt son and I successfully campaign 2 w123's in historic racing in SA. I can help with the springs but need to know what you need. Attached is a recent pic of my car. Last year won the overall endurance race championship. It is probably the most rewarding race car I have ever owned. Since introducing it to the circuits in 2008, 15 others have followed.

fha772 · #26 03-27-2013, 01:39 PM

Hi Selwyn,

My car is as stripped out as your race car, I only use it as a track car, I'm just looking for a nice firm low ride, to help it handle as well as it can.

Have you got any other advice on making this car handle well?

Is your car a 280E that's silver with a black bonnet?

Cheers Frank.

(If you follow the PPCMAG link in my signature, it will take you to my build diary.)

97 SL320 · #27 03-27-2013, 10:25 PM

For springs I'd use aftermarket 2 1/2" ID units that are available in various rates and lengths. Get some jack bolts to adjust ride height rather than trying to cut springs / use spacers. Also, weld a 2" long piece of tubing to the jack bolt plate / spring seat, this keeps the spring from coming loose when the suspension droops.

Here are some examples.

AFCO Racing: Shocks, Springs, Cooling, Brakes

Welcome to Hyperco | High Performance Coil Springs & Suspension Components

fha772 · #28 03-28-2013, 05:34 AM

To be honest, if I'm going to all the effort of making the 2.5" coils fit, I may as well convert to coilovers, which I will do in the future if the normal set up won't work well enough.

I'm just seeing what I can do with the original suspension.

97 SL320 · #29 03-28-2013, 07:31 PM

Another solution is to use 5" or 5 1/2" ID " "stock car" springs and "hidden" adjusters. If your lower spring seat is shaped properly, no modifications are needed.

Coil overs are not always the solution on a non strut car as stock shock mounting points are not strong enough. Even with a strut car, coil overs can lead to tire clearance / too short a spring issues.

Unless you can buy off the shelf "sport" springs, trying to juggle stock springs by cutting to length ( and the attendant rise in spring rate ) is a losing battle. Going with universal aftermarket springs and adjusters allows you to swap and trade springs with others until you find the proper rate.