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#31
11-15-2002, 09:54 PM
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An update. Everything is now apart in the garage; M.B.Doc sent me a box of pistons and valves that look quite functional and will greatly reduce the cost of this rebuild (Thanks M.B.Doc). I dropped the head off today at the machine shop to surface the head and replace the valve guides. The head had some minor burn spots that I hope can be milled out while still keeping the head within specifications. The minimum head height is 129.97mm, which provides only 0.4mm of material that can be removed.
It was surprising; the machine shop had a 2.3-16 head finished and ready for another customer to pick up. I thought that Robby had the only other 16 valve in the area. Most of the other required parts have been received so I should be able to start putting it together by the end of next week.
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Jim Villers 190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find" 
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#32
11-16-2002, 09:02 PM
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I found a company that has the head stud kit in stock to install studs in the block to hold the head down. If you are milling the head and increasing the compression, I would stud it to help with premature head gasket failure.
Click here to see them.
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Benzmac: Donnie Drummonds ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN MERCEDES SPECIALIST 11 YRS
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#33
11-16-2002, 09:27 PM
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Donnie ... I am not shaving the head to raise compression but to clean up after a set of burned pistons. There has been too many good comments concerning head studs on this forum not to install them.
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Jim Villers 190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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#34
11-18-2002, 02:35 PM
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Jim,
With the exessive blow by I would consider having your cylinders honed to make sure they are round. Also make sure the machine shop puts a little groove at the edge of the combustion chambers that matches the cylinder bores. That way you can put a little copper wire in the groove to act as an o-ring to seal the combustion chamber. Deshroud the valves and smooth out any sharp areas in the combustion chamber and do the same to the pistons. Very important to limit detonation. Is your head gasket a multipiece steel gasket or something else? If it is not steel, get Cometic Gaskets to make you one. They are fast and do good work and priced right. Their is much, much more to do, but I do not know what you have planned. Jeff AMA Superbike and Supersport Engine Builder
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#35
11-18-2002, 05:31 PM
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Jeff ... I feel comfortable with the condition of my cylinders, they still have the original honing marks.
The excessive blow by was caused by the burned pistons and "welded" second compression rings. I am planning to use a stock head gasket but hold it down with studs. The head is at the local race shop and I will check with him about smoothing up the combustion chamber. This head looks like it is a very smooth, flow through, hemispherical chamber with the spark plug in the center. Coxworth Engineering in England designed this head solely for this engine and car. In all honesty, I am not building a race engine, just a daily driver with some get up and go.
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Jim Villers 190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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#36
11-21-2002, 06:48 AM
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Re: importance of intercoolers
Quote:
Superchargers generate very little specific heat and add even less to the charge temp - 7psi is possible without intercooling. Turbochargers generate far more heat for three reasons... 1) the other end of the impeller shaft is connected to the exhaust manifold 2) they spin faster (generally) speed=heat 3) the constant and quite sudden acceleration and deceleration of both the turbine and compressor causes heat generation. A supercharger from something like a CLK should incorporate a bypass valve (similar in operational practice to a dump or blow-off valve on a turbocharger system).... Jim... As an add on to the supercharger system, and to compliment or replace the intercooler, may I recommend the ERL water injection kit? Injecting water into the charge reduces the charge temp, and significantly reduces the chances of Detonation....
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#37
11-21-2002, 08:51 AM
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UK 2.3-16v .... I have not really considered water injection because I have not thought that I was in the range that it was necessary. Pleas provide a link to the site so that I can read up on water injection.
According to the Eaton Specs, I expect a maximum 70-100 degree increase in air temperature. If this appears to be a problem, my first thought would be to bring in an outside air source or to install an intercooler. The car is my daily driver and it rolls in and out of boost all of the time. The increass in low end torque for normal driving is the wonderful feature of this supercharger.
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Jim Villers 190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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#38
11-21-2002, 09:31 AM
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Richard Lamb at ERL virtually invented Water Injection for Road Cars here in the UK...
Incidentally, Water Injection was invented by the US Air Force during WWII (see, you lot can invent useful things sometimes  ) to allow piston aero engines to still give useful power at very high altitudes in the pacific theatre (or, it might be a Brit invention, can't remember now)They used to inject pure methanol for power, and use water injection at high altitude because Oxygen is a component of water, and we all know what petrol combustion engines like? Erm, anyway, Richard Lamb seriously knows his stuff - and is worth listening to/reading from. Someone I knew ran a supercharged Opel Manta 2.0 litre with an old Eaton blower at 7psi, just single point water injection to keep the charge cool, and saw around 180bhp (up from 100bhp) with no other mods. Without water, it gave about 145bhp. Well worth it, especially when you consider its far easier to install one of these kits, than it is to mount a ruddy great intercooler. They cost about the same as well http://www.aquamist.co.uk/ Happy hunting Dunk
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#39
11-21-2002, 10:13 PM
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I added alchohol-water injection to my engine after I blew the head gasket...It completely took out any hint of spark knock.
No the engine runs really good and strong in the upper end of the boost. The best pumps and set up I have ever seen is to use the factory washer bottle used for the windscreen. I could tell you how to set it up with ease.
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Benzmac: Donnie Drummonds ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN MERCEDES SPECIALIST 11 YRS
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#41
11-21-2002, 10:42 PM
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Benzmac! When did your gasket blow? Just recently?? Remember, I'm still deciding about which gasket to go with and if you blew your stock gasket with an o-ringed block then I'm going to have to consider getting a different one made. Oh, what kind of material wire did you use and how far does it stick out of the block? I'm planing on using .030" stainless wire sticking out about .010". That should give a nice tight seal. What do you think?
I'm also going to install water injection on mine. What kind of pump are you using? Later!
__________________
87 190E EVO II Turbo
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#42
11-22-2002, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
And if your pump burns out, and you don't know about it, then you're open to a big bang!
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#44
11-25-2002, 08:51 AM
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I would just like to confirm Daniel's post on Donnie's thread. The ARP head studs for a Ford Pinto 2300cc (part number 151-4202) are perfect for a 16 valve. The "Ford price" was $95 while the Mercedes price on another site was $190. Go figure.
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Jim Villers 190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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#45
11-25-2002, 12:58 PM
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Yep, that's one thing I learned through my engine rebuild. When I called a company about some parts, I simply stated that I was rebuilding a 4 cylinder 16 valve engine and needed such and such a part. More than once, the price was higher after I said "Mercedes". Man, I hate it when people do that!
Benzmac, let me repeat my question because I really would like to know about how your headgasket blew. When did it happen? Just recently?? Was that before you installed head studs? Remember, I'm still deciding about which gasket to go with and if you blew your stock gasket with an o-ringed block then I'm going to have to consider getting a different one made. Oh, what kind of material wire did you use and how far does it stick out of the block? I'm planing on using .030" stainless wire sticking out about .010". That should give a nice tight seal. What do you think? I'm also going to install water injection on mine. What kind of pump are you using?
__________________
87 190E EVO II Turbo
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