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  #46  
Old 08-03-2005, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drm184
When I did the first mock-up into the engine compartment, the best location was foward which made a front sump pan a must but I could never find one. This promped me to look for other options since the mounts and headers were a problem also. After cutting back the center part of the firewall I moved the engine back about 3". All your problems are gone, Chevy and stock mount points line up, header space opens up and you can now use a stock oil pan. With the engine now back 3" and a little lower I can now use a 3" cowl ind. hood scoop instead of a 4 1/2" unit. I`m putting all details into a how-to manual. For future ref. I would like to know where to get the front sump oil pan. drm184
Chevy II and Chevy Moza applications........both had front sump pans....try Jegs or Summit racing for pans with higher capacity than stock.

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  #47  
Old 08-04-2005, 08:26 PM
drm184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drm184
When I did the first mock-up into the engine compartment, the best location was foward which made a front sump pan a must but I could never find one. This promped me to look for other options since the mounts and headers were a problem also. After cutting back the center part of the firewall I moved the engine back about 3". All your problems are gone, Chevy and stock mount points line up, header space opens up and you can now use a stock oil pan. With the engine now back 3" and a little lower I can now use a 3" cowl ind. hood scoop instead of a 4 1/2" unit. I`m putting all details into a how-to manual. For future ref. I would like to know where to get the front sump oil pan. drm184
I`ve got first pics of the Chevy Benz build. Engine and trans is in. M.B. rear parts are out and new mounts are being fabed. Vette rear is ready to install. There are to many pics to be allowed to upload on this site ( They do not allow large uploads ) so if anyone wants to see the pics, E-Mail me at (drm184@bellsouth.net) and I`ll send them out. Be sure to put Chevy Benz in your title so I will know not to delete the mail. drm184
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  #48  
Old 01-20-2006, 04:50 PM
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steering: Original or converted to R&P?

how did you modify your steering setup?? BadBenz did a Mustang GT R&P steering. Are you applying the same concept on your project? Did you notch the crossmember to lower the engine some more?? Sorry, too many questions- I also e-mailed you for pics. I appreciate the help.
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  #49  
Old 01-20-2006, 06:42 PM
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Steering "update" might not be neccessary

From what I have heard (I've been researching the idea a bit), the stock steering might be adequate, at least it would be for a 123 series. I don't know why Bad Benz went ahead and put on a Ford setup, if only for quicker turns lock to lock. That just doesn't seem worth it for a car that won't ever produce sports car handling no matter what you do to it (though it can certainly be improved, as Bad Benz did with some of his other mods). Also, believe it or not, that stock MB rear end might be more adequate than you think.

You could ask Bad Benz guy yourself, but he probably won't respond to emails.
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  #50  
Old 01-22-2006, 12:13 PM
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I'm running some where up to 250 hp - and the stock MB rear end has had no problems...my dad and I had to install a rack and pinion (also from a Mustang GT - 2.5 turns lock to lock) to make room for headers, and I wanted to free up some weight - balance for the supercharger set up - the Mercedes steering is a bit more heavy than the rack and pinion set up - and the blower is not too heavy....

There is a guy here in town with a mid 80's 5 series and he is running all Corvette hardware - front to back - maybe I can track down some pictures....

good luck all!
Jake
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  #51  
Old 01-22-2006, 02:25 PM
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BF_JC230,

Could you please describe the way you fastened(bracket design) the Rack & Pinion to your crossmember?
Better yet, pics will be worth a million words(if you have any).. I appreiciate your help. You are right about the weight. When I pulled the pump form the driver's side yesterday, it felt 10x's heavier that the 86 Mustang GT R&P. Finally, what did you do to match the different sizes of tierods of the Mustang vs. MBZ. (The benz is smaller) Lastly, does the rack have to be straight from tierod to tierod? Or can it be pulled nearer to the crossmember ? thanks
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  #52  
Old 01-22-2006, 02:37 PM
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if it is not straight

it will change the geometry of the front wheels when turning. if is a small amount prob not a prob. the rack and pinion will not last as long as the mb orig equip. and the off center action is much quicker which is good or bad depending on how you look at it. it feels more lively but is also perhaps a little too sensitive at high speeds. (dont sneeze you will end up in the ditch)

tom w
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  #53  
Old 01-22-2006, 05:58 PM
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Has anyone converted to a rack and pinion?

there is a link to some of it - it was its first full summer last year - i intend to make new arms and pull the rack angle back more towards the center of the wheel for a larger turning radius - if you look at newer MBs and some other cars, the tie rod arm is angled back to keep the rack straight and well mounted but gets your steering pivot closer to the center...look at a old gen ML, so i need to make / moddify the arms, but keep the rack sweep straight....bump steer is the biggest enemy and the car has a little bit - but it is not bad...i figure between the lowering, wider wheels, and the rack set up it is great - but my dad and i want to improve upon it...new arms would help as the turning radius is no where near stock...but i love the feel of the rack, it is crisp, clean and steering is a dream....on the high way it is normal, the dimensions are close to a fox chassis mustang, and so far i have loved it - the system has about 5,000 miles on it....and no problems so far...

what i used was a bumpb steer kit that was straight and would have required drilling of the mustang spindles, but for me it was great because i just machined down a hole and did not have to ream out the correct angle to seat the tie rod - this system is very hot rod friendly...and the universals are all borgesson units, and there is a "carrier" bearing on the fire wall to send the double d shaft to the universals....

the whole system is mounted to the front cross member, and welded in solid....

the only trick my dad really busted out was in order to locate the bearing mount for the steering rod, he welded a large nut to a rod, and we fished it down the front of the frame to use a pre existing hole, once that was found the rest of the geometry was established with wood, and then translated...

good luck
Jake

Last edited by BF_JC230; 01-22-2006 at 06:06 PM.
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  #54  
Old 01-23-2006, 03:44 PM
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steering geometry and placement

thanks for the info. Now the question of location, location, location. Based on my mock up site, the rack is more likely to be mounted behind the crossmember- Unless the Euro w123 230 model has a different crossmember location than the US w123 coupe (280ce). Based on my calculations, it should be behind the c-member and should attach itself shaft to the original tie rod end location of the old system. Did you attach the R&P shaft to the original tie rod location?
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  #55  
Old 01-25-2006, 11:39 AM
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I have the rack mounted to the front - and machined new arms to mount the spindle the rack / tie rod with a straight bolt drop kit (tie rod replacment) for a fox chassis mustang...reason being is that my oil galley is in the rear...

Jake
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  #56  
Old 01-29-2006, 10:12 PM
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for what it is worth - i took the car out this weekend as we had pretty nice weather in Buffalo - and the w123 with home brew rack and pinion has about the same bump steer as my w203 230 Sport Sedan - just a smidge...but the w123 still has a poor turning radius as of right now...

Jake
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  #57  
Old 10-16-2006, 05:18 PM
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  #58  
Old 10-25-2006, 09:56 PM
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A2

How are you making out?
Jake
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  #59  
Old 11-29-2006, 02:27 PM
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Got the new front sump oil pan. Interior appointments are out to give way to tranny tunnel modifications. Then I need to custom make an engine mount system. To be honest , I HAVEN"T DONE A DAMN THING TO IT!! Thanks for reminding me that I have this 5 year project that I really need to finish coz, lots of people are wanting to do the same thing!! That's encouragement enough , you think??? Kidding aside, yeah the oil pan needs to be modified to be able to push the engine further back then mock fit the rack and pinion behind the crossover. That should end the mock in process. Thanks for the inquiry.
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  #60  
Old 11-30-2006, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a2aa View Post
Got the new front sump oil pan.
speaking of front sump chevy pans....
Took some time, but my 400HP 16v is in the engine bay. pics.

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