Sportline Installation Question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Phalcon51 · #1 06-24-2003, 12:49 PM

I'm planning to purchase a Sportline kit for my '86 300E in the next couple of weeks. Can anyone recommend a shop or mechanic to do the installation at a reasonable price? I live in Monrovia in So. Cal., near Pasadena. I'd be willing to drive up to about 50 miles.

Can any of the work be done by a DIYer to save a little money before taking it in?

Thanks,

Gary

ke6dcj · #2 06-24-2003, 05:47 PM

If you're doing the SportLine springs and don't have the proper tools, I would only install the front swaybars and front & rear dampers/shocks.

The rear swaybar is tricky- you have to loosen/drop the rear subframe.

If you're doing it right, you need to install the SportLine bushings as well. However, this needs either special tooling & a press, OR some ingenuity.

I would give Carl a call at BergWerks in Burbank, CA.
http://www.bergwerks.com

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

gsxr · #3 06-24-2003, 07:26 PM

I agree. The front sway bar is pretty easy. The rear sway bar is harder but not terrible, if you are a shadetree mechanic. Rear shocks aren't bad, but be careful up front with the struts. DO NOT attempt to do the springs without the proper MB plate-type spring compressor (Klann or SirTools). Front control arm bushings require spring removal. Rear subframe bushings require a special tool to press them in & out.

Quite a bit of labor if you're paying for it, IMO. The sway bars should be about 1 hour each by a competent shop. Springs should be about 1 hour front, 1 hour rear, with the proper tools. Front control arm bushings, I dunno, an hour or two at least. Shocks & struts, same thing. Rear subframe work will be several hours though. Hope this helps a little.

Here's some tips on the rear sway bar job, in case you attempt it yourself - you need a couple of hydraulic floor jacks:

http://www.meimann.com/docs/mercedes/Rear_sway_bar_install.pdf

Regards,

suginami · #4 06-24-2003, 10:19 PM

Check out Mr. MB Motors in Tarzana. I live in Diamond Bar, and it is 51 miles from my house.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=38339&highlight=enrique

gsxr · #5 06-24-2003, 10:22 PM

And when you're all done, order the "Sportline" badges for the front fender too!

But I think the Sportline shift knob is no longer available though - bummer.

JCE · #6 06-25-2003, 12:11 AM

The badge looks like this:

Click below to see how it fits on the molding strip on my 87300E. BTW, are you getting the Sportline kit and badge through Fastlane/PartsShop? I can look up the badge part number if you are interested.

Phalcon51 · #7 06-25-2003, 02:54 AM

Wow! Thanks for all the quick replys.

A couple more questions:

What should be a reasonable price to install the whole kit?

GSXR - sounds like you're talking about 10-12 hours for the job. Does that sound about right? I usually do all my own work, so I don't even know what a typical shop labor rate is these days.

I'd normally be willing to take this job on myself, but we just took in a 6 week old foster child and a recent rear ender has got my left hand and arm going numb, so I've kind of got my hands full right now.

If I decide to do some of it myself (likely the rear springs , front swaybars and dampers), will any of this work need to be duplicated to do the rest of the job, so that I'm not really saving any labor time? I don't have access to a press, and I really don't want to remove the rear subframe laying on my back, so I'll leave those more specialized/heavy duty jobs to a mechanic.

JCE - Yes, I'm planning to order the kit through Fastlane/Parts Shop. Here's the complete list I received from Phil back in November '02. Hopefully the prices are about the same:

300E 1986
124.030
WDBEA30D7GA189689

124 321 29 04 Front Spring 86-92 2 $77.00 ea

124 321 30 04 Front Spring 93-95 2 $77.00 ea

124 320 64 30 Front Strut 2 $145.65 ea

124 323 68 65 Front Sway Bar 1 $116.00 ea

124 323 45 85 Inner Bushing 2 $7.00 ea

124 323 51 85 Outer Bushing 2 $6.75 ea

124 330 06 75 Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit * 2 $81.00 ea

124 324 28 04 Rear Spring 2 $62.00 ea

124 320 23 31 Rear Shock Absorber 2 $93.00 ea

124 326 19 65 Rear Sway Bar 1 $109.00 ea

124 326 01 81 Bushing 2 $2.90 ea

129 351 14 42 Rear Sub-Frame Mounts 2 $28.00 ea

201 321 09 84 Spring Pad, Front 8mm 2 $4.70 ea

201 325 09 44 Spring Pad, Rear 8mm 2 $4.20 ea

201 817 13 20 Sportline Badge 2 $17.50 ea

Does this appear to be the complete kit?

Thanks again for all the help

Gary

Mike300ce · #8 06-25-2003, 08:24 AM

The springs aren't hard on the whole car, i have a 300ce and a friend of mine(mechanic) and myself hardcore DIYer did it all and changed the front brake pads in under 5 hours, the longest was the front first spring which was just under 2 hours then the next was the 2nd front spring, the back springs seriously only took like 1 hour all up. they are so easy, the best way to do them is

Note this was done on a 300ce(Australian delivery) the process may be a little different on your own car, and this is only to the best of my recollection.

1. jack up the car,
2. pull off the wheel
3. place a jack stand under it
4. undo the pivot joint bolt the is closest to the diff.
5. slowly lower the car a little resting the control arm on blocks until the load is taken off the bolt
6. slowly raise the car up, the control arm should still be resting on the blocks,
7. the spring should literally fall out
8. when you put the new one in you should check that you have the 1 bump shims, these are the little rubber spacers that separate the car chassis from the spring. they can lower the car up to an extra 16mm with out any ride difference.

The front springs are more difficult, I did not use spring compressors but my springs were H&R so they were about 55mm lower on the front and 47mm lower on the back so these processes may not be as easy for you as I have described.

Good Luck

JCE · #9 06-25-2003, 09:20 AM

Gary:

That seems to be the whole thing. I have the Sportline allignment specs when you get the setup installed (or they are in the archives, as well). I also installed some 15x7 ET 36 wheels, which widened the track a bit, and installed Yoko ES100 205/60 15 tires. It all comes together very nicely!

gsxr · #10 06-25-2003, 09:39 AM

Gary,

I would say a minimum of 8 hours for the FULL kit, from a shop that has done this before. The subframe bushings could be time consuming, especially without the special $500 tool. As a DIY, could be 10-15 hours, or more if you run into snags. Labor rates vary widely but I've typically seen $50-$75 per hour at independant shops, and $80-$120 per hour at the dealer. Probably less in rural areas, possibly more in a big city.

Note that if you install the 2 rear Sportline subframe bushings, you should also install the other 2 stock subframe bushings so all 4 are new. Also inspect the rear control arms & links (there are 5 per side) and replace any (in pairs!) that show signs of deterioration of the rubber. With over 100kmi, or 15+ years, there's an excellent chance you'll need at least some of those done (the torque strut is the worst, especially on 86-89 models.) Don't forget the rubber bushing at the bottom of the rear hub, where the lower control arm attaches to the hub.

Now, you don't need to do this all at once! You can do it in stages. I usually recommend the sway bars first (cheap & easy). Then do springs & shocks together. And finally do all the rubber bushings. Also inspect the steering linkages closely (tie rods, idler arm, etc). These are pretty cheap while you're doing everything else. I did all mine, it's nice peace of mind to know that everything is new and should be fine for the next 100kmi!

About re-doing labor, the only thing to consider is that some jobs require a dealer 4-wheel alignment. If you do things separately, you may end up needing 2 or 3 alignments instead of one. Make sure you ONLY get the alignment done at the dealer, to Sportline specs. MB's need a spreader bar and a lock pin for the steering box to be done properly, and almost no independant alignment shops will have a clue about that.

Tip on wheels: Get late model W202/203/208 (C- or CLK-class) 16-inch wheels. They are 16x7.0 ET37 and fit perfect, and the 205/55/16 tire size is perfect with no speedometer error! I have two sets and they're fantastic. You can find them for sale used & on eBay, a good deal is a set of four WITH tires for $400-$500. I saw a set go for $260 (new, with new tires) but shipping would have been nearly $200 as the guy had to pay Mail Boxes Etc to box & ship them (d'oh!)

Here's photos of my CLK and C280 Sport wheels:
http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/87_300D_white/new_wheelsL.jpg
http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/87_300D_white/snow_shoes.jpg

And here's a photo of that torque strut, old & new:
http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_stuff/rear_strut_arms.jpg

If you want even stiffer sway bars, get the Limo front and 500E rear, per this sheet:
http://www.meimann.com/docs/mercedes/124_swaybars.pdf

Good luck!

Phalcon51 · #11 06-25-2003, 07:18 PM

GSXR - As I recall at least several, if not all, of the rear control arms and links have bad rubber bushings. Can these bushings be replaced individually or do I have to replace the entire control arm/link in each case?

Are the bushings different if used with the Sportline kit?

I'm planning to replace all of the subframe bushings, front and rear control arm bushings, tie rod ends, idler arm, etc. Are there any special concerns with the Sportline kit as to the type of bushings or other parts?

If I wanted to replace all of the normal wear parts in the suspension/drivetrain/steering apart from what comes in the kit, what would that list consist of? (I'm already planning to replace the flex disks front and rear, as well as the driveshaft bearing)

Thanks again,

Gary

gsxr · #12 06-25-2003, 07:30 PM

You replace each of the worn control arms in the rear, the new ones come with the bushings installed. It is not cheaper to just do the bushings (and I don't know if they are available separately!). Also the new arms are stronger, as you can see in my photo above. Since you're doing everything else, and you don't seem overly concerned about cost, I would replace ALL the rear suspension links (5 per side), plus the differential carrier bushings (two rear, one each front - top & bottom), and the lower rubber mount in the hub where the outside of the lower spring link (control arm) attaches. That will take care of ALL the rear rubber items.

The bushings are the same with or without Sportline, you just want to replace any stock items that have a Sportline equivalent - rearmost subframe bushings, front lower control arm bushings, etc. Everything else just gets new stock stuff. Up front you'd need left & right tie rod assemblies, drag link, steering shock, and idler arm rebuild kit... plus two ball joints. I think that's about it.

el presidente · #13 06-25-2003, 07:31 PM

Phalcon51,

You're gonna LOVE IT when it's done

'91 300CE - Sportline Specs.

tkd_M119 · #14 06-25-2003, 07:54 PM

Installers:

Fiirst Choice: Bergwerks - Carl & Steve are really into modding up MBZs (they both drive modded MBZs) and would the most experience with the install

Second Choice: Mr MB Motors - Enrique is an excellent mechanic but I feel that he's much more of a "factory spec" guy.

Taken my car to both and both shops are excellent.

#15 06-26-2003, 05:35 AM

Ok, guys. I recently bought a 87 300D, it appears to have been well maintained, with $6k spent at the Benz Haus, Kingsport, Tn. in the last 2yrs. Suspension wise the P.O. had the 4 control links that get beat, replaced with updated ones, diff bushings replaced, "replaced the lower L/H bushing on rear A. frame??" And more, steering box replaced, etc. I plan to drive it a while, see what I think, check tie rods, keep an eye on the OEM cyl head, etc, and wear out the new MVX4's before putting money toward a full sportline install.

Too the point, what would be my best bang for the buck. The first thing I normally do on any newly aquired car or truck, is install sway bars with poly bushings, and I'm prepared to do that at present. I am rather confused, with all the sway bar options, sportline, 500, 600, etc. (Thanks for the sway bar PDF GSXR.) The shocks seem ok, but with 220k miles, and lacking the records from the first owner, I'm not sure about them, and wonder what other suspension items I should look at for replacement and/or upgrades?? Even if I do this in stages, don't I need to decide which springs, OEM vs. sportline, that I am going to run, prior to picking shocks, comfort vs sport? Like I said the MVX4's are almost new, but when they wear out, I would like to go with a OEM plus 1 wheel set, and full sportline, just not sure how best to get there. I do 99% of the wrenching, like nicely set up, tight, well maintained cars, but prefer to spend my cash on motorcylces, vacation and my 401k. lol Looking for the best trade off here.

Cheers, and TIA, Mack

PS: This car is really growing on me, but I may look for a base color, non-metalic car, and/or a wagon, as the titanium copper chips easily on the rocky Texas roads, is this Astro Silver? I'm too young, childless, and single for a wagon, but it makes too much sense!! Anyone have a white 603 powered wagon and sister they want to part with, o' the sister doesn't have to be white, I'm partial to Hispanic and Italian gals, lol