Non resistor plugs like BP6ES will work. Platinum usually offer no value.

__________________
With best regards

Al

So far I have installed 5 chrome 14 inch bundt wheels and 5 215/65/14 H rated tires. Replaced both front shocks with the HD Bilstein ones, and replaced the sway bar links with new ones. Replaced the radiator expansion bottle, all the radiator hoses. Changed out the spark plugs and engine purrs now.

Car is at Fletcher Jones now for the subframe recall and tie rod links, as well as the fuel filter. Easier for them as I am old and don't have a lift.

But I checked out the A/C system briefly, it is needed as 115 degrees in the shade is normal for here in Lost Wages. No movement on the compressor magnetic clutch. I changed out the fuse, but there is still the A/C relay, the A/C temperature switch, the A/C vacuum switch and the A/C rotary switch on the dash.

What I was thinking of doing is putting 12V directly to the compressor magnetic clutch, it isn't so much that it is expensive, but looks like a very long and difficult job.

Any other ideas for the A/C system? I have a MB Maintenance Manual from April 1977 and with 991 pages they have squat on A/C service. My Chilton manual is equally lacking on A/C.

I need wiring diagrams to ring out the wires and se where I have voltage.

Help!

I can't help with the AC but I went though a similar thing with my SLC and the solution I arrived at was to make it run properly, open up the exhaust with stock manifolds, and advance the timing until I swap it. The biggest power gain was from tuning it up as at the end of the day we're talking about a 4.5L low compression SOHC engine that in my case has D Jet fueling. Beyond that I'm sure you could port the heads and manifolds like anything, swap cams, update the fuel and ignition, or spray it but there is not much aftermarket for this.

I don't feel like the restrictions are in the "low hanging fruit" like the air cleaner or exhaust plumbing unfortunately.

You can hot wire the clutch briefly to see if it's working by putting 12v but I would not make it a permanent hack.

__________________
With best regards

Al

I bought the MB factory A/C manual specific to 107s for $79 from eBay.

Priority s seeing if the magnetic clutch will work. If I have to replace the compressor then I might as well go to R134

I was thinking about this a bit more. I guess if I was really set on keeping my 450 bottom end I think the winning combo would be milled 450 D jet heads (if there is any difference between the K jet ones) with 560 cams and HEI distributor. Then use the D jet manifold to convert to megasquirt EFI and see what headers have the same port spacing and fit between the frame rails. Maybe ford 4.6 sn95 shorty headers could have new flanges put on. The issue with that is you then have to do a lot to an engine with no real aftermarket and minimal knowledge base on performance tuning.

Find GGR's posts as he had dome some tuning on the M117 using MS and a D-Jet intake manifold.

__________________
With best regards

Al

Any old hot rodders here?
Dodge Demon debuts with 840 hp, already banned by NHRA

The Demon’s list of performance bragging points is like none we’ve ever seen for a street-driving car. Here are just a few highlights:
•Fastest quarter-mile production car in the world, with an elapsed time of 9.65 seconds @ 140 mph
•World’s fastest 0-60-mph time for a production car, 2.3 seconds
•Highest-horsepower V-8 production engine, 840 hp
•Highest g-force acceleration of any production car, 1.8 g
•First-ever production car to lift its front wheels at launch, setting a world record wheelie at 2.92 feet, as certified by Guinness World Records
•The Demon is officially banned by the National Hot Rod Association (NHRA) for being too fast to run at a drag strip without a cage

Saying it " . . . is officially banned . . . " is a bit of a stretch. It was " Banned " before anyone ever thought of building it because the cage rules were in place long ago.

A detail on the MB motor, the build link listed shows the bottom of the lower intake manifold plenum being extended downward and the upper half shortened so the top of the lower intake could be raised. ( See pics ) This was done to reduce the restriction below the throttle body.

My CIS is working GREAT, so I assume the same "bottom of the lower intake manifold plenum being extended downward and the upper half shortened" could be done on a CIS manifold.

Getting another air cleaner housing for dual snorkel, going to cut out 90% of the perforated metal that holds the air filter in shape.

Just had the exhaust upgraded to 2.5 inch dual Magnaflow cat converters and a 2.5 inch dual in/out Borla stainless muffler. I was surprised when the muffler shop said the cat converter had already been upgraded to dual 2 inch in, dual 2 inch out, had to be a while as the 3 feet of cheap steel after the converter was rusted, the only rust on the car.

Combined with my K&N air filter and the newer (1883) air cleaner assembly, the car definitely feels quicker. Not a super car but slightly faster guessing 0-60 in about 8+ to 9 seconds. Guessing about 10-15 HP more, not huge but easily done.

Next project is polishing a CIS intake upper manifold and adding depth/ volumn to the plenum like the Carobu engine. Every thing I have read is the stock manifolds were probably too big for the size of the intake valve.

So not too much porting, just knocking off anything that looks like an major obstruction and polishing the runners.

The hard part will be cutting out half an inch in the connections between the upper and lower manifolds while still being able to use the stock rubber connectors. Plus I don't weld aluminum, so I have to find someone at a reasonable price.

Once the polishing is done I will contact Carobu and see if they can do their magic to the manifolds.

Also got the A/C working, nothing after replacing 3 fuses, replaced 2 relays and the compressor clutch worked. Muffler shop tested the system, no R12 but no leaks either.

I had 8 cans of R12, they used 3 to fill the system. Actually had to turn down the A/C on the 45 minute drive home as it was COLD, although only about 80 degrees here in Lost Wages.

Still I will allow me to drive when it get over 110 degrees. Then I will keep an eye on the water temp. Normal is 180 degrees at freeway speeds. Gets to 200 when I let it idle for 20 minutes.

Copper non resistor sparkplugs always everyone says. I haven't found one car ive bought that runs right with anything else in them so far. The valve size is comical really, the 5.6 alloy block heads valves are bigger but i can't recall the sizes of the top of my head. Look for a parts car rotting in someones yard, driveway, ECT. I've picked up cars with complete drive trains as low as $400. You may score a fairly low mile engine you can work on and modify while yours is still driving. Not sure how much you can mill the heads for compression with the overhead cams. If you can find a euro spec car awesome. w108 or early w116 4.5 cars are a source too(they rot just as much or more out here. The early pre 75 I think U.S. d jet cars have the better cams from the 3.5 motors. A 5.6 will drop in with the trans too, just hibernate your original engine(and speedometer cluster)till your ready to sell.

__________________
WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com