Is Pulling Out Rear Hub A DIY Job? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gsxr · #16 06-09-2003, 10:13 AM

Since they are pretty thick, my next guess would be a Sawzall or saber-saw (jigsaw) with a good bi-metal, fine-tooth blade. A 4 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel might work also.

Maddog · #17 06-09-2003, 10:54 AM

A grinder with a cutting wheel.

chupr98 · #18 06-17-2003, 12:59 AM

Hi Guys,

I finally cut the rear dust shields after I decided not to pull the hub. I do not have any air tool therefore I bought a lot of cut-off wheels for my Dremel. I went through about 10 wheels per side. Many of you have helped, thanks again

Chris Martens · #19 06-18-2003, 06:53 AM

Peter,
Dave,

I'm a bit late on this, but it is an interesting topic...

Pulling the rear hub IMHO does not necessarily destroy the bearing. Look at Jack's homepage, where he shows the exchange of the rear bearings at his W201 and the tools he made himself.

But I'm with you, Dave, it won't be a fun job

My right rear bearing does make some funny sounds and the estate has a special bearing (larger)

Concerning the rims, there are lots of "stock 15-inchers" with different dimensions depending on year and modell. The only way to be shure is try and error or the electronic parts catalouge (maybe at the dealer).

You can read my front brake conversion story, that is not yet finished. My stock 15" rims from the 1989 300TE did not have enough clearance for the front 400E-calipers! I had to buy rims for the 300E-24 or E320 or E400.

Furthermore, the control arms did not fit. I had to buy new ones with the welded supporting joint, as shown in Dave's (again: wonderfull) table part no. 124-330-34/35-07

So far I have new (used but nearly new) calipers and disks, new control arms (installed), used splash shields waiting for new colour, used 7x15" rims waiting for new tires.

Since most of the stopping work is done by the front brakes, I'm not planning to modify the rear brakes. The estate already has got larger calipers than the sedan.

bis denn,
Christian

1989 300TE

gsxr · #20 06-18-2003, 09:02 AM

Chris,

Good points - thanks for the info! Now if AltaVista's translation tool would get more than the first 3 paragraphs of that German brake upgrade page...

I've heard about the control arm clearance problem before, where the ball joint support area contacts the brake rotor & splash shield up front.

Peter, did you have any trouble with that? I can't remember... I'll be ticked if I have to source used control arms, then "rebuild" them with Sportline bushings etc like my stock ones are! Hmmm.

Regards,

Chris Martens · #21 06-18-2003, 09:18 AM

Dave,

>Now if AltaVista's translation tool would get more than the first 3 paragraphs of that German brake upgrade page...

ups, try this "translation", the rest of the text is only struggeling with the german TUeV

The text is not pure technical but with lots of little jokes, that will be gone after an automatic translation, sorry.
If you have any questions, just ask!

>I've heard about the control arm clearance problem before, where the ball joint support area contacts the brake rotor & splash shield up front.

It will most propably look like on this picture:

left side, view from rear to front, old control arm and splash shield, "new" brake rotor with scratches... no way to mount the rotor!

>I'll be ticked if I have to source used control arms, then "rebuild" them with Sportline bushings etc like my stock ones are!

Sorry to say that, but you schould better be prepared. I was "not amused" when I discovered all the additional things that need to be changed for this mod.

bis denn,
Christian

1989 300TE

chupr98 · #22 06-18-2003, 02:22 PM

I had no clearance problem with 400E calipers and 22mm rotors. But I can see problem maybe with E420 25mm rotors because there is not much clearance left between the control arm and the rotor.

gsxr · #23 06-18-2003, 04:03 PM

Ah-HA! Maybe that's the problem... the 295x22 rotors clear the old control arms, but the 294x25 rotors do NOT! Hmmm. Damn, I might as well just order up a set of E420 control arms & get ready to install those too... **sigh** I think the cheapest I saw was ~$25/ea plus S&H, plus Sportline bushings (~$125 per set), plus ball joints... probably $250 all totaled up. At least I'll have a set of "old" control arms with near-new Sportline bushings & ball joints to put on another car, or sell on eBay... should recover some of my $$, probably at least half! Hmm...

Chris Martens · #24 06-26-2003, 05:16 AM

Dave,

>Maybe that's the problem... the 295x22 rotors clear the old control arms, but the 294x25 rotors do NOT! Hmmm.

I checked my rotors yesterday, they are 22mm (nearly new) and they did NOT clear the support joint

On the other hand, Rik (2phast) did this mod at his 190E 2.6 without any clearing issues at the "old" control arms.

Any other input on this???

bis denn,
Christian

1989 300TE

Maddog · #25 06-26-2003, 12:28 PM

I did the mod on my 86 190E without problems.

chupr98 · #26 06-27-2003, 03:15 AM

Anything to do with German model?

aldedmon · #27 06-27-2003, 11:14 AM

I/ve dont the read hub bearing on my 92 400E and getting the hubs off was a bit trick but NOT impossible. Don't know why the MB Tech's would be so squeemish about the job especially if they had the correct tools. Alls you do is back that big not about half way off the axle. Than place a brass or aluminum dowl of some sort on the center portion of the axle inside the inner diameter of the big nut(I placed the female end of a 6 in extension on the axle) on the end of the axle and hit it with an airhammer. The sheer speed and the vibrating effect of the airhammer breakes the hub a loose in no time. A better tool would be an air hammer jig fabricated with a point that would sit in that hole in the axle and have a collar on it that would prevent it from moving around and push the axle through. If I did this routinely, I'd rig up such a tool

chupr98 · #28 06-27-2003, 10:07 PM

Albert,

Were the bearings damaged the way you did it?

aldedmon · #29 06-29-2003, 01:35 AM

However the reason that I performed this procedure was because there is a ball joint of sorts that is part of the 5 link system(It is the lower most link and the attachment point is straight down to the ground). I had to remove the hubs to get at it, and although the bearings weren't necessarily damaged at the time, I nonetheless replaced them as insurance. i bought the bearing and toook them to an indie. He charged me 1 hrs labor for maybe 10 minutes work for punching out the old hub carrier bearing and putting in he new ones . You would be wise to check thi ball joint on yours, it cause "clunking" in the rear when you accelerate from a stand still

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