|
|
|
#31
|
||||
|
||||
m119.960 is the early r129 only tall deck block.its a ke-jet engine. same deck height as a m117. ive read you can use a m117 front cover and conventional distributor. the fuel distributor is actually the same part number as the 5.6 m117.
(BELOW) i don't think the early w140 420 and 500se/sel were ke-Jet but i could be wrong.they are low deck though. As far as i know ke will run like a k jet with computers removed but ignition is a whole nother story. k-jet m117 is going to be my next learing experience it looks like. shame they really dont make any power.its a really a shame i will probably end up throwing a sbc in it when it want it to be really fast and cheap. And it will get the same mileage and 350 hp. Last edited by rwd4evr; 08-25-2016 at 12:07 AM. |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
I too came to like the simplicity and bulletproofness of early K-jet systems, the ones with no electronics. Intake manifolds are very different between K-jet and EFI systems. I don't know if there were low deck M119s fitted with K-jet. And the K-jet intake manifolds of the taller deck engines won't fit on the smaller deck ones, because the distance between the heads is narrower.
|
#33
|
||||
|
||||
......and now back to our regularly scheduled nonsense.
i ordered a slave cylinder rebuild kit and the cylinder is soaking in vinegar right now. hopefully it will clean up with a brake cyl hone but since it wont i'll probably fill the pit marks with jb weld then hone it again. it actually works pretty well, i have jb weld currently in master and slave cylinders in "sophia" my 64 220b fintail and they have nothing to do with her not moving. fuel tank needs to be cleaned and the reverse arm needs to be welded back on the shifter. once it does a burnout(side ways since the rear control arm or subframe is bent toeing the tire out about 10 degrees) and runs through the gears then i'll steal the subframe and diff from the wrecked 280slc and hope i can weasel it through inspection to be registered antique in delaware so it never needs to be inspected again and i can throw every bit of weight out except bare minimum legal equipment and defrost/ heat. Who says you cant drive a race car on the street? |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
I'd have a look at early 90's GM DIS ignitions ( they came in 4 and 6 cyl , not sure about an 8 but you could use 2 of the 4 systems ) . These only need a crank signal and usually have a limp home spark advance curve built in.
Early 90's Ford Ranger 2.3 / 2.5 with dual spark had a similar system from what I recall. |
#35
|
||||
|
||||
ive been searching for a LSD rear for a bit now and i'm not certain but i could possibly use the 3.46 LSD from a w140 320se in a c107 case but thats pretty hard to find. The 2.47 in the 560sl's i have wont due with that gear and wont even bolt in without changing the guts into a gen1 case(i think that would work though). So after much searching for 3.46 lsd on google this popped up.
05 06 Pontiac GTO Rear Differential with Rear Suspension 3 46 Ratio 2407 | eBay its from a pontiac gto, this particular one is for a 05-06 but the 04 is slightly different and uses the same exact size flexdisc as a r/c107. if you click on this link it is remarkable how damn near identical the suspension design is, to a designed in the 60's w114/115 r/c107. A guy i know has a gto of this era so im going to take some measurements. does anyone have a 560sl rear axle out to measure the cv joint bolt pattern and outer diameter? man if they are 108 mm cv with a 94 mm bolt pattern i will ****! the mounting bolt location and even the mount coming off the rear cover is so similar that modifying a subframe to bolt it in wouldnt be that hard. Then you have a dana LSD center section with tons of gear options and it will take some serious power too. stock is 3.46 and ive found them for 350$!! Last edited by rwd4evr; 08-26-2016 at 02:52 AM. |
#36
|
||||
|
||||
in the pics above its a little hard to see with those loose plates sitting on top but the diff mounts are so similar. hell it almost looks like the whole subframe would bolt in to a slc or 114. but really just moving the mount plate up a bit looks like it would be pretty straight forward. may have to shorten the drive shaft a little too. i cant wait to get some measurements off the gto. here is the gto and r107 (blue plugs) for comparison. i already talked to the driveshaft shop and they said they can make axles to fit any diff to any hub. im hoping they dont need to.
|
#37
|
||||
|
||||
which one is which?
|
#38
|
|||
|
|||
I had looked into something similar for a R129 project.
Late 80's / 90's Ford T bird / Lincoln / some Mustang / Explorer Sport Trac have IRS . These came in 7.5" and 8.8", with some Mustang and Explorer using aluminum 8.8 housings. Parts from a solid axle 8.8 appear to interchange. Cars had a low spline count axle, trucks more. There is a very wide range of ratios for the 8.8 and limited slips are everywhere. (If you look at the axle tag on the door, a letter + number is a 99.9 % sign it is limited slip , two numbers will be an open axle. The metal tag is usually rusted off the diff, if it exists, 3L45 is LSD , 3.45 is open. The stock inner Ford joint is a tri pod type , The Drive Shaft Shop ( DSS ) can make axle flanges to convert to bolt on CV's. The trick would be to find a stock MB axle bar of the proper length to minimize custom parts. |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
The inner CV joints that were used in 86 and later V8 cars have a 102mm bolt circle. However, the 6 cylinder (300SE, 300SD, 350SD) W126 cars used the CV with a 94mm bolt circle.
|
#40
|
||||
|
||||
Nice! Thanks frank. Are those w126 axles the right length? Actually I think they may need to be a little shorter, so do w123 have the 94mm? I'm guessing they are a bit shorter.
|
#41
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#42
|
||||
|
||||
I checked out the clutch slave after a few days in the vinegar and I wouldn't say it was "clean" but definitely better than it was. It had a few significant low spots when you ran your finger through it. So here is my refined method of repairing pitting and has even worked on plated cylinders. after multiple master,slave cylinder and even a brake caliper repair that hasn't had any failures.
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I may be a crazy person driving around with jb weld in his hydraulic cylinders but if you do this and don't do it right and it doesn't work don't blame me. If it's a 24$ cylinder replace it. I have 350$ three piston girlings I repaired and this slave is 145 shipped. First get it clean of any oils or brake fluid. You will need some thin sheet metal, a hose clamp that will get smaller than the cylinder to be repaired, a pair o needle nose plyers and a chisel about a half or 3/4 inch wide with nice machined sides worked great as a kind of spatula. Plus a wheel cylinder hone. I first used beer cans but they are a little too thin. This time I used a b-12 chemtool fuel system cleaner can/bottle thing. It's like a can with a twist top very similar to a seafoam one. I cut the bottom off with a dremel cutoff wheel them cut a piece about four inches long from the barrel that was left. Next time I may leave it a little longer. The I split the tube I had now being carefully to cut it straight. The reason for the cutoff wheel is to not distort the edges of the metal. I then carefully sanded all the edges flat and block sanded the edge that would be on the outside. Next you grab the side not carefully sanded to have a straight edge, and coil the split tube up by holding it with leather work gloves and twisting the pliers. You want to bend a piece of the inside part 90 degeee so you have a good spot to regrab it to wind it up. Hold it and twist the inside piece so it's basically a long wound up spring small enough to fit inside the cylinder and put the hose clamp on it.hit the cylinder with the hone a little but don't go crazy and use some brake fluid. Brake clean and wipe out the cylinder a couple times to be sure it's good and clean. Then mix up your jb weld. I put a piece of pipe cleaner in the bleed and input hole so no stray jb ended up in them. Then put some jb weld in the low spots you have found. Insert the coiled up piece into the cylinder past where any damage is and release the hose clamp. You can now grab the inside of the coil by the edge you bent and turn it in same direction as winding it up. It wil spin around in the cylinder and smear the jb weld all around. The straight edge you made will push it down into the low spots and also keep it very thin on the rest which is key to it not bieng a nightmare to get to a perfect smooth surface. After spinning it around a couple times, Turn the coil so the straight edge just passes your biggest problem area because it will leave a little extra in the overlap area. After about an hour I grabbed the coil again and wiund it till the thing came loose from the jb weld and spun it a couple times. I left it in there for a couple hours. I took it out now by winding it up while pulling also. You don't want to let a corner scratch your jb surface so be careful I would test this removal out before any jb is put in so you have an idea what it's gonna do. Then I used the chisel and carefully inserted it in and making sure it stayed flat I scraped the wall all the way around to remove any heavy areas on the undamaged parts. There will be a nice bead of jb left on the side of the chisel you can carefully push back in low spots, like it's a spatula, if you screw it up. I let it sit a couple more hours now. I lubed the hone stones with wd but brake fluid will work to, then gave it a quick hone to get some extra jb off the walls before it's fully set. You could maybe get away with not doing this but gets it gets Back close to the original metal in the good parts way easier. But don't go too far yet. After it sits at least 14-24 hours go back and hone it again with brake fluid always keeping the hone moving in and out to get a even surface. All that should be left in there is what is filling in damaged areas. Last edited by rwd4evr; 08-28-2016 at 08:21 AM. |
#43
|
||||
|
||||
The video won't load. You can see hou the straight edge scraped the excess away.
|
#44
|
||||
|
||||
M110 powered and v8 powered manual trans slave cylinder is identical except for the pushrod is an inch or so longer. 100$ difference. What a bunch of horse ****. So when your asking yourself why this Mercedes part is so expensive, there isn't any reason. Because they feel like it.
|
#45
|
||||
|
||||
All finished honing the cylinder and it looks great. Smooth as a gravy sandwich😀 I can't find a spot I can feel the difference between epoxy and real iron. The only jb weld left in there is the one big spot you can see in this pic and a couple little spots. The rest is all nice clean iron. Ready for action! I hope the master is ok😁 got a brand new one in a parts car I just bought if not.
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|