The links did open to me....

I did ask him about his shifter but my bad English don't help...
Can anybody help me understand?

That was his reply via email:

Blueberry shifter is stil stock.
Switch between 1 and 2 just pull forward and back to 2 th and then switch and lock the 2th

:?

At a dead stop, put it in 2nd to get 1st. Then shift to 3rd when you want to leave 1st. Then quickly pull it back down into 2nd to hold 2nd. Then shift to 3rd when you want 3rd.

You would think a car that cost as much as these did in their day would have a better solution than this!

Regards,
Eric

__________________
89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected
93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C.
95 E420 "Benzer4"
92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG
87 300D "Benzer7"
87 300D "Benzer8"
87 300D "Benzer9"
87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer"
87 300TD "Benzer11"
06 E320 CDI "Benzer12"
05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A"
71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder"
74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C.
74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd.

Am gonna try other way... With other shifter..... When I make it ... I ll post it

Just started today the swap from manual to automatic ...

I bought a 722.357 from a 300td w124.

I decide to put a spring kit before starting and a new filter.
I went to a store that overhauls Mercedes gearboxes for and he heard my torque he said that it is not going to last....

He said that the problem is at the brakes and the pump and that ever the shaft will not hold...

He said that before some years he made on for a really bad merc using 722.3... Using parts from a v12 model.... I think he mentioned something about 3 speed parts....

He told that he can make it last....he said that I put it as it is and when it brakes I should get back to him

Have anybody heard anything about that?

Should I go with the oem oil... Or is there a better one?

Am really happy going with this swap

Sounds like some one talking about 722.1 and 722.0 transmissions (if you ignore the V12 comment)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

hey there

I just finished the swap from manual to auto

I am very very very happy with this change in my car... It's like having I new one.... Boost cars need automatic .... The boost gauge doesn't go down from 2nd to 4th....

I AM REALLY HAPPY

thanx for everything guys

I haven't full finished because I haven't connected the kickdown and the neutral switch.... But it works reaaaally fine

I used the full spring kit and shifts like hell...like a th400

BUT
there are some things I don't like and maybe u can help me

The car ALLWAYS start in first (that I like)
But shifts to Second really early in D mode 20km and in 2 mode it changes from 1 to 2 at 50km... About 5000... I thought that I can stay in first as much as I want.... Is that because the kickdown is missing

I have the throttle cable fully opened

Another problem is that I can't take off from 0 fast
I have a diesel gearbox with the diesel convertor...
With one foot one the brake and wot it goes only 1500rpm and doesn't go fast....
Do i need an other convertor?is that custom made or mercedes part?I saw a 124 at dragtimes going 1.7sec 60 feet with a diesel and 200km trap

What must I do to go 1.7sec 60 feet?

Btw I installed a b&m quicksilver shifter with rachet and works reeeallly BAD
Thanx for advance

1500 seems like a pretty low stall speed. Are you making any boost when you are power braking it? My stall speed is a bit over 1800 rpm. I can build about 6psi of boost power braking but i run a pretty small tirbo. It leaves really strong but runs out of steam pretty early. A looser converter should help you get the turbo spooled but there may be improvements in spark timing and fueling that could help too.

__________________

90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

No way I can have true boost under 3000...

I ll try different timming but I don't think that I can launch with 1500... It has 1100 idle

How can I have a higher stall?
I tryied to launch with neutral and 3000rpm and then put D.... I starts better but I thing that I will not be able to do that a lot of times... I think it's gona brake....

Does anybody know a higher stall?had anybody tried to add a trans brake?i saw that turbobandid did use a transbrake but he changed it with nitrous

Please Help

You will need to have the tq converter gone through. I would shoot for at least a 3k stall at full load. You would need to know about how much power you can make at this rpm full load. If your turbo is really lazy you might need to stutter box it to build boost earlier.

Where can I find a converter like that?
At 3000rpm it would be great
What do u mean stutter box?

You will have to have the converter done at a shop that changes the stall on them. I had one done years ago that is about 2500 rpm with my engine but that is a lot more torque down low. Every engine is different on what they need to do. There are tons of converter shops in the U.S.
The stutter box or secondary rev limiter is where you shut your spark plugs off on a rev limit set at a lower rpm than your standard one. This allows you to build boost with the throttle wide open without pushing through. It limits engine output.

Something like the launch control ...

So I have to make a new converter.... Ok
I launch reving in neutral and then D .... I know this is bad but I think that power brake is bad also...

Anyone can help me with the 1st gear problem?can anyone tell me how can I keep 1st as much as I want?

Did anyone try the line lock?

Really thank u guys

The bad news is that no one in Greece open the converter

I found to buy a 500 converter that has higher stall and we will see what happens

i think fixing the kickdown switch can fix the 1st gear problem, you can wire it to toggle switch.
You said that if you brake and wot it only goes to 1500rpm does your launch control activate at 1500? i once tried to set launch control at 2500rpm but only got a massive wheel spinning at launch but that with supercharger, when i finish my turbo conversion i will try it again.
You can search for Trans Brake option but don't know if anyone tried on mercedes gearbox

__________________
W123 - M111+Turbo

Thanx every body...what is the toggle switch?