Hello, I called in today to order some Lubro Moly and was advised to post these questions directly to the moderator of this board first. So, Hello M.B.Doc, here I am.

I am looking for advice on which Lubro Moly products I would benefit from for a ‘92 300TE and also in an ‘85 VW Rabbit GTI engine.

For Oil: I was advised by the Lubro Moly Rep to use the Lubro Moly MOS2 Anti-Friction - 10W-40 oil in both cars. He felt this oil is better than the newer Voll Synthese (sp?) for high milers like mine.

For Fuel Additives: To occasionally use Ventil Sauber and Jectron. He said these two additives can be used together but I was thinking Jectron first, then the Ventil.

For Oil additives: I plan to use the long term sludge remover ‘Lubro Moly Oil Sludge Remover Ol Schlamm- Spulung” from the beginning of the oil change and then the 10 minute ‘right before you empty’ the oil “Lubro Moly Motor Clean”. Finally using the long term sludge clear for at least one more shot. With the oil cleaners I hope to avoid the clogged oil tubes I read about in older Benzes.

I have some valve or lifter noise intermittently first thing in the morning. Stops as soon as the oil pressure is up. I hope the oil and cleaners will help this. I also have some tiny oil leaks in the Benz -- Mobil1 has made them smaller. I am hoping they get better and will try the oil additive if they do not, BUT, I want to use the cleaner and try to get the valves moving properly first.

Is there anything else I should try? I am hoping you confirm or disconfirm what I plan to try.

Thanks in advance!!

David

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David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

Of course on high mileage engines that HAVEN't been well maintained switching to synthetic oil can cause the engine to leak & even start burning oil!
Lubro-Moly products are simular to other products that you can find in most part stores. ANY & ALL of these products claim "WONDERS" that no other product can do. But if you mantain your engine MOST of these aren't needed.
I do use the 0W-40 Lubro-Moly synthetic in my race car engine as well as all of the cars in my household!

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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

After having spent 25 years in the oil/lubicants business (manufacturing/lab side), I still have to see a product (at whatever price) that will fix mechanical problems. Some can conceal the problems but will never fix it. I have seen engine go for 500,000mi without any failure with regular brand name dino. oils and others with 50,000 mi with major wear problems after using expensive synthetic oils. The reverse is also true.
Using a high detergent oil (normally solvent based) in an older engine is playing roulette. If an older engine is sludged-up, a high detergent oil will most likely dislodge particules that could block-off some smaller oil orifice. Then, big trouble happen. Solvent based detergent will reduce oil pressure and reduce the oil film coating internal components of the engine, which is required for proper protection during cold start where the high wear rate happens. If you ever decide to go that way, make sure you drastically reduce oil/filter change intervals for an extended period of time (mileage). Your oil leaks are caused by faulty gaskets/seals. Some additives could possibly plug those holes temporarily but those hole still exist. You can not cover-up/undo years of neglect with a few bottles of liquids.
Miracle oil, gas additive, oil additives, engine treatment is not a cocktail I'd serve to my engines. Most first quality oil and gasoline contain all the additives an engine require.
Miracle do not come in plastic bottles. Most of it is only money wasted.
JackD