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#16
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R-4 Full Race Compound
Designed specifically for heavy-duty motorsports. The carbon based semi-metallic R-4 materials allow the pad to absorb tremendous amounts of heat and dissipate it at very even rate. Carbon Kevlar material warms up to race temperature quickly, which is quite helpful during restarts, and when track time is limited. When used with cast iron and steel alloy rotors, the R-4 compound requires minimal bed-in period. Throughout the entire heat range, the carbon kevlar material will give extremely consistent modulation and predictably. This is truly the most rotor friendly racing brake pad material ever. Good for road courses, oval track, rally, vintage racing, autocross, club events or professional racing events. R4-E Endurance Race Compound A carbon kevlar compound made to last a bit longer than the original R-4 compound. The R4-E compound is designed to endure higher prolonged temperature and still has pad life as long or longer than Porterfield R-4 do. This pad is great for club enduro events and applications where temperatures are at their maximum. R4-1 Vintage Full Race Compound Developed using knowledge testing in the vintage racing community. Optimum uses for the R4-1, under conditions where very high friction is needed with minimal warm up time and in applications where there is difficulty in maintaining sufficient heat with conventional race pad compounds. Widely used on vintage GT and formula cars the R4-1 is also gaining popularity in off-road and rally-cross classes. Great modulation, consistent pedal feedback and rotor friendly at all temperatures as with all the other Porterfield Carbon Kevlar compounds. R4-S High Performance Street and Autocross For high performance and heavy-duty street conditions. Perfect for prolonged everyday street use while also being capable of tolerating the most severe street use without any fade. Rotor friendly of course. The R4-S friction level will give you an impressive increase in stopping ability with very minimum pedal effort. R4-S compound has the absolute lowest noise and dust levels, far below OEM equipment or any other high performance brake material. Good for autocrossing, some drivers schools, solo events, and rally’s. The R4-S compound is available for virtually any vehicle sold in the US. We also offer the R4-S in pad sizes for competition type calipers that are used under street driven conditions. www.porterfield-brakes.com I am doing a group buy. See the group buy thread.
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#17
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Another cure for a soft pedal
Dunno if this applies to a C36, but I know the pedal feel improved in my 500E when I bled the ABS pump. FWIW
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"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss Michael 2014 E63S Estate 2006 SLK55 1995 E500 1986 Porsche 944 turbo |
#18
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How do you bleed the ABS pump separately? I always just used a pressure bleeder on the m/c and opened one caliper bleed screw at a time. But my one W124 has a significantly firmer pedal than my other 124 (or my sister's 124), regardless of bleeding or pad compound used. Wonder if that's the trick to pedal feel nirvana.
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#19
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Has anyone ever looks the option og upgrading the brake master cylinder.. (just throwing up any ideas here)..?
I wonder if that would take of the problem Since a lot of C43 owner has the same complaint as I do with their brake feel. And I drove CLK55 (W208) the brake feel is awesome. I do know that the use the same caliper and rotor, and different master cylinder. would brake booster play significant role in brake feel..??? Regardz,
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97 C36 ////AMG |
#20
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Quote:
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#21
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But what chassis would the donor booster (and/or master cylinder) come from?
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#22
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Quote:
I am thinking if it can be done, I'd like to try CLK55(W208) brake booster or master cylinder whichever more relevant to me.. I know there is one car, trying to fit a brake master cylinder from CLK55 into a C280... but I don't know if ever did that, since I never got a chance to follow up on that.. Regardz,
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97 C36 ////AMG |
#23
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Dave- the 500E had ASR and ABS, as such, it has a different ABS pump than yours, unless you have ASR as well.
Pure ABS W124's don't have a bleed-procedure other than a high-pressure bleed. ASR equipped W124's have a bleed-nipple on the rear back of the combo ABS/ASR pump. :-) neil 1st picture: 400E without ABS (lower right corner) 2nd picture: 500E with ABS/ASR lower right corner) |
#24
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Thanks, Neil- that clears things up a lot.
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#25
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If you were STRICTLY using your 500E for a track car, NOT onroad. I would think if you got rid of the whole abs system, you could stop way faster. Too many lines for that brake fluid to go through.
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#26
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I think a more accurate description would be that you would get much better pedal feel with the ABS disabled or removed. I know one race driver who prefers ABS shut off. Maximum braking occurs with a small amount of lockup - not enough to lock the wheel, but enough to trigger the ABS and make it "get in the way", as he described it. This might be even more true with sticky race tires. 99.99% of drivers are not skilled enough to feel this or benefit from it... I know I'm not (yet!). For us mortals, it's better to leave the ABS functioning.
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